Steel vs aluminum

[WHOLLIS711]

We will be upgrading to a 8.5 by 20 trailer soon, living with a 7 by 16 is getting old in a hurry. What are thoughts on steel versus aluminum trailers, aluminum is going to be roughly twice the cost. Nobody can really give you a straight answer on weight savings but that is important for towing with our RV. The other point is holding their value, it seems like aluminum puts things in a different category with retaining value compared to steel.

Also, we live in Alabama and there are a billion trailer manufacturers nearby in Georgia. Its hard to tell how many of these trailers end up all over the country being sold under all different brand names, but it seems like there are lots of commentary on you get what you pay for. We keep trailers in our shop so I dont have concerns about rust.

[billtebbutt]

I thought you were not looking hard enough for the data re differences in weight between steel and aluminum, but you weren't (I checked)! From what I could see, for the same size trailer there could be a weight difference of anywhere from 900-1400 pounds. I think the real variable here is how different manufacturers actually draw up their designs. Is the roof on 16" centres or 24" centres? What thickness aluminum are they using for exterior walls? Alloy wheels vs steel (its a huge difference btw)? Flooring material? We could go on here for a while, but I get the sense that you really won't be able to get a close comparison.

best,
bt

[EYERACE]

if the trailer will have many a mile on it overtime.....go alum

[CGOffroad]

I have owned both steel and aluminum trailers over time. I experimented with a 20' tag trailer for a while due to owning an RV and having plans of using that as my means of going to track. That didn't last, and I went back to towing with a truck. I greatly prefer towing a gooseneck than a tag, so most of my input will come from goosenecks. It has been mentioned in a previous response, but there are quite a few variables which can affect actual weight difference between steel vs AL. In my instance with the gooseneck trailers, I found the weight difference to be roughly a 15-20% reduction in weight with aluminum. It is NOT as much of a weight reduction as I was thinking it could be. Tag trailers may be able to have a greater difference in weight, but I have no info on this. I have never owned an aluminum tag trailer.

MY OPINION: (if an aerodynamic trailer engineer gets on here with some real data, I am willing to change this) the shape of the trailer, and where it connects to my truck have a much greater impact on my trucks fuel consumption than the weight of the trailer. I have found that I get equal or better fuel mileage pulling a 32' gooseneck than I did pulling a 20' tag trailer. Also, the gooseneck provides better stability while on the freeway than the tags do. There are pluses and minuses to both styles, but these two things are why I prefer gooseneck. The difference I would see in fuel mileage comparing a 30' gooseneck aluminum vs the 32' steel gooseneck is minimal. Do the math on how much fuel savings you will get over 8,000 miles with 0.25 MPG difference. I have... and my analysis is that my life expectancy is not long enough to recoup the potential 'savings' in fuel for the difference in weight of a steel vs aluminum trailer, when considering the cost difference between the two !!

You are pulling with an RV, so tag trailer IS your option. Some things to consider with your trailer purchase is tongue weight, and if you want leaf spring or torsion axle. An empty trailer can vary in difference of tongue weight based upon the distance from the tongue ball to where the axles are mounted. There is a 'window' in which the axles will be mounted, but various manufacturers may affix the axles at slightly different distances. This WILL affect tongue weight. Also, you will probably know already where you place heavy objects in your existing trailer. Since you are going with a larger trailer, you will probably start carrying more stuff. Figure out what all that is, and where you will place it in the trailer and ensure you can get the tongue weight you need.

Torsion or leaf spring: this can be equally as heated of discussion as 'what oil do you run'. Torsion axles need the trailer deck to be level for equal load distribution to axles and tires. You may need to have an adjustable connection point on your towing vehicle to move tongue up or down to ensure trailer is level. If you simply do not have the ability to change the height of trailer ball on your tow vehicle, you may want to consider a leaf spring trailer.

[10rmotor]

The leaf spring vs. torsion is a good consideration as well. I looked for a while until I found a toy box style trailer that had torsion axles. The torsion axles had a (on average imo) lower deck height than a leaf spring axle setup, which was a consideration for my low ground clearance DSR. In addition, because of the torsion axles I was able to re-clock the swing arms up to lower the trailer even more since I wasn't going off road. All I needed to do was adjust the hitch ball height to get the trailer level while towing. And the rear of the trailer is also beaver tailed. In the end all I need to load the car is to prop the ramp door up on short 6" chassis stands, and some 2X8 planks to roll the car in and out. And jack the front of the trailer up.

[DaveW]

We will be upgrading to a 8.5 by 20 trailer soon, living with a 7 by 16 is getting old in a hurry. What are thoughts on steel versus aluminum trailers, aluminum is going to be roughly twice the cost. Nobody can really give you a straight answer on weight savings but that is important for towing with our RV. The other point is holding their value, it seems like aluminum puts things in a different category with retaining value compared to steel.

Also, we live in Alabama and there are a billion trailer manufacturers nearby in Georgia. Its hard to tell how many of these trailers end up all over the country being sold under all different brand names, but it seems like there are lots of commentary on you get what you pay for. We keep trailers in our shop so I dont have concerns about rust.

IMO, the difference in weight is only important if you do lot of mountainous/hilly routes, An extra 1000 lb makes a significant difference regarding what you can tow with. A light-duty tow vehicle may struggle with the uphills, and its brake system with the downhills. On the flats, aero drag is almost the whole story.

[EACIII]

When I switched from a steel to aluminum trailer with the improved gas mileage towing with my motorhome, after 10 years the aluminum trailer would be free (I keep my trailers 10 years plus)

You mileage may vary.

Ed

[WHOLLIS711]

Thanks everyone, I appreciate it. I tow with a dually so thats no big deal on the weight, but we also tow with our class C gas RV. It has the new Godzilla ford 400 hp V8 in it instead of the old v10 and its the E450 chassis with factory air bags. It tows our 16' steel with the car in it with no issues, so I am figuring a aluminum 20 footer might be a wash on weight with the steel 16'. Also I know if I get steel I am still gonna be envious every time I see an aluminum. And lastly, the alumiums seem to all come what well know long term manufacturers while the steel seem cranked out on every street corner in Georgia and then slapped with all kinds of different brand names and very little warranty. And lastly again, resale, aluminum seems to be money in the bank compared to steel.