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  1. #41
    Senior Member Mark Filip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackhole View Post
    It's just aluminum with carbon fibre vinyl (sticker).
    I don't think I would rely on those as "intrusion panels" maybe I would call them wind deflectors if you have a hole in your body work. Unfortunately I have somewhat of the same problem which is why I asked if it was a true intrusion panel. I have no room to add bars but would like to find something other than aluminum because it really does nothing but hold you in the car.

    Your car is looking good
    Mark Filip

  2. #42
    Senior Member blackhole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fvracer27 View Post
    I don't think I would rely on those as "intrusion panels" maybe I would call them wind deflectors if you have a hole in your body work. Unfortunately I have somewhat of the same problem which is why I asked if it was a true intrusion panel. I have no room to add bars but would like to find something other than aluminum because it really does nothing but hold you in the car.

    Your car is looking good
    Every BRD is designed like that. They seemed to work well. Spencer Todds BRD and Andre Bonaldos BRD got into some crazy flips down here and they held up much better than I thought. I'm not to worried about it.
    Kapelke Tuned

    RF93 Van Diemen FF1600

  3. #43
    Senior Member blackhole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rolling Stone View Post
    Those cooling scoops look BIG!!!good to see you working hard with the camera while your dad does the easy stuff!!!!
    Yeah you weren't complaining when we kept your car running at the track!!!! You weren't laughing when I figured out your car on those test drives. I guess I win this one Frank!!!
    Kapelke Tuned

    RF93 Van Diemen FF1600

  4. #44
    Senior Member blackhole's Avatar
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    Masked up the body for the Red stripes. Finished paint. Clear Coat on. Finished the gearbox protector. For our "no pushing rule" Next up odds and ends. Also my favourite part "STICKERS"

    Updated photos!
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    Last edited by blackhole; 02.15.14 at 12:07 PM.
    Kapelke Tuned

    RF93 Van Diemen FF1600

  5. #45
    Senior Member blackhole's Avatar
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    Had to change the photos The forum would only let me upload small file sizes.
    Kapelke Tuned

    RF93 Van Diemen FF1600

  6. #46
    Senior Member AVR_Shane's Avatar
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    that push bar doesn't look very pushable for the "no pushing" rule
    Shane Viccary
    #27 Citation-Zink Z-16

  7. #47
    Senior Member blackhole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AVR_Shane View Post
    that push bar doesn't look very pushable for the "no pushing" rule
    It makes you think it's not pushable for the "no pushing" rule. Oh but it is!
    Kapelke Tuned

    RF93 Van Diemen FF1600

  8. #48
    Senior Member karmaboy's Avatar
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    I noticed that you installed a quick release battery connection at the back.
    I'm installing one now...
    How does the wiring work?
    I could wire it in parallel to the existing battery (which makes sense)
    But I don't want to run 2ga wire to the front of the car.
    Is there another way (or the right way?)

  9. #49
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    I’d make the push-bar as strong as you can. There maybe a ‘no pushing’ rule in Ontario, but there isn’t a ‘no running into the back of you, by accident’ rule and bending the push-bar onto the gear shift and jamming you into 3rd gear.


    I wire the battery plug –ve to earth, i.e. the gearbox and the +ve to the +ve terminal on the starter. That way I can start the car from the slave battery with the Kill-Switch off and not drain the on board battery.

  10. #50
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    To clarify, what GB said requires your kill switch to be in the battery ground line, not the positive line.

    #2 wire is not needed, IMO. #4 or #6 will work fine, especially with the short distance from the connector to the +starter terminal and nearby ground.

  11. #51
    Senior Member AVR_Shane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by karmaboy View Post
    I noticed that you installed a quick release battery connection at the back.
    I'm installing one now...
    How does the wiring work?
    I could wire it in parallel to the existing battery (which makes sense)
    But I don't want to run 2ga wire to the front of the car.
    Is there another way (or the right way?)
    What Guy described is how we have always done it too.

    If you have already bought one, no problem. If you haven't yet and it helps you decide on the colour, we use the grey one on our boosters.
    Shane Viccary
    #27 Citation-Zink Z-16

  12. #52
    Senior Member Rolling Stone's Avatar
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    Nice paint job!!Wunderbar!cant wait to see it at Mosport for the first time

  13. #53
    Senior Member karmaboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLS View Post
    To clarify, what GB said requires your kill switch to be in the battery ground line, not the positive line.

    #2 wire is not needed, IMO. #4 or #6 will work fine, especially with the short distance from the connector to the +starter terminal and nearby ground.
    Hmmm...my kill switch is on the +ve side.
    Should work the same...I just need to have the kill switch on...right?

  14. #54
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    My Kill-Switch is in the +ve line and I can start the car from the slave battery with the kill switch off.

  15. #55
    Senior Member Mark Filip's Avatar
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    With the advancements in batteries do you really need this quick battery connector and do you use it?

    I run a light weight Lithium-Ion charge it in between race weekends and never touch it during the race weekend and this includes a full test day on Friday. I monitor the battery voltage after each session and it barley moves and I run data and a camera off it.

    Even when I was running a lead acid tractor battery I never had a problem.

    I guess it would be nice in a pinch if the car died on grid but if you test after each sessionyou should already know if it's going to die.
    Mark Filip

  16. #56
    Contributing Member problemchild's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fvracer27 View Post
    With the advancements in batteries do you really need this quick battery connector and do you use it?

    I run a light weight Lithium-Ion charge it in between race weekends and never touch it during the race weekend and this includes a full test day on Friday. I monitor the battery voltage after each session and it barley moves and I run data and a camera off it.

    Even when I was running a lead acid tractor battery I never had a problem.

    I guess it would be nice in a pinch if the car died on grid but if you test after each sessionyou should already know if it's going to die.
    Have you ever tried to put booster cables onto a miniature battery inside a formula car with the driver on board .... on the false grid or just before going to grid? The reason every race car should have a jumper plug and a matching jumper hookup cables, is that one day you will need it. Without it, you will miss a session or race that you've spent hundreds or thousands to be there for. As racers get more serious, their trailers tend to get bigger, as they acquire more support equipment to make sure they are operating at maximum efficiency with maximum support. $25 for a couple of plug ends is one of the first items of support equipment a racer should have. Even without a dedicated booster battery, you can use your street car in the paddock and find aid from others on the grid.
    Greg Rice, RICERACEPREP.com
    F1600 Arrive-N-Drive for FRP and SCCA, FC SCCA also. Including Runoffs
    2020 & 2022 F1600 Champion, 2020 SCCA FF Champion, 2021 SCCA FC Champion,
    2016 F2000 Champion, Follow RiceRacePrep on Instagram.

  17. #57
    Senior Member karmaboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by problemchild View Post
    Without it, you will miss a session or race that you've spent hundreds or thousands to be there for.
    Quoted for truth.
    Never had an issue with the Odyssey battery in the last 2 years.
    The quick release just seems like a cheap and good idea.

  18. #58
    Senior Member Mark Filip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by problemchild View Post
    Have you ever tried to put booster cables onto a miniature battery inside a formula car with the driver on board .... on the false grid or just before going to grid? The reason every race car should have a jumper plug and a matching jumper hookup cables, is that one day you will need it. Without it, you will miss a session or race that you've spent hundreds or thousands to be there for. As racers get more serious, their trailers tend to get bigger, as they acquire more support equipment to make sure they are operating at maximum efficiency with maximum support. $25 for a couple of plug ends is one of the first items of support equipment a racer should have. Even without a dedicated booster battery, you can use your street car in the paddock and find aid from others on the grid.
    If your battery is dead on grid and you jump it with a battery box it will not run the whole session anyways. It may make it if you run points, all machanical gauges, no data and hope it's not raining. You need to be more prepared before getting to the grid.

    The odyssey is a excellent choice being deep cycle I bet you would have no problem running the car, a winch to pull the car onto the trailer and power your iPod when your relaxing between races for 3 weekends ;-)

    I guess I just look at it different Greg. A wise man taught me the KISS principle a few years back.
    Mark Filip

  19. #59
    Senior Member Rolling Stone's Avatar
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    I never had a battery problem in 4 years,had 2 batteries in that time and always charged it fully before the w/End good thing about stick shift is you get guys to push start you if a problem occurs.I had a connecter on the back of My F1200 but only used it maybe twice to charge my battery after using battery a lot working on car that particular time at the track.(Nice back to have tho for a few bucks).

  20. #60
    Senior Member Rolling Stone's Avatar
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    Greg with his head in-between Steves legs trying to connect to a battery is a photo worth big $$$$$$$$$$$$$$

  21. #61
    Contributing Member problemchild's Avatar
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    I guess if you have to ask ..... you won't understand the answer. Anyone who races long enough, will one day have an electrical problem, no matter how simple they claim to be.

    Being able to start the car without using up the in-car battery, charging through the plug, etc all are good reasons to have one. Personally, if I did have some electrical issues, getting in half a session is better than not starting a session. A crappy Qual time is better than no Qual time. To each his own. Cheers!
    Greg Rice, RICERACEPREP.com
    F1600 Arrive-N-Drive for FRP and SCCA, FC SCCA also. Including Runoffs
    2020 & 2022 F1600 Champion, 2020 SCCA FF Champion, 2021 SCCA FC Champion,
    2016 F2000 Champion, Follow RiceRacePrep on Instagram.

  22. #62
    Senior Member Mark Filip's Avatar
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    Not sure a half session is worth the possibility of being rolled over when getting a flat tow back to the paddock seems to happen a lot these days.
    Mark Filip

  23. #63
    Senior Member blackhole's Avatar
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    Thanks for hijacking my thread. You know what I love about racing is that everyone thinks they can pee farther than the next guy.
    Kapelke Tuned

    RF93 Van Diemen FF1600

  24. #64
    Senior Member AVR_Shane's Avatar
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    Kevin, I can DEFINITELY pee further than you...but let's not get into that can of worms

    let's have some more car building pics!
    Shane Viccary
    #27 Citation-Zink Z-16

  25. #65
    Senior Member blackhole's Avatar
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    Mounted the body with all the quick disconnects. Finished our custom 4-2-1 stepped exhaust and collector with all proper baffling and diffusers inside. (Derived from a super bike exhaust collector) still need some decals and numbers.Attachment 44009

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    Last edited by blackhole; 02.17.14 at 7:28 PM.
    Kapelke Tuned

    RF93 Van Diemen FF1600

  26. #66
    Senior Member Rolling Stone's Avatar
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    How does the exhaust sound?same or different kinda sound?car looks like a championship winner

  27. #67
    Senior Member blackhole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rolling Stone View Post
    How does the exhaust sound?same or different kinda sound?car looks like a championship winner
    Not really any different sound. It sounds like the one we have on the Blackhole so it's rather throaty!
    Kapelke Tuned

    RF93 Van Diemen FF1600

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