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  1. #41
    Classifieds Super License Matt Clark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlesVsWorld View Post
    So, coming up with a 3 point plan of action for operation "5-pound turd in a 3-pound bag":

    2. Add a front roll hoop over the steering wheel
    Can you post some pics of the dash / front hoop area with the body off?
    If you redo the front hoop to go above the dash & then remove some of the lower dash, that should gain you a lot of room. That is how most FVs are. The existing configuration is giving up a TON of leg space for you. Just make sure it fits under the body.
    ~Matt Clark | RTJ-02 FV #92 | My YouTube Onboard Videos (helmet cam)

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    Regarding roll bar replacement - make sure you have a very qualified person design this as adding height changes the force on the frame that occurs when you get upside down, and those forces will come from all directions...

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  4. #43
    Member CharlesVsWorld's Avatar
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    Ok going to find someone who knows about these things to check my thoughts.

    But here is one version that fits under the bodywork, frees up more knee room and retains much of the original chassis. Main roll-over bar is also extended.

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  6. #44
    Classifieds Super License Matt Clark's Avatar
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    That is more like other cars, so that should be ok.
    All the tweaks (rollbars, seat, etc) in combination should get you a surprising amount of room, but it will be tight no matter what.
    ~Matt Clark | RTJ-02 FV #92 | My YouTube Onboard Videos (helmet cam)

  7. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Clark View Post
    That is more like other cars, so that should be ok.
    All the tweaks (rollbars, seat, etc) in combination should get you a surprising amount of room, but it will be tight no matter what.
    The forward roll bar braces can help or hinder shoulder clearance depending upon the angle. Some test fitting may be beneficial. Some upper frame rail triangulation and gussets may be useful with forward mounting.

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    I still do not think the front hoop is tall enough. You need to mock up the existing chassis with you in the car to validate your proposal.

    I do not think you should have bracing over your knees. Your knees should be up in this area. Forget with the original body work over your legs. It is giving up to much space a big driver needs.

    A tight fitting car is not really what you need as a new driver to this class and with probably not the best handling car. You need to be able to comfortably flail your arms and hands.

    Brian

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  10. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrh3 View Post
    The forward roll bar braces can help or hinder shoulder clearance depending upon the angle. Some test fitting may be beneficial. Some upper frame rail triangulation and gussets may be useful with forward mounting.
    Agree on all of this. The GCR has specifics about gussets.

  11. #48
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    Not mentioned before, but the forward main hoop braces will have 1/2" padding on them.

    Brian

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardingfv32 View Post
    Not mentioned before, but the forward main hoop braces will have 1/2" padding on them.

    Brian
    At least ...
    Steve, FV80
    Racing since '73 - FV since '77

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    AND.. there is no requirement that the braces be absolutely STRAIGHT. They can be 'curved as needed' .. and you can 'bump up' the dia if the curve need is too great ... and gussets can help A LOT in that regard.
    Steve
    Steve, FV80
    Racing since '73 - FV since '77

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  15. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardingfv32 View Post
    I still do not think the front hoop is tall enough. You need to mock up the existing chassis with you in the car to validate your proposal.

    I do not think you should have bracing over your knees. Your knees should be up in this area. Forget with the original body work over your legs. It is giving up to much space a big driver needs.

    A tight fitting car is not really what you need as a new driver to this class and with probably not the best handling car. You need to be able to comfortably flail your arms and hands.

    Brian
    My bold of Brian's comment. I don't see how you would possibly fit with the bracing as shown.

  16. #52
    Senior Member pacratt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardingfv32 View Post
    Not mentioned before, but the forward main hoop braces will have 1/2" padding on them.

    Brian
    All the FIA roll bar padding I've seen is 3/4"-1" thick.
    There's alot to consider while you're in pre-design...glad you're taking time to plan for safety as well as anxious to get out for the fun.
    Glenn

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    Quote Originally Posted by pacratt View Post
    All the FIA roll bar padding I've seen is 3/4"-1" thick.
    There's alot to consider while you're in pre-design...glad you're taking time to plan for safety as well as anxious to get out for the fun.
    Glenn
    SFI I see is also 3/4 minimum (I didn't look up the rule itself).

    http://www.rollbarpadding.com

  18. #54
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    I admit I haven't read all the posts, but did scan most of them, and something I haven't seen suggested is to move your headrest back, behind the main hoop; how far will be limited by the carb - I think.... This will give some additional room, though maybe not enough to solve your helmet clearance problem. The comment(s) about adding a higher front roll hoop are good suggestions especially since it will give your legs more room and will improve the ease with which you can extract yourself from the car, though it will likely also require a change to the body work. Lowering the floorpan is a bad idea in my opinion unless you have a steel frame to support it, because when, not if, you go off-track, the lowest part of the car is what will contact the track, rocks, etc. Also, I have successfully used 1/2" thick ethafoam for my seat pad and have not had any soreness issues; certainly thicker would be better, so perhaps you can get by with less.

    Something else worth mentioning - not shown in the photos you posted, is pedal position and pedal travel - both need to be taken into consideration for you feet placement which then directly relate to seating position and then helmet height. The suggestion(s) about checking out other cars is excellent so you can what others have done to deal with these challenges.

    Good luck.

    -Jim

  19. #55
    Member CharlesVsWorld's Avatar
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    Really enjoying all the bike-shedding discussion and contributions about the best way to go about this. I showed the plans to Ron Chuck and he suggested moving the lateral support bar up and adding more gussets and was generally supportive of the changes.

    Here is a modification in line with the suggestions of taller front roll bar. Only problem is it makes the bodywork completely unworkable - no way to pass that bar through the top. At a guess I would I have to chop it in half and have more fasteners in the middle? Would end up looking a bit "complicated".

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    Last edited by CharlesVsWorld; 04.25.25 at 11:36 AM.

  20. #56
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    If you think the comments being provided for YOUR benefit are "bike-shedding", then perhaps you really aren't interested in the input from existing racers of the car/class you are interested in joining. From what I have read, most of the comments are valid and useful and take time to type, which you apparently don't seem to appreciate.

    -Jim

  21. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by sabre1fv View Post
    comments being provided for YOUR benefit are "bike-shedding"
    Perhaps I misspoke - usage of the term bike shedding used to denote the back-and-forth over details, no discounting of information implied.

    Very much appreciative of everyone's contributions, interest in my project and experience. Can't think of a more positive/supportive group to converse with.

  22. #58
    Senior Member pacratt's Avatar
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    Just a thought, regarding fitment of the cowl...
    Perhaps sliding it forward until the front hoop & braces are inside...trimming the front until it fits to the nose...then extending the rear with new glass to meet the tail.
    Of course I'm simplifying and going on ALOT of assumptions based on the little I see here.
    I had to do what I just described on a vee of my own for the very same reasons - fitting around a taller front hoop.
    Glenn

  23. #59
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    Your images of potential changes are very nice, however they may not represent how you will really fit . Consider removing the steering support area, main hoop forward bracing while temporarily leaving the hoop. Work out changes with some cheap tubing (emt conduit) until you are most comfortable. Reconsider bends in the main bracing and low rearward bracing to the removable element.
    Have fun and go racing

  24. #60
    Member CharlesVsWorld's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pacratt View Post
    sliding it forward until the front hoop & braces are inside...trimming the front until it fits to the nose
    Ooh yea, I get it. Definitely a better idea than chopping it in half, thanks.

  25. #61
    Member CharlesVsWorld's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrh3 View Post
    Work out changes with some cheap tubing (emt conduit)... go racing
    Yes! Another great idea. A trip to the homeless despot is in my near future...

  26. #62
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    Default Bike Shedding

    Bike shedding is an interesting term. Is this something you learn in engineering school?

    I learned something today!

    Brian

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