Pinto 2.0L dry sump issues

[redcar9]

Putting this back together and I'm finding a lot of strange things that I don't understand.

1. It seems like someone melted what looked like copper to hold these metal filters on the scavenge pipes which had a lot of dirt / debris. Are the filters needed?
2. The tubes have chunks of kinda loose metal. I want to replace them. Are these the same scavenge pipes? https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=3644

3. Can the pressure adjustment screw be flipped over so it's on the outside of the engine and not under it?
4. There are not any threads showing on the front side of the four pump mounting bolts. Should I adjust the bolts?

Pictures.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/18jrs...=k0yy6eph&dl=0

[tlracer]

It's normal to have mesh filters on the scavenge lines, to avoid any big shards of metal (eg. from an engine blow-up) getting through from the pan to the pump and wrecking it.

They look like they haven been brazed to the outlets, but have broken away? As the sump is a TDC part, I'd contact Fast Forward about replacement fittings to be sure you get the correct type. Different manufacturers seem to have their own 'preferred' way to do things!

Speak to Fast Forward about the pump too as that's a TDC unit. I'm sure they will be able to advise.

The picture of a TDC pump on FF's website shows the studs/nuts exactly as yours, ie. threads showing at one end only.

[BeerBudgetRacing]

1. Filters should be used.
2. No - not the same. Nothing wrong with yours. Just need some cleanup. The o-rings can be bought from McMaster.

I bought SS screen from McMaster and some similar sized safety wire and 'knitted' my own.

I don't think they need to be brazed into the tubes since it's all under vacuum.

As mentioned, call Doug at Fast Forward. He's got more answers than you have problems

[tlracer]

I don't think they need to be brazed into the tubes since it's all under vacuum.

Yep, as long as the screen can't move and leave a gap for debris to get past.

If you want to fix it in some way, make the screen tube longer than the depth of the outlet ports, pull the mesh so the diameter reduces enough to go into the scavenge pipe and bond them in with epoxy.

[BeerBudgetRacing]

Yep, as long as the screen can't move and leave a gap for debris to get past.

If you want to fix it in some way, make the screen tube longer than the depth of the outlet ports, pull the mesh so the diameter reduces enough to go into the scavenge pipe and bond them in with epoxy.

I did use the high temp JB Weld on my tank pickup screen. Can't remember if I did on the pan pickups - but I'm thinking yes.
https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-3790...dp/B01IBOBY74/

When used right the stuff is amazing.

[redcar9]

I talked to Doug he was a huge help! Thanks so much to the input on this one. Doug was able to answer all of my questions.


https://www.fastforwardracingcomponents.com/