Aluminum Expansion

[Rick Iverson]

Gents:

I will be using a Velocity Haus front ARB lever. Currently, it will allow the blade to slip in approximately 0.125”, but I am not willing to destroy the blade’s finish, so I need some advice.

Heat will expand the Al, so my surmise is cold. Dry ice for 30 minutes or so?

[teamwisconsin]

I wouldn't recommend using one of those Rick. I have seen more than one blade bar break one half of the blade off on the side where the adjuster was mounted. The better way to do this is make a clevis style post that mounts off the center lockbolt, thus allowing both blades to move freely. You'll need to machine a shoulder onto the bottom of the clevis so when it tightens up the shoulder acts as a guide in the bar housing and still allows the blade to rotate fore/aft smoothly. Hopefully this makes sense. See attached pic-

[Rick Iverson]

Ethan:

An elegant solution to a simple problem. Truly genius, Bud.

I wouldn't recommend using one of those Rick. I have seen more than one blade bar break one half of the blade off on the side where the adjuster was mounted. The better way to do this is make a clevis style post that mounts off the center lockbolt, thus allowing both blades to move freely. You'll need to machine a shoulder onto the bottom of the clevis so when it tightens up the shoulder acts as a guide in the bar housing and still allows the blade to rotate fore/aft smoothly. Hopefully this makes sense. See attached pic-

[alangbaker]

I wouldn't recommend using one of those Rick. I have seen more than one blade bar break one half of the blade off on the side where the adjuster was mounted. The better way to do this is make a clevis style post that mounts off the center lockbolt, thus allowing both blades to move freely. You'll need to machine a shoulder onto the bottom of the clevis so when it tightens up the shoulder acts as a guide in the bar housing and still allows the blade to rotate fore/aft smoothly. Hopefully this makes sense. See attached pic-

Since you're mounting to the centre of the blades, where would you fix the other end of the push/pull cable?

In my car, there is a lever that mounts to the end shaft of the righthand side of the blade, outside the rod end for the pushrod, and the push/pull cable mounts on that same pushrod. So when the suspension moves, they both move the same amount and the bar therefore doesn't "adjust" with suspension movement.

So with your centre-mounted adjustment lever, mounting the the push/pull cable to either side would mean there would relative motion of the bar when the suspension moves in roll or single bump/dip (you'd be fine in double bump). That would make the roll stiffness different for left and right corners.

[BeerBudgetRacing]

Since you're mounting to the centre of the blades, where would you fix the other end of the push/pull cable?

Good point. Mine is like your.

I like this cable connection so I hope there's more to the picture!

[Rick Iverson]

I was thinking about this.

The blades are probably CrMo, and the lever is prolly forged 6061-T6. Softer, right?

[10rmotor]

I was thinking about this.

The blades are probably CrMo, and the lever is prolly forged 6061-T6. Softer, right?

If you're asking is the alum softer than the 4130, yes it is. But the T6 isn't exactly soft, but it is softer than 7075. The 6061 machines well.

[Rick Iverson]

I will check with Greg on the specifics.

If you're asking is the alum softer than the 4130, yes it is. But the T6 isn't exactly soft, but it is softer than 7075. The 6061 machines well.

[Rick Iverson]

Wrong post

[Rick Iverson]

Gents:

I spoke with Gregg today, and the lever is in fact machined 6061-T6.

If I were to move to the ARB to center, I would need to:

• fabricate an anchor at a chassis cross bar midpoint
• fabricate a new lever
• buy a new cable

Gotta tell you Fellas, I believe what I have is satisfactory. Thoughts?