CDS or ERW?Originally Posted by kea
CDS or ERW?
The difference in weight between my design and yours, assuming you're using 3/4" x 3/4" x .048", is about 0.78lb
Max
T45 Vs 4130
T45 is just not available here so it's not really an option. I don't think trying to import 6' of 3/4" x 3/4" x 0.48" tube is really an option.
I'll be using Mild Steel, as everything but the Roll Hoop on the chassis is Mild Steel. No problems welding or normalizing.
Max
"Mild steel" is, IMO, fine. It's not likely to break, which would be bad, but it may bend in a severe frontal impact. However, in that case, a small amount of bending does not defeat its purpose, which is to support the shoulder harness.
Dave Weitzenhof
Material
I agree - since the chassis it's self is made of mild steel. I TIG welded my braces with silicon bronze rod as it's similar to the original brazing in strength & peal. Since I'm 6'3" I also put in 3 different belt mounting points heights to handle different drivers if needed.
John H.
Reynard 88SF
Sequence of Panel Installation
On my car the side angled aluminum panels were installed first and then the Floor Panel installed. This means that the floor panel is/will be bonded to the side panel, which is bonded to the chassis longitudinal members. I'm 90% sure these panels on my car are not original, and something about this seems 'not-right'. It means the floor panel has to joggle up to contact the chassis cross tubes, when it would seem the floor 'should' be flat and bonded directly to the frame.
Can anyone who has a Reynard 84-ish FF, or had one in the past, recall how this was done on their chassis?
Thank you,
Max
kea (Mr. Keith Averill) www.racing-stuff.com is your friend. He is the authority of all things Reynard and a great resource.
“Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty.” -Peter Egan
On those 40 year old cars the floors were not originally designed to really be structural strengthening parts as more modern cars. They were there to keep the elements out of the driver's area.
I believe on mine the floor was glued and riveted on first before the sides. I seem to remember someone building a floor that was wider than the bottom and then breaking the edges up at the same angle of the sides forming sort of a chassis long tab, so the sides could be easily installed and removed without the sides having to fold underneath the chassis.
An important thing to do is have a steel angle iron piece at the front of the chassis to protect the leading edge of the floor. You don't want to go off in the grass and have the floor peal off , filling the cockpit with sod. Don't ask how I know.
Its been 22 years since I had a '84 in my shop and I didn't sleep in a Holiday inn last night. YMMV
And to keep the driver's feet out of the elements...
Lola: When four springs just aren't enough.
Reynard floor
How I did mine 12 years ago
There are currently 7 users browsing this thread. (2 members and 5 guests)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote