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  1. #1
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    Default Cars back on track! Some setup questions.

    Finally got my car back on track after a major wreck last year. Starting from scratch with setup and car is about 2-4 seconds off my old pace at Blackhawk. What is a good baseline alignment, especially regarding ride height and rake. Seems like the car wants the front to be a bit lower than the rear. I don't have a set of scales to use at the moment to properly corner balance.
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  3. #2
    Senior Member mstephenson51's Avatar
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    Im at work, so forgive me everyone if I get the baseline setup wrong from memory....

    Toe: front .150" total, Rear zero
    Camber: -.8Front +.2Rear
    Caster 4.5 degrees measured on the upright for front, Rear is zero ish. (moses gave me some heim measurements that I arrived at roughly zero)
    Heights: Front 2.0 with driver, Rear 2.75 with driver (key here is 5/8"-3/4" rake)
    Front bar full soft, Rear Bar 2" front full soft
    Small shock rubber in front, Large in back
    Front shocks 2 clicks off max on both, Rear 4 clicks off max on both.
    Front wings 7-8, Rear 8-9 ish.

    This should get you close without scales. Get her on as level ground as possible, springs set to equal preload/heights and just play with each roll bar adjuster to neutral them out and you should be within 15 lbs of good.

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  5. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by mstephenson51 View Post
    Im at work, so forgive me everyone if I get the baseline setup wrong from memory....

    Toe: front .150" total, Rear zero
    Camber: -.8Front +.2Rear
    Caster 4.5 degrees measured on the upright for front, Rear is zero ish. (moses gave me some heim measurements that I arrived at roughly zero)
    Heights: Front 2.0 with driver, Rear 2.75 with driver (key here is 5/8"-3/4" rake)
    Front bar full soft, Rear Bar 2" front full soft
    Small shock rubber in front, Large in back
    Front shocks 2 clicks off max on both, Rear 4 clicks off max on both.
    Front wings 7-8, Rear 8-9 ish.

    This should get you close without scales. Get her on as level ground as possible, springs set to equal preload/heights and just play with each roll bar adjuster to neutral them out and you should be within 15 lbs of good.
    Thank you! The toe camber and caster is right where I have it set but I went level at 2" with driver and the shocks are all 4 from hardest. Tire wear looks really good and even from the weekend. I noticed the front felt like it was hopping a little in very tight corners which makes sense looking at the proper baseline settings. Thanks again! Now gotta order a carb rebuild kit and go through that, and give it a good cleaning car has a little hiccup getting back on throttle on corner exit.

  6. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dmitri View Post
    Thank you! The toe camber and caster is right where I have it set but I went level at 2" with driver and the shocks are all 4 from hardest. Tire wear looks really good and even from the weekend. I noticed the front felt like it was hopping a little in very tight corners which makes sense looking at the proper baseline settings. Thanks again! Now gotta order a carb rebuild kit and go through that, and give it a good cleaning car has a little hiccup getting back on throttle on corner exit.
    My rear is at +.5 though.

  7. #5
    Senior Member SwanTechEnt's Avatar
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    Good to see the car back together!

  8. #6
    Senior Member mstephenson51's Avatar
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    Yeah, you have to get some rake in the car, or it will understeer like a dumptruck. ;0) get the rear at least 1/2" higher than front. I run 3/4" some run 5/8".

    In the carb, your weather is similar to mine, so on the main stack start with 240 air corrector, F15 emulsion tube, 195 or 200 Main. I forget the idle jets I have, I think its 70F10. With a perfect clean and rebuilt carb you will then likely need to set the idle screw about 2-3 turns out. Set 2k rpm idle and you should have a nice "bop bop bop bop" idle. You need to gun it every 30-45 sec to keep it cleared out, because set like this will be VERY rich on the idle. LONG STORY SHORT: This gets you a bunch of gas in the engine already when you get back on the throttle coming off corners. You will notice a big difference getting the car out of the corner.

    I know Im a noob, so other ppl might explain better how to set the carb, but this is what I was told once.

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mstephenson51 View Post
    Yeah, you have to get some rake in the car, or it will understeer like a dumptruck. ;0) get the rear at least 1/2" higher than front. I run 3/4" some run 5/8".

    In the carb, your weather is similar to mine, so on the main stack start with 240 air corrector, F15 emulsion tube, 195 or 200 Main. I forget the idle jets I have, I think its 70F10. With a perfect clean and rebuilt carb you will then likely need to set the idle screw about 2-3 turns out. Set 2k rpm idle and you should have a nice "bop bop bop bop" idle. You need to gun it every 30-45 sec to keep it cleared out, because set like this will be VERY rich on the idle. LONG STORY SHORT: This gets you a bunch of gas in the engine already when you get back on the throttle coming off corners. You will notice a big difference getting the car out of the corner.

    I know Im a noob, so other ppl might explain better how to set the carb, but this is what I was told once.
    Now that you mention it i think i may have caused the little studder going back on throttle by lowering the idle. I got it set at about 1100-1200 from about 1500-1600 that i had last year. Ill try turning it back up and see if it goes back to normal.

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