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  1. #1
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    Default fixes for loose venturis?

    After many hours my 32/36 has a venturi that's rattling about. Are there any recognized fixes for this tat really work? I'm going to buy a new one anyway but I'd love to be able to use this one as a spare.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner View Post
    After many hours my 32/36 has a venturi that's rattling about. Are there any recognized fixes for this tat really work? I'm going to buy a new one anyway but I'd love to be able to use this one as a spare.
    I can't help with this too much, but check out this guy on ebay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ssn....m3561.l161211

    I've bought lots from him and it's always been great and at good prices. He's in Bologna too.

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    Contributing Member Hawke's Avatar
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    A couple of Center punches on the non sealing side of the body has worked for me.

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  5. #4
    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawke View Post
    A couple of Center punches on the non sealing side of the body has worked for me.
    I did that several times over the years with a Weber 32/36.
    Dave Weitzenhof

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  7. #5
    Senior Member kea's Avatar
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    Default Loose Venturi

    Quote Originally Posted by Hawke View Post
    A couple of Center punches on the non sealing side of the body has worked for me.
    I've done the same thing, but use a small flat face punch. Moves more material and less noticeable
    Keith
    Averill Racing Stuff, Inc.
    www.racing-stuff.com
    248-585-9139

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  9. #6
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    doesn't the carb still suck air around the venturi instead of through it?

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    Classifieds Super License Rick Iverson's Avatar
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    Rick:

    I would think so.

    Contact Jim Inglese, jiminglese@proton.me, (203) 632-0659, https://jiminglese.com/jim-inglese-8-stack-systems.

    Nobody on the planet knows Webers like he does. He has done 48 IDAs and 40 and 45 DCOEs for me. Excellent service, good Gent.


    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner View Post
    doesn't the carb still suck air around the venturi instead of through it?
    V/r

    Iverson

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    Classifieds Super License stonebridge20's Avatar
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    A couple of walks with a flat punch and hammer of your choice to the side of the carb works pretty well.
    Stonebridge Sports & Classics ltd
    15 Great Pasture Rd Danbury, CT. 06810 (203) 744-1120
    www.cryosciencetechnologies.com
    Cryogenic Processing · REM-ISF Processing · Race Prep & Driver Development

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  13. #9
    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner View Post
    doesn't the carb still suck air around the venturi instead of through it?
    Most of the air flows around the venturi in any case. All you're trying to do is seal the contact surface where the fuel gets sucked in so it doesn't pull air instead of fuel.
    Dave Weitzenhof

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  15. #10
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    Default

    Some have used vert thin shim stock

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    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrh3 View Post
    Some have used very thin shim stock
    That'll work unless it gets loose and sucked into the engine.
    Last edited by DaveW; 09.17.24 at 8:47 AM.
    Dave Weitzenhof

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner View Post
    After many hours my 32/36 has a venturi that's rattling about. Are there any recognized fixes for this tat really work? I'm going to buy a new one anyway but I'd love to be able to use this one as a spare.

    I always shim them I dont like using a punch on the carb body.

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  20. #13
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    Id think that a shim coupled with some thin high-temp sealant would be the way to go. Hadn't thought about shimming.

  21. #14
    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    Don't use sealant on the inlet end - it might block the fuel passage.
    Dave Weitzenhof

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  23. #15
    Classifieds Super License Rick Iverson's Avatar
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    Rick:

    Another thought.

    My new rear hubs are slip fit into the rear new upright bearings. That is to say, the hub flange effortlessly slips into the bearing race. As explained to me, the anodizing of the hubs were decorative in nature as opposed to MIL-SPEC. The difference in the two processes is a couple thou in diameter. Thus, the MIL-SPEC anodized is press in.

    I contacted Loctite, and spoke with their racing tech, to understand there is a bearing adhesive to 0.020” to secure bearing ID/OD areas.

    I have the two item part numbers (one, the sealant, one, the cleaner). Biggest issue: 400 Fahrenheit to break the bond. This will most definitely eliminate the air bypass issue, and a THIN coat might release easier.
    V/r

    Iverson

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner View Post
    Id think that a shim coupled with some thin high-temp sealant would be the way to go. Hadn't thought about shimming.
    I've always used a little bit of an aluminium coke can as a shim, works perfectly.

  26. #17
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    Default Venturi squeeze

    Rick, the best solution I have found is to take the Venturi out and gently squeeze it in a vice (use soft jaws or a rag) perpendicular to the tube axis to deform and create a tight fit to the body at the port. Does a better job of sealing to the port and lasts longer than the peening of body. I’ll be at Buttonwillow this weekend if you want to talk about it. Todd

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  28. #18
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks Todd! Unfortunately I won't be there. Hope you guys have a good event.

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