Toy hauler?

[Lastminuteracin]

Anybody use a toy hauler with their car? I’ve got one I’ve used with my Superkart. While my Supervee will physically fit the ramp angle will prove difficult. Any solutions aside from a different trailer?

[Lotus7]

Break angle difficulties not withstanding, check the weight rating of both the toy hauler floor and the ramp.

[DanW]

No personal experience, but from others I have raced with, overcoming both the ramp angle and clearing the angle of the opening are a big pain because the toyhauler boxes are so high off the ground. In my 7x18 Featherlite trailer, I have to raise the tongue about 30" just so the chassis clears the hinge/floor area.

[Rick Kirchner]

I hauled my FC and a 72FSV in a 25' Carson for 10 years.

Buy a set of trailer leveling jacks and attach them to the TOP of the door. Now you can adjust the final ramp angle.

No ****, the ramps themselves were a complete PITA. You need 10-12 feet behind the door, and they will NOT be stiff enough when made from 2" lumber to hold the car. You have to take some 2x4's and essentially make a I-beam out of it all. 12" ramps will weigh over 50 lb each. You might even need to put shoring under the ramps in the middle.

If you got the dough you could have a set of ramps made out of aluminum - a 4x12 sheet will give you four sheets that you can rivet to box tubing to get a torsion box that will be strong enough.

Other than that the biggest PITA is having to roll the car and put the fuel out to sleep.

[CGOffroad]

A friend has a toy hauler 'glamping rig' he takes to the track. It is a triple axle. To load his car he has hydraulic jacks for hitching and unhitching. He maxes out the hydraulic jacks and lifts the nose of trailer as much as possible. His trailer is extra height which creates a bit longer loading door. He has 4 pieces of RaceRamps. 2 per side and they lock together so total length of RaceRamp is like 8-10'. The trailer door rests on the highest end of RaceRamps. He has to take the nose off the car, AND has 18' motorcycle wheels with large tires for transport. He can get in the car, start it and drive in the trailer. The whole show looks a bit like a circus.... but it works and he attends multiple events through the year with it.


This is not the set he has. But, I put this link so you can see how the two pieces of RaceRamp 'lock' together.

https://www.raceramps.com/ramps/magn...restyle-in-16/

[Craig71188]

As has been said, check weight capacity - some toy haulers are so overloaded before you put a "toy" in them they shouldn't even have been built.
Toy haulers built by travel trailer companies are notoriously weak in the doors - toy haulers built by cargo trailer companies tend to be better built (my opinion) and stronger in the door area - and more likely to have cargo (weight) capacity.
Breakover height always seems to be the key issue. Race ramps, transport wheels, beaver tail, jack in front of trailer - all or some combination will almost always be needed

I really like mine - I would need to maintain a trailer anyway - and this one hauls the car and provides the wife her "comfort space" at the track. Yes, using the pickup bed to haul spares (in our case) means some extra loading/unloading for the weekend (rather than having a permanent home in the trailer for some stuff), but for us, not having the hassle of maintaining/storing a motorhome AND a trailer is well worth it.

[10rmotor]

I have a mirage/balboa triple bumper pull toy hauler. I chose that one, though I'm sure there are others, that have torsion axles and not springs. I chose those because the trailer sits lower to the ground making it easier to load my DSR/P2 car. In addition, once I got it, it was setup with fairly high ground clearance. Since I'm not off roading it, I clocked the swing arms up lowering it even more. Never had any problems. I do need to prop the loading ramp up on short chassis stands, lift the tongue up, and use extension 2 X 6 boards, and the rear is beaver tailed.

[mikey]

Both of my toy haulers are built by horse trailer companies. They are plenty robust compared to many other toy haulers and the garages are normal car hauler height. Easy in and out with the formula car.

[Lastminuteracin]

Mine is a Carson. I’ll double check but I’m pretty sure the door can handle it. It’s set up with some cables and an awning so it can be used as a deck also. I like the idea of flipping the axles. I’ll have to look at that although wheel well clearance might be an issue. I will need to remove the nose for sure. I very much like the creature comforts when staying at the track and would really like to make it work.

[Rick Kirchner]

Mine was a Carson. They make far better toyhaulers than others on the market. Back then beds/benches had to be made and they sucked. Nowadays most of it is flexsteel and it's much better.

I bolted my rollaway through the floor. It was a PITA to take in and out after races, so I just decided that the box would be a permanent feature and it does come in handy even when camping. I also used it as the front stop for the car.

Speaking of camping - The problem with toyhaulers is that they have a TON of space, and all of it is nearly unusable. If you have storage space the trick is to fabricate a set of bunks or shelves that you can put across the ramp door to make the vehicle more useable on non-race weekends.

I'll also say this - it is VERY difficult to mount stuff to the walls. Your cabinets are thru-bolted from the OUTSIDE to the studs, and then the siding is put over that. It's very strong. But trying to bullseye those thin wall studs to hold pull loads from the. inside - no. When I had mine built I specified a 1/2" beltline around the cargo area about a foot wide and 3 ft off the ground. Then I attached track to that with a zillion #12 sheet metal screws.

[HayesCages]

We've used our '04 Thor Tahoe Transport WTB 36 to haul our FC for 8 or 9 years. I built a set of ramps that fit inside the garage that lift the front of the chassis about 10" then use jack stands on the ramp door to match that angle, then add 12' ramps on the back of the ramp door.
I also remove the front crush box/wing mount so it'll fit in the 12' space.

Add a winch to get it up the ramps.

[Craig71188]

Add a winch to get it up the ramps.

YES, I wanted a winch and didn't want it "in the way" when not hauling a car. I also didn't want the hassle of cutting the floor and installing a recessed winch. Wound up with a Superwinch "WInch2Go". Basically a toolbox with the winch mounted inside and a plate on the bottom. Stores out of the way and can be pulled out and strapped in when needed.

Since it's portable, I can also use it to pull a car up my sloped driveway, I can tie it to a couple anchors in my garage floor and use there if needed as well.

https://www.superwinch.com/en/winche...inch2go-series

[10rmotor]

YES, I wanted a winch and didn't want it "in the way" when not hauling a car. I also didn't want the hassle of cutting the floor and installing a recessed winch. Wound up with a Superwinch "WInch2Go". Basically a toolbox with the winch mounted inside and a plate on the bottom. Stores out of the way and can be pulled out and strapped in when needed.

Since it's portable, I can also use it to pull a car up my sloped driveway, I can tie it to a couple anchors in my garage floor and use there if needed as well.

https://www.superwinch.com/en/winche...inch2go-series

I made a war wagon with two tool boxes in it for parts and tools and mounted a winch on the bottom of it. Pushing it into the trailer up the ramp is a pita so It has a long electrical cord that plugs into a receptacle in the front of the trailer. I roll that up to the ramp door first, plug in the cord and unwind the cable and use the winch to pull the cart into the trailer first. It gets turned around, strapped down, and then I use the winch again to pull the car into the trailer. If its a short event I can just leave the car inside and loading and unloading the car is even easier.