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  1. #1
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    Default Bought this car, need some help figuring out what it is

    I just bought this car out of Michigan. The owner got it from an estate sale about 4 years ago, he didnt do anything with it other than change up the fluids, new battery and get it running. He fired it up a few times a month since, life got in the way of him racing it. The estate had no information on it and they could not find the log book. Has a 2008 water cooled Yamaha R1 1000 in it. Others have said that the body is a A-Mac but not the chassis.

    Owner was told it ran with a number 67 at Waterford Hills raceway in Michigan. It would have been at least 5 years ago. It has tech stickers from Waterford but he cant make out the dates.

    Trying to figure out what the chassis is or if its a home built copy of something. It came with the molds.

    Thanks in advance for any help. Going to get it completely restored and get it through tech, new log book and run it in the SCCA South East division.

    - Walt
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  2. #2
    Contributing Member Lotus7's Avatar
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    hope you have fun with this :-)

    I'm always amazed by guys who buy a total mystery car with no idea who/what/when or where they can run it :-)
    Ian Macpherson
    Savannah, GA
    Race prep, support, and engineering.

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  4. #3
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    Looks pretty nifty to me . Obviously an SCCA DSR from some years ago, but looks like it has been kept INSIDE, which is quite a plus. Also simple construction and seems like it might be easy to work on. Look on the left of the main roll bar - probably just above or just below the top edge of the body work .. for a ROLL BAR NUMBER. It will be either 2 or 3 digits (the number of the SCCA REGION - post here and ask which region it is, or go to SCCA.com and 'search for region'), followed by 'some other number .. a chronological number from the SCCA Region that issued the original logbook.. assuming it ever had one. It might help a LOT if you could determine the NAME of the previous owner .. the one who's estate we are dealing with... and maybe a LOCATION of where he lived. That, along with the roll bar number should point you to the region that issued that first log book.. and .. maybe.. just maybe, you'll be able to find someone that has the records of the first issuance of a logbook for the CAR. If you can get that, you should have no trouble getting it going.. UNLESS the rules for the DSR don't fit into ANY current SCCA class (DSR no longer exists in SCCA).. but it SHOULD 'fit' (might not be remotely competitive) into the P2 category.

    Looks really clean and well cared for, but will need a good 'going over' before running it at any sort of speed... and no doubt, some NEW TIRES .

    Good luck,
    Steve, FV80
    PS.. if you're not already a 'race driver' and you have an opportunity to buy something really COOL LOOKING that you can afford - why NOT buy it and see what you can do with it later?? He'll figure out what he got himself into LATER .. when it's TOO LATE!! <VBG>
    Steve, FV80
    Racing since '73 - FV since '77

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  6. #4
    Senior Member 924RACR's Avatar
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    Definitely not out at Waterford in the last 10+ years! I've never seen it, and I've been racing there for 25 years (though only paying attention to open wheel for the last 14 or so)...

    Heck, lemme see if I can snag one or two of the pics, throw them at the Waterford forums and see if anyone recognizes it...

    Good luck with it! Looks like an interesting mix of bits, as they so often are...
    Vaughan Scott
    #77 ITB/HP Porsche 924
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    it is indeed an Amac AM7 body and is for certain NOT an Amac chassis. It looks to be a homebuilt one off chassis. I don't know if you'll need a homologation certificate to run with SCCA, I don't know where the club is with that info these days. Looks to be a bit heavy but most one off cars generally were. Out of curiosity, how wide is the bodywork? I ask because we had an original narrow body that was installed on one or two cars and then all later cars got the wider body. I like the suspension setup but those A arms are gonna be expensive to replace!

    What did you pay for it, if I can ask?
    Last edited by 10rmotor; 06.13.24 at 1:23 PM.

  8. #6
    Senior Member 924RACR's Avatar
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    I was going to post that I don't believe homologation is even required any more to run P1/P2... but I rechecked and I was wrong!

    If it does become necessary to homologate it, feel free to hit me up, I did go through this process for my car when it was initially built as a DSR, happy to share knowledge. It wasn't too bad a process, IMO - main thing being to have lots of pics to document content, design, and construction, and a website to share those through...
    Vaughan Scott
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    http://www.vaughanscott.com

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  10. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 924RACR View Post
    I was going to post that I don't believe homologation is even required any more to run P1/P2... but I rechecked and I was wrong!

    If it does become necessary to homologate it, feel free to hit me up, I did go through this process for my car when it was initially built as a DSR, happy to share knowledge. It wasn't too bad a process, IMO - main thing being to have lots of pics to document content, design, and construction, and a website to share those through...
    Good to know they still want homologation papers. I recently got a crashed Amac chassis that I have since repaired and I didn't get a logbook and cert with it. I've since obtained both of those but it cost a few dollars.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Davis View Post
    Looks pretty nifty to me . Obviously an SCCA DSR from some years ago, but looks like it has been kept INSIDE, which is quite a plus. Also simple construction and seems like it might be easy to work on. Look on the left of the main roll bar - probably just above or just below the top edge of the body work .. for a ROLL BAR NUMBER. It will be either 2 or 3 digits (the number of the SCCA REGION - post here and ask which region it is, or go to SCCA.com and 'search for region'), followed by 'some other number .. a chronological number from the SCCA Region that issued the original logbook.. assuming it ever had one. It might help a LOT if you could determine the NAME of the previous owner .. the one who's estate we are dealing with... and maybe a LOCATION of where he lived. That, along with the roll bar number should point you to the region that issued that first log book.. and .. maybe.. just maybe, you'll be able to find someone that has the records of the first issuance of a logbook for the CAR. If you can get that, you should have no trouble getting it going.. UNLESS the rules for the DSR don't fit into ANY current SCCA class (DSR no longer exists in SCCA).. but it SHOULD 'fit' (might not be remotely competitive) into the P2 category.

    Looks really clean and well cared for, but will need a good 'going over' before running it at any sort of speed... and no doubt, some NEW TIRES .

    Good luck,
    Steve, FV80
    PS.. if you're not already a 'race driver' and you have an opportunity to buy something really COOL LOOKING that you can afford - why NOT buy it and see what you can do with it later?? He'll figure out what he got himself into LATER .. when it's TOO LATE!! <VBG>
    Thanks Steve, already a race car driver, just adding another. Race a Miata in Improved Touring, been wanting to get into purpose built race car versus a production car for awhile now. Hard to pass up this deal. And yes we will go through top to bottom and shake it out on some track days before racing it.

  12. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10rmotor View Post
    it is indeed an Amac AM7 body and is for certain NOT an Amac chassis. It looks to be a homebuilt one off chassis. I don't know if you'll need a homologation certificate to run with SCCA, I don't know where the club is with that info these days. Looks to be a bit heavy but most one off cars generally were. Out of curiosity, how wide is the bodywork? I ask because we had an original narrow body that was installed on one or two cars and then all later cars got the wider body.

    What did you pay for it, if I can ask?
    Body is 68" wide, paid $10,000. Comes with the molds, several sets or rims, rains, etc.

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  13. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 924RACR View Post
    Definitely not out at Waterford in the last 10+ years! I've never seen it, and I've been racing there for 25 years (though only paying attention to open wheel for the last 14 or so)...

    Heck, lemme see if I can snag one or two of the pics, throw them at the Waterford forums and see if anyone recognizes it...

    Good luck with it! Looks like an interesting mix of bits, as they so often are...
    Thanks appreciate you posting it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotus7 View Post
    hope you have fun with this :-)

    I'm always amazed by guys who buy a total mystery car with no idea who/what/when or where they can run it :-)
    Some would call it an illness.........

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  16. #12
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    Thats not a horrible price. The shocks aren't cheap. I have to check but I think 68" sounds a bit wide. Where/how did you take that measurement? Does it have a diff? I'm going to guess it does, based on the other details I see. There are a few Amacs out on the east coast so a source for bodywork replacements may be convenient if you have the ability to do layups, or if there is someone close that does that. Good luck with the car!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 10rmotor View Post
    Thats not a horrible price. The shocks aren't cheap. I have to check but I think 68" sounds a bit wide. Where/how did you take that measurement? Does it have a diff? I'm going to guess it does, based on the other details I see. There are a few Amacs out on the east coast so a source for bodywork replacements may be convenient if you have the ability to do layups, or if there is someone close that does that. Good luck with the car!
    I can make more body parts if needed since we have the molds, lay ups are not an issue. My father in law is a former F1 mechanic from way back in the day so between the two of us we can handle just about everything. He's 83 years old and lives with us, gets up each day and heads to our shop and works all day on the race cars. I had a fire in the Miata and he pretty much rebuilt the entire car from the frame up after the fire. Its a win win, keeps him busy and we will have the cars after he is gone to remember him with.

    I asked the seller for measurements cause I wanted to build a wood table type frame that the car can go under and the molds on top for inside our trailer. He came back with 68" at the widest part. When I get it next week I can be more exact for you if need be.

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  19. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHOLLIS711 View Post
    I can make more body parts if needed since we have the molds, lay ups are not an issue. My father in law is a former F1 mechanic from way back in the day so between the two of us we can handle just about everything. He's 83 years old and lives with us, gets up each day and heads to our shop and works all day on the race cars. I had a fire in the Miata and he pretty much rebuilt the entire car from the frame up after the fire. Its a win win, keeps him busy and we will have the cars after he is gone to remember him with.

    I asked the seller for measurements cause I wanted to build a wood table type frame that the car can go under and the molds on top for inside our trailer. He came back with 68" at the widest part. When I get it next week I can be more exact for you if need be.
    Its not important really. We have the original molds out here in california of course but shipping from here to the east coast is a tall order these days, so knowing your molds are the same as what everyone else has is a plus. 68 now that I think about it is much wider. I want to say it should be around 62". A lot of us split the center section in half so that its easier to remove, and our center section is installed with screws and not solid mounted with rivets.

    You will want to make new filler panels to fully enclose the front and rear sidepods on the center section. At the front you will get rocks and dirt thrown up from the tires inside. Same goes for the rear tires and in addition those panels are considered part of the firewall so it needs to be filled in.

  20. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10rmotor View Post
    Its not important really. We have the original molds out here in california of course but shipping from here to the east coast is a tall order these days, so knowing your molds are the same as what everyone else has is a plus. 68 now that I think about it is much wider. I want to say it should be around 62". A lot of us split the center section in half so that its easier to remove, and our center section is installed with screws and not solid mounted with rivets.
    Yeah Im in Alabama, will have the molds and car here from Michigan on Tuesday next week.

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    Whats a good tire brand to run on these cars? Not venturing near a track until the ancient ones are replaced. Hoosiers, are on there, any other suggestions. And can anyone recommend a vendor that can ship tires to me, then I can have them mounted locally. At the races we have tire guys but I am going to do a track day or two with this new car and they usually dont have tire vendors at those events. - Thx

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    Hoosier Tire
    Clinton TN
    865-457-9888
    They ship

    or go to a SE SCCA event where they attend... like say, Barber.

    Go with what the car car is already set up for.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Purple Frog View Post
    Hoosier Tire
    Clinton TN
    865-457-9888
    They ship

    or go to a SE SCCA event where they attend... like say, Barber.

    Go with what the car car is already set up for.
    Thx, appreciate it, I will check what Barber has coming up on the calendar, its only about an hour from us.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WHOLLIS711 View Post
    Thx, appreciate it, I will check what Barber has coming up on the calendar, its only about an hour from us.
    The Hoosier truck can bring them there for, mount them too if you need. OTOH, I've had tires shipped to my work address and mounted myself. That saved me a few dollars for mounting, plus I didn't have to wait for them to be done at the track. I like getting there ready to go.
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  26. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Purple Frog View Post
    Hoosier Tire
    Clinton TN
    865-457-9888
    They ship

    or go to a SE SCCA event where they attend... like say, Barber.

    Go with what the car car is already set up for.
    Frog, you're trying to hook him up with dirt tires lol. That's the number to Hoosier Dirt South

    Needs, Appalachian Race Tire who does the track side service for the South East

    865-681-6622

    They are in the same warehouse as Hoosier Road and Drag South. (865) 984-3232. Either of those numbers will get him the road race tire info, Tires shipped or brought to the track

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  28. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by TedV View Post
    Frog, you're trying to hook him up with dirt tires lol. That's the number to Hoosier Dirt South

    Needs, Appalachian Race Tire who does the track side service for the South East

    865-681-6622

    They are in the same warehouse as Hoosier Road and Drag South. (865) 984-3232. Either of those numbers will get him the road race tire info, Tires shipped or brought to the track
    Thx, I emailed they guy at Appalachian earlier, they are who I get my tires from at Roebling Road.

  29. #22
    Senior Member 924RACR's Avatar
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    There was one pic of the car mowing the lawn at Waterford back around 2000! Looks pretty much the same as your pics.

    Welcome to the P2 party! Car looks like a good starting point; chassis and all look better and more modern than a lot of the old DSRs running around. Would definitely be ideal if you can identify the actual donor chassis for those arms, etc, for spares.

    If the weight isn't too bad, you could definitely have some fun with it, especially if you can work up to a modern Suzuki motor...
    Vaughan Scott
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    Barber will have a TT session for Wings N Things that you could run this car in. Plenty of track time to sort the car out. Hoosier will be there to handle tires. August 24-25 may be a bit too soon for you but who knows? TT does not require homologation papers but will need up to date safety equipment. If you think you can be there, let me know and we can work something out.


    i have the set-up information that I used on my AMAC AM7 which you are welcome to. Not sure how it applies to your new car but it could be a starting point. 10rmotor has a lot of information as well.

    Drop me a note at farrout48 <at> gmail
    Craig Farr
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    Senior Member 924RACR's Avatar
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    Hoosier bias bly slicks would seem the obvious choice, clearly has been running those, just a question of compound and sizing at that point...
    Vaughan Scott
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farrout48 View Post
    Barber will have a TT session for Wings N Things that you could run this car in. Plenty of track time to sort the car out. Hoosier will be there to handle tires. August 24-25 may be a bit too soon for you but who knows? TT does not require homologation papers but will need up to date safety equipment. If you think you can be there, let me know and we can work something out.


    i have the set-up information that I used on my AMAC AM7 which you are welcome to. Not sure how it applies to your new car but it could be a starting point. 10rmotor has a lot of information as well.

    Drop me a note at farrout48 <at> gmail
    Emailed you.......thx

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    Quote Originally Posted by 924RACR View Post
    There was one pic of the car mowing the lawn at Waterford back around 2000! Looks pretty much the same as your pics.

    Welcome to the P2 party! Car looks like a good starting point; chassis and all look better and more modern than a lot of the old DSRs running around. Would definitely be ideal if you can identify the actual donor chassis for those arms, etc, for spares.

    If the weight isn't too bad, you could definitely have some fun with it, especially if you can work up to a modern Suzuki motor...
    Is that pic of the lawnmower around?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 924RACR View Post
    I was going to post that I don't believe homologation is even required any more to run P1/P2... but I rechecked and I was wrong!

    If it does become necessary to homologate it, feel free to hit me up, I did go through this process for my car when it was initially built as a DSR, happy to share knowledge. It wasn't too bad a process, IMO - main thing being to have lots of pics to document content, design, and construction, and a website to share those through...
    Since this isn't an AMAC or another Spec line P2 car and appears to be a one off, as long as it meets the SCCA roll bar rules, it won't need homologation.
    Check this post.
    A little misunderstanding - Homologation (apexspeed.com)

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    Quote Originally Posted by CARSHouston View Post
    Since this isn't an AMAC or another Spec line P2 car and appears to be a one off, as long as it meets the SCCA roll bar rules, it won't need homologation.
    Check this post.
    A little misunderstanding - Homologation (apexspeed.com)
    Thanks, working on getting it up to spec per the GCR now, belts, fuel cell, fire system, etc., so we can get it tech'd and a new log book. Also checking its eligible for vintage / SVRA

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    Quote Originally Posted by WHOLLIS711 View Post
    Is that pic of the lawnmower around?
    It was posted in the Facebook Waterford Hills group... will dig out a link and post here...
    Vaughan Scott
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHOLLIS711 View Post
    Thanks, working on getting it up to spec per the GCR now, belts, fuel cell, fire system, etc., so we can get it tech'd and a new log book. Also checking its eligible for vintage / SVRA
    If the check clears, its eligible!

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    Try this for the Waterford Hills thread...
    https://www.facebook.com/share/p/6HMdU1Q6Hfw4qL8v/
    Vaughan Scott
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    Hi Walt,

    I remember seeing that for sale, I messaged the seller about the molds but got no response. Glad it went to a good home. I have been racing an AMAC for several years just a little north of you. I'm happy to help you out however I can feel free to message me. I can also make you control arms and other parts if you ever need some. I am not sure how long I will keep racing the AMAC at this point with the rules changing but if I do I might be really interested to buy or rent those molds if you are willing!

    Thanks
    Pat

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    Quote Originally Posted by patman View Post
    Hi Walt,

    I remember seeing that for sale, I messaged the seller about the molds but got no response. Glad it went to a good home. I have been racing an AMAC for several years just a little north of you. I'm happy to help you out however I can feel free to message me. I can also make you control arms and other parts if you ever need some. I am not sure how long I will keep racing the AMAC at this point with the rules changing but if I do I might be really interested to buy or rent those molds if you are willing!

    Thanks
    Pat
    You'll need a CNC machine to make those suspension pieces, its not an Amac, just AM-7 bodywork.

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    I have used it a few times at track days, great fun car, feels like a oversized shifter cart. We have been sorting it out, updated all of the safety equipment, fire bottle, etc. Lots of things needed attention since it was with an owner for the last few years after he got it an estate sale who didnt know much and just let it sit in his barn. It had coolant flow issues and it blew a head gasket, we sorted the coolant system out and put a new head gasket on it and its running fine again. Also, the wiring was a mess, and lot of home depot nuts and bolts some metric, some SAE, drives me nuts, made those changes as well.

    Painting it this week and then likely I will put it up for sale. Its fun, but I just dont have the time to run and maintain two race cars, I am not sure what I was thinking on finding the time to run two cars. I like getting cars sorted that have been ignored, its almost there and then I will be listing it for sale.

    - Walt

  44. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10rmotor View Post
    You'll need a CNC machine to make those suspension pieces, its not an Amac, just AM-7 bodywork.
    Actually I think they would be easier to make than a welded tube one. Waterjet the shape from aluminum plate and machine the bores and snap ring grooves. But I do have a CNC machine.....

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  46. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by patman View Post
    Actually I think they would be easier to make than a welded tube one. Waterjet the shape from aluminum plate and machine the bores and snap ring grooves. But I do have a CNC machine.....
    I agree it would be easier but I don't have one, so.....

    What I would like to see is a billet version of our uprights. Fast Forward doesn't want to make the castings (unless we get a large quantity) so a replacement source would be nice.

  47. #37
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    It seems quite possible that a certain AMAC might go up for sale soon, along with a considerable number of spares.... I'll call or email you if I do.

  48. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by patman View Post
    It seems quite possible that a certain AMAC might go up for sale soon, along with a considerable number of spares.... I'll call or email you if I do.
    Ok, lmk about the spares part, I'm still in the market for a few bits.....

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