Fitting the standard Flagtronics FT200 in a formula car

[douglap1]

As the title says, this is about fitting the standard FT200 unit in a formula car, and is not intended to be another Flagtronics bitch forum (though I certainly have a bunch of complaints myself).

Anyway, it sounds like the FT-RD formula car version is a bit of a PITA to install in addition to the useless extra cost, so I'm thinking it would be better to install the original FT200 if it will work in my Van Diemen RF01.

I know this has been done in an FE2 car, as Alastair McEwan had installed the FT200 in his FE2 car before he sold it. Unfortunately, I never looked closely at it to see how it was done, and don't know where his car is now.

The Flagtronics web site is no help at all. I downloaded their product manual thinking it would have a dimensional drawing of the FT200, but no, the manual was no help at all.

If someone out there has an FT200 mounted in a formula car, please post us some photos, with maybe some major dimensions.

Thanks for any help.

[CGOffroad]

This is the mounting location I have elected in an FE2. My pictures won't show any detail of the mounting bracket I made, but will show the location. I used a piece of aluminum strap that was about as wide as the base of the FT unit and bent it in a vise to make it fit my mounting points.

I opted for the FT to be off center just a bit because I am concerned the FT may interfere with interpreting my shift lights on the steering wheel. I have not powered the unit on yet, so I don't know how bright the thing is going to be. The other benefit of offsetting it is that I can adjust my left hand onto the upper portion of steering wheel and partially block my view of the FT if the thing is as bright as my rain light !!

I did have to use a die grinder and take a little of the fiberglass away from my shock cover. The air deflector is painted black and you can see where there is a little black paint on the shock cover itself. Where that black paint is under the air deflector has been removed to allow the wiring to run over the metal pipe and under the shock cover. The two connections that come into these ports are actually quite stiff. It may be possible to heat this stuff with a heat gun and gently convince it to bend in an area where needed. But, with my location, the wires can run straight from the back of FT and don't need a bend for a good distance.

There does appear to be a good bit of wiring with the unit. But, I wouldn't say it is completely ridiculous. The AIM FSW4 had some fairly long leads that I don't use and had to find a way to coil them up and out of the way. I am not that concerned with the amount of wiring on the FT.

I place my AIM GPS antenna under the shock cover and magnetically stuck to frame of car. I am gonna try and mount the GPS antenna for FT in the same area and hope it works through the fiberglass shock cover with no issue. I really don't want to have to hang this thing out in the wind somewhere. If it does have to be external. The antenna is probably going back next to where the master switch is. The FE2 side panels have a flat area there that I think will be a decent place to put it.

[924RACR]

I used the full unit in my P2; it's an SE1/DB1 cockpit. As you can see, it fit nicely just over top of my wheel, on a small aluminum extrusion that made a ledge for it to sit on. Used it like this for the whole 2024 season and Runoffs.

The stiffness of those wires out the back may have been the biggest pain; in addition to needing to cut a notch in my original carbon dash to pass them through (not a big deal), placing the unit to allow them to go that way was mildly annoying. I would've been happier if they were more flexible. On the plus side, they are at least robust.

I found the unit to work extremely well for visibility in this location, and no worries about interference with shift lights or any other warning lights.

I put the dash on a small steel strip I added in one relatively unused NACA duct at a body part line, to allow it to mag clamp into place and not get in the way of removing bodywork. That worked great, except the adhesive holding the antenna to the internal magnet failed, and I have to duct tape it together.

[Mike B]

RF99, mounted to the rectangular brace with zip ties, GPS on top of the dash with velcro:

[CGOffroad]

Lengthy thread, but go on page 3 and look for post #89. There is a link on this post that shows mounting in another car.


https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/sho...t-system/page3

[alangbaker]

Lengthy thread, but go on page 3 and look for post #89. There is a link on this post that shows mounting in another car.


https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/sho...272#post670272

That link is to post #4 of this thread...

[Rick Iverson]

Gray:

Will you please explain the air dam (wickerbill) on the coachwork? Very interested to know.

This is the mounting location I have elected in an FE2. My pictures won't show any detail of the mounting bracket I made, but will show the location. I used a piece of aluminum strap that was about as wide as the base of the FT unit and bent it in a vise to make it fit my mounting points.

I opted for the FT to be off center just a bit because I am concerned the FT may interfere with interpreting my shift lights on the steering wheel. I have not powered the unit on yet, so I don't know how bright the thing is going to be. The other benefit of offsetting it is that I can adjust my left hand onto the upper portion of steering wheel and partially block my view of the FT if the thing is as bright as my rain light !!

I did have to use a die grinder and take a little of the fiberglass away from my shock cover. The air deflector is painted black and you can see where there is a little black paint on the shock cover itself. Where that black paint is under the air deflector has been removed to allow the wiring to run over the metal pipe and under the shock cover. The two connections that come into these ports are actually quite stiff. It may be possible to heat this stuff with a heat gun and gently convince it to bend in an area where needed. But, with my location, the wires can run straight from the back of FT and don't need a bend for a good distance.

There does appear to be a good bit of wiring with the unit. But, I wouldn't say it is completely ridiculous. The AIM FSW4 had some fairly long leads that I don't use and had to find a way to coil them up and out of the way. I am not that concerned with the amount of wiring on the FT.

I place my AIM GPS antenna under the shock cover and magnetically stuck to frame of car. I am gonna try and mount the GPS antenna for FT in the same area and hope it works through the fiberglass shock cover with no issue. I really don't want to have to hang this thing out in the wind somewhere. If it does have to be external. The antenna is probably going back next to where the master switch is. The FE2 side panels have a flat area there that I think will be a decent place to put it.

[DaveW]

Air deflector to reduce helmet lift and buffeting.

[CGOffroad]

Gray:

Will you please explain the air dam (wickerbill) on the coachwork? Very interested to know.

The air deflector in front of the steering wheel is to help with helmet buffeting at higher speeds. It just screws onto the fiberglass body part commonly called the 'shock cover'

Dave beat me to it.....

[Rick Iverson]

Dudes, your the best!

Air deflector to reduce helmet lift and buffeting.

The air deflector in front of the steering wheel is to help with helmet buffeting at higher speeds. It just screws onto the fiberglass body part commonly called the 'shock cover'

Dave beat me to it.....

[Rick Iverson]

Dave and Gray:

Are there vertical dimension specifications (read: height above the coachwork), that are optimal?

Air deflector to reduce helmet lift and buffeting.

[CGOffroad]

Dave and Gray:

Are there vertical dimension specifications (read: height above the coachwork), that are optimal?

I am not sure on this one. The deflector on the FE2 is a spec size. So, it just 'is what is'. Someone long before I got into this class figured out what should be on this car.

[Steve Davis]

I find that something like that also helps to reduce the BUG COUNT on my face shield.. as well as tire do-do and etc.
Steve, FV80

[douglap1]

Many thanks guys for the input on the FT200 mounting schemes and photos. That helps a lot!

[DaveW]

Dave and Gray:

Are there vertical dimension specifications (read: height above the coachwork), that are optimal?

The size and shape depends on several things:
o Your line of sight. Obviously you have to be able to see over it.
o How tall you sit above the bodywork that would otherwise do some air deflecting itself.
o The configuration of the bodywork, etc., surrounding and behind your head
o The shape of your helmet and whether it has any beneficial aero features

So it's a trial and error process, IMO, to get it right.

[Rick Iverson]

Dave:

This was a whim of a question, as these cars are mediocre in efficiency, aerodynamically speaking (at least the RF-95 is).

But I had an epiphany:

• Build (read: contour) the air damn face to match the inner coachwork.
• Add 0.50” - 0.75” in depth.
• Epoxy a perpendicular shelf at the bottom, say 1.0” deep.
• Contour everything smooth, polish, and wolla, a place to mount the FT xpondr.

Thoughts?

The size and shape depends on several things:
o Your line of sight. Obviously you have to be able to see over it.
o How tall you sit above the bodywork that would otherwise do some air deflecting itself.
o The configuration of the bodywork, etc., surrounding and behind your head
o The shape of your helmet and whether it has any beneficial aero features

So it's a trial and error process, IMO, to get it right.

[DaveW]

Dave:

This was a whim of a question, as these cars are mediocre in efficiency, aerodynamically speaking (at least the RF-95 is).

But I had an epiphany:

• Build (read: contour) the air damn face to match the inner coachwork.
• Add 0.50” - 0.75” in depth.
• Epoxy a perpendicular shelf at the bottom, say 1.0” deep.
• Contour everything smooth, polish, and wolla, a place to mount the FT xpondr.

Thoughts?

If you can design something you can see over but still has room for the standard FT w/o interfering with anything, go for it. There's nothing wrong with that idea.

[Rick Iverson]

How about clear plexiglass, say 0.1875” to 0.250”? Easy to form with a heat gun, and quite possibly would remove visibility issues.

If you can design something you can see over but still has room for the standard FT w/o interfering with anything, go for it. There's nothing wrong with that idea.

[douglap1]

How about clear plexiglass, say 0.1875” to 0.250”? Easy to form with a heat gun, and quite possibly would remove visibility issues.

We tried some type of clear plastic on mine, and it kept cracking after a couple of weekends. It always developed a vertical crack up and to the left a bit from center. Apparently from body panel vibration. So, we went with aluminum. In an RF01, this windscreen is well below eye level, so no need to see through it. I'm guessing I can mount the standard FT unit just in front of this windscreen without interfering with the steering wheel - we'll see.

[CGOffroad]

Yes plexiglass is too brittle. Use Lexan instead

[Messenger Racing]

[QUOTE=douglap1;671000]We tried some type of clear plastic on mine, and it kept cracking after a couple of weekends. It always developed a vertical crack up and to the left a bit from center. Apparently from body panel vibration. So, we went with aluminum. In an RF01, this windscreen is well below eye level, so no need to see through it. I'm guessing I can mount the standard FT unit just in front of this windscreen without interfering with the steering wheel - we'll see.

I use aluminum air deflectors also. Significant improvement in helmet buffeting control.

Regarding the Flagtronics in the standard late model VD Formula F- mine is mounted even with the very top of the aluminum windscreen. My dash is just below it so it can be seen through the open top in my steering wheel. A hole is drilled in the top of the bodywork to pass the wires through and down behind the front roll hoop. The wires do not want to bend in the first three inches behind the device so be gentle and plan your bend accordingly. Be very careful unplugging the wires from the back of the device. The clips are light weight and are very easily broken.

Yes, the shift lights, warning lights and flagtronics lights are all together and take a lot of processing to sort in the heat of the battle - I expect that will go away. We only use the event once a year at the Runoffs so we will see next year. (side note - anyone know if they will be used elsewhere other than Super tour?)

Some use the side of the dash mount in these cars - make sure you understand that you need to see it without turning your head and with your hands in full race position. It works for some but I am a tall driver with large hands and the steering wheel/dash mounted higher than most. Any mounting on the left or right side is totally obscured by my hands and the steering wheel except while turning. I want to be able to see it immediately or I feel I have defeated the whole purpose.

[Rick Iverson]

Gray, excellent idea.

Yes plexiglass is too brittle. Use Lexan instead

[DaveW]

Yes plexiglass is too brittle. Use Lexan instead

The one downside to Lexan is it will craze/crack with even minimal exposure to some things like gasoline or other solvents. Even some oils will make this happen. Plexiglas is not affected by these, but is definitely more brittle.

Way back in my FV days, I used Plexiglas for a windshield, and it was very durable - used it for several years. The key to that was to bend it to the required shape with heat to fit w/o more bending so it was not elastically stressed in use.

[Rick Kirchner]

looking at the white car....

Since the part of the cowl directly in front of the driver does not come off in normal use, why not cut away the "bump" in front of the air deflector, cut a window in the air deflector for the display, and 3D print a more aerodynamic cover for the FT unit?

If that piece was commonly removed this would create a cabling disconnect/connect issue, but since it largely remains in place, no problem.

Seems like the deflector, mount, and aero cover could be one singe 3D printed piece, or use the print for a mold.

[Messenger Racing]

looking at the white car....

Since the part of the cowl directly in front of the driver does not come off in normal use, why not cut away the "bump" in front of the air deflector, cut a window in the air deflector for the display, and 3D print a more aerodynamic cover for the FT unit?

If that piece was commonly removed this would create a cabling disconnect/connect issue, but since it largely remains in place, no problem.

Seems like the deflector, mount, and aero cover could be one singe 3D printed piece, or use the print for a mold.

Corky Jahn did something similar but higher. The V bump on a van diemen is to cover the top of the front roll hoop and so cutting away that bodywork does not help with a standard Flagtronics as the wires have to be above all of the metal in the front roll hoop.

JM

[Rick Iverson]

mine is mounted even with the very top of the aluminum windscreen.

I recommended to FT (not directly, but here on Apex) to offer an extrusion minus the mounting legs, and 8-32 or 10-32 tapped holes on the back, both sides and top and bottom. That would make mounting much easier.