fixes for loose venturis?

[Rick Kirchner]

After many hours my 32/36 has a venturi that's rattling about. Are there any recognized fixes for this tat really work? I'm going to buy a new one anyway but I'd love to be able to use this one as a spare.

[romoman]

After many hours my 32/36 has a venturi that's rattling about. Are there any recognized fixes for this tat really work? I'm going to buy a new one anyway but I'd love to be able to use this one as a spare.

I can't help with this too much, but check out this guy on ebay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ssn....m3561.l161211

I've bought lots from him and it's always been great and at good prices. He's in Bologna too.

[Hawke]

A couple of Center punches on the non sealing side of the body has worked for me.

[DaveW]

A couple of Center punches on the non sealing side of the body has worked for me.

I did that several times over the years with a Weber 32/36.

[kea]

A couple of Center punches on the non sealing side of the body has worked for me.

I've done the same thing, but use a small flat face punch. Moves more material and less noticeable

[Rick Kirchner]

doesn't the carb still suck air around the venturi instead of through it?

[Rick Iverson]

Rick:

I would think so.

Contact Jim Inglese, jiminglese@proton.me, (203) 632-0659, https://jiminglese.com/jim-inglese-8-stack-systems.

Nobody on the planet knows Webers like he does. He has done 48 IDAs and 40 and 45 DCOEs for me. Excellent service, good Gent.

doesn't the carb still suck air around the venturi instead of through it?

[stonebridge20]

A couple of walks with a flat punch and hammer of your choice to the side of the carb works pretty well.

[DaveW]

doesn't the carb still suck air around the venturi instead of through it?

Most of the air flows around the venturi in any case. All you're trying to do is seal the contact surface where the fuel gets sucked in so it doesn't pull air instead of fuel.

[jrh3]

Some have used vert thin shim stock

[DaveW]

Some have used very thin shim stock

That'll work unless it gets loose and sucked into the engine.

[eospeed]

After many hours my 32/36 has a venturi that's rattling about. Are there any recognized fixes for this tat really work? I'm going to buy a new one anyway but I'd love to be able to use this one as a spare.

I always shim them I dont like using a punch on the carb body.

[Rick Kirchner]

Id think that a shim coupled with some thin high-temp sealant would be the way to go. Hadn't thought about shimming.

[DaveW]

Don't use sealant on the inlet end - it might block the fuel passage.

[Rick Iverson]

Rick:

Another thought.

My new rear hubs are slip fit into the rear new upright bearings. That is to say, the hub flange effortlessly slips into the bearing race. As explained to me, the anodizing of the hubs were decorative in nature as opposed to MIL-SPEC. The difference in the two processes is a couple thou in diameter. Thus, the MIL-SPEC anodized is press in.

I contacted Loctite, and spoke with their racing tech, to understand there is a bearing adhesive to 0.020” to secure bearing ID/OD areas.

I have the two item part numbers (one, the sealant, one, the cleaner). Biggest issue: 400 Fahrenheit to break the bond. This will most definitely eliminate the air bypass issue, and a THIN coat might release easier.

[Vne165]

Id think that a shim coupled with some thin high-temp sealant would be the way to go. Hadn't thought about shimming.

I've always used a little bit of an aluminium coke can as a shim, works perfectly.

[tstrong]

Rick, the best solution I have found is to take the Venturi out and gently squeeze it in a vice (use soft jaws or a rag) perpendicular to the tube axis to deform and create a tight fit to the body at the port. Does a better job of sealing to the port and lasts longer than the peening of body. I’ll be at Buttonwillow this weekend if you want to talk about it. Todd

[Rick Kirchner]

Thanks Todd! Unfortunately I won't be there. Hope you guys have a good event.

[Mike B]

My new rear hubs are slip fit into the rear new upright bearings. That is to say, the hub flange effortlessly slips into the bearing race. As explained to me, the anodizing of the hubs were decorative in nature as opposed to MIL-SPEC. The difference in the two processes is a couple thou in diameter. Thus, the MIL-SPEC anodized is press in.

Small digression:

When I was making RF90-95 hubs I always had them hard anodized, not decorative. They were machined to compensate for the hard anodize thickness and were a shrink fit. If yours are a slip fit and not hard anodized I suspect you will have nothing but problems and they likely won't last long. Those 6 long capscrews will not be enough to hold them together. Your hubs are likely defective.

[EYERACE]

if an air horn fits down the throat well enough it might just hold the auxiliary venturi from the top such that it's tight in place ??

if that's true, the tired carb is simply begging you to get it some air horns

[DaveW]

if an air horn fits down the throat well enough it might just hold the auxiliary venturi from the top such that it's tight in place ??

if that's true, the tired carb is simply begging you to get it some air horns

Even if it holds it in place that doesn't assure the fuel-supply face is sealed to the carb body, and that's important.

[Rick Iverson]

Mike:

These are new, never assembled hubs fresh from Primus. I will bring up your concerns and observations with Brad, and see if a recall may be in order. Thanks Bud, for pointing this out.

Small digression:

When I was making RF90-95 hubs I always had them hard anodized, not decorative. They were machined to compensate for the hard anodize thickness and were a shrink fit. If yours are a slip fit and not hard anodized I suspect you will have nothing but problems and they likely won't last long. Those 6 long capscrews will not be enough to hold them together. Your hubs are likely defective.

[Rick Iverson]

Mike:

Good stuff here, Bud.

There is nothing I can do but use Loctite 609, a specifically designed compound for precisely this application. Thoughts?

Small digression:

When I was making RF90-95 hubs I always had them hard anodized, not decorative. They were machined to compensate for the hard anodize thickness and were a shrink fit. If yours are a slip fit and not hard anodized I suspect you will have nothing but problems and they likely won't last long. Those 6 long capscrews will not be enough to hold them together. Your hubs are likely defective.

[Rick Kirchner]

Took the carb apart today and I ended up using .003 brass shim stock behind the solid side, and peening. It was really loose - the amount of fretting in the slots was impressive.

[Mike B]

Mike:

Good stuff here, Bud.

There is nothing I can do but use Loctite 609, a specifically designed compound for precisely this application. Thoughts?

Get them hard anodized.

[Rick Iverson]

Mike:

That was the advice of Paul.

Get them hard anodized.