Help identifying this car.

[FerranteRacing]

I posted this in the section for P2 cars and did get a little information, but I am looking for any information I can find on identifying the body on this car. We have determined the chassis was not built by a "race shop" or chassis builder of sport racers, even though it is well built. I purchased this car a few weeks ago and the owner had no paperwork and no idea about anything about the car. It has been sitting for a few years and I am in the process of rebuilding it to hopefully do some SCCA Time Trials with. It is currently powered by a Kawasaki KZ1000. the car is currently running, and in the process of redoing all the wiring and brakes. The guy who had it bought it for his grandson to race autocross with but he had no interest in it. The car came out of central Florida and there are NO numbers anywhere on the chassis. NO tags, nothing... At this point I would be happy to just identify the body...

[10rmotor]

Thats not a kz1000 motor. Those were air cooled. This is either a 900 or 1000r. There is a stamp on the cylinder block on the left or right side underneath the carbs, can't remember which, that will say what it is. If it is not dry sumped it will probably be short lived as these motors had several oiling problems, most of which were fixed with a dry sump pan which was typically a modified pan. If it has one of these pans it is easily identified externally.

[FerranteRacing]

Thats not a kz1000 motor. Those were air cooled. This is either a 900 or 1000r. .

Got looking closer it is a 900. thank you. have to look at it again to see if it has the dry sump on it,

[10rmotor]

Got looking closer it is a 900. thank you. have to look at it again to see if it has the dry sump on it,

The obvious answer is does it have a dry sump tank present? The pans we made had either a -10 or -12 scavenge port on one side if I remember correctly.

[CSasfai]

I can't offer any help identifying the car, but I, too, live in Anderson (off of Reed Road; fairly close to AnMed North Campus) and run a couple formula cars. The control arms on yours look much like those on a Formula Mazda. I'd be glad to offer input and would love to see it when you get it sorted out.

[FerranteRacing]

I can't offer any help identifying the car, but I, too, live in Anderson (off of Reed Road; fairly close to AnMed North Campus) and run a couple formula cars. The control arms on yours look much like those on a Formula Mazda. I'd be glad to offer input and would love to see it when you get it sorted out.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am just getting started with all of this after 25 years of Drag Racing. I am just south of Anderson below Homeland park.

[FerranteRacing]

The obvious answer is does it have a dry sump tank present? The pans we made had either a -10 or -12 scavenge port on one side if I remember correctly.

Got out to the shop this afternoon, no there is no dry sump.

[10rmotor]

Got out to the shop this afternoon, no there is no dry sump.

Well if you continue running that motor very hard a pan is a requirement. Aaannnd, I just happen to have a few of them sitting on my shelves, being the pack rat that I am! Anyway without a pan pay very close attention to the oil level. I can't offer you any info on how to determine the level since we ran a dry sump from the very start as the problems with that motor and its later big brother the zx10 were mostly already known when we were building Amac DSRs. Good luck.

[FerranteRacing]

Well if you continue running that motor very hard a pan is a requirement. Aaannnd, I just happen to have a few of them sitting on my shelves, being the pack rat that I am! Anyway without a pan pay very close attention to the oil level. I can't offer you any info on how to determine the level since we ran a dry sump from the very start as the problems with that motor and its later big brother the zx10 were mostly already known when we were building Amac DSRs. Good luck.

Thank you, I would be interested in one for sure. Current plan is to run the car at some local autocross events just to get a feel for it, then try some time trials or something to get some real driving experience with it. Doubt I will ever do competitive racing at just about 60 years young, but i do want to experience the feel of what this car can do.

[924RACR]

...Doubt I will ever do competitive racing at just about 60 years young, but i do want to experience the feel of what this car can do.

Meh... I think that's about average age for P1/P2 grids anyway!

[FerranteRacing]

Meh... I think that's about average age for P1/P2 grids anyway!

Thanks, we are going to watch a race this weekend so I will get a better idea of what I am looking at.

[lowside67]

Does the car have a logbook? Without that, it will not be allowed on track with most organizations for competitive purposes. At first glance, the pedals appear to be in front of the front axle line which has been outlawed for decades now and would require a logbook from before the rules were changed.

-Mark

[FerranteRacing]

Does the car have a logbook? Without that, it will not be allowed on track with most organizations for competitive purposes. At first glance, the pedals appear to be in front of the front axle line which has been outlawed for decades now and would require a logbook from before the rules were changed.

-Mark

Unfortunately there is NO log book or information of any sorts. As far as I have seen, the car will be usable in autocross, was not sure about much else. I guess for what I have in it, I can use it for getting started and look for something newer.

[Garey Guzman]

Unfortunately there is NO log book or information of any sorts. As far as I have seen, the car will be usable in autocross, was not sure about much else. I guess for what I have in it, I can use it for getting started and look for something newer.

Did you already look on the roll bar to see if it's got an SCCA number stamped on it? If it does, you can get a duplicate logbook and maybe some historical information from the original SCCA tech process. It's usually something like "xx-yyyy" where xx is the Region number it was originally teched in and yyyy is the sequential number

[FerranteRacing]

Did you already look on the roll bar to see if it's got an SCCA number stamped on it? If it does, you can get a duplicate logbook and maybe some historical information from the original SCCA tech process. It's usually something like "xx-yyyy" where xx is the Region number it was originally teched in and yyyy is the sequential number

Yes, and unfortunately have not found anything yet. I am still looking however as I clean it up. I am hoping it is just tucked in behind something or covered in heavy paint... well I can hope....

[10rmotor]

Yes, and unfortunately have not found anything yet. I am still looking however as I clean it up. I am hoping it is just tucked in behind something or covered in heavy paint... well I can hope....

Unless it was stamped before it was painted, which isn't likely, you should be able to see a number stamped on the bar if it has been stamped. My chassis is powder coated and was then stamped for its first event and its definitely visible. I'm guessing there are no event tech stickers on the bar? That would be a giveaway.

[FerranteRacing]

Unless it was stamped before it was painted, which isn't likely, you should be able to see a number stamped on the bar if it has been stamped. My chassis is powder coated and was then stamped for its first event and its definitely visible. I'm guessing there are no event tech stickers on the bar? That would be a giveaway.

Nothing, the body looks like it was repainted and no numbers or anything.

OH well, it will be a fun autocross car.

[DanW]

Nothing, the body looks like it was repainted and no numbers or anything.

OH well, it will be a fun autocross car.

Umm, no. No matter the region or the tech inspectors, they will stamp numbers the roll hoop on drivers right before issuing a log book. Carefully inspect the roll bar, drivers right side.

There should be a 3/16" drilled hole on the inside of the vertical portion of the bar and a stamped number on the outside vertical portion of the bar, likely near the dzus fastener tab, the forward/aft braces or nearby. Several coats of paint and the numbers disappear. Try some sandpaper or acetone to remove the paint.

Good luck.

[FerranteRacing]

Umm, no. No matter the region or the tech inspectors, they will stamp numbers the roll hoop on drivers right before issuing a log book. Carefully inspect the roll bar, drivers right side.

There should be a 3/16" drilled hole on the inside of the vertical portion of the bar and a stamped number on the outside vertical portion of the bar, likely near the dzus fastener tab, the forward/aft braces or nearby. Several coats of paint and the numbers disappear. Try some sandpaper or acetone to remove the paint.

Good luck.

having the location to look helps. I will take some sand paper to it. There is a hole drilled in each of the sections of the chassis, so I will look closer on the drivers right side. Will be sanding the chassis soon anyway to prepare it for painting so i will definitely look for it.

[10rmotor]

I believe the stamp is on the drivers left side. The roll bar switch is on the right. I can look at mine when I get home tonight.

[FerranteRacing]

ok so just spoke to the guy I got the car from again. Turns out he purchased it from an estate sale and the family knew nothing about it and never bothered to see if there was any paperwork that went with the car. He did say the only thing they did know was their dad who had the car bought it from overseas. We did determine the last time period this car could have been raced is the late 90s into 2001 as the tires and safety gear is all dated in that era. So now the question comes in IF this was built and raced overseas do they use the same stamping codes? All I have is the guy who owned its last name as the estate sale was conducted from where the family lived and not where he was from. Beginning to lose hope, although there is enough here to build a new SCCA legal chassis and swap everything over from this car. IF needed that may be an option.

[10rmotor]

So if I can ask, what did you pay for the car?

I'm sure the numbering scheme is different than what scca uses, and if thats your goal you might as well treat it as a new car. Hopefully the wall thickness and type of material is correct for the various areas of the chassis.

[FerranteRacing]

So if I can ask, what did you pay for the car?

I'm sure the numbering scheme is different than what scca uses, and if thats your goal you might as well treat it as a new car. Hopefully the wall thickness and type of material is correct for the various areas of the chassis.

I gave the guy $2500 for it, and it came with a new set of tires fronts and rears that he just bought, they are still in the boxes.

The car runs, needs brakes, and have to make a few minor adjustments to the seat/steering configuration so I fit in it better. I am going to start out with doing autocross as I have never done any road racing before. figure this will give me the chance to learn how it turns and throttle response. Then we may do some time trials with it IF I can get it legal. I am already looking at building a new chassis for it using the components I have at some point just to update some things that I am not crazy about. Then again I may just enjoy outcrossing it enough that that will be it, and use the Corvette for track days and time trials.

[10rmotor]

Sounds good. Good luck! Post more pictures when you have time.

[CARSHouston]

"Does the car have a logbook? Without that, it will not be allowed on track with most organizations for competitive purposes. At first glance, the pedals appear to be in front of the front axle line which has been outlawed for decades now and would require a logbook from before the rules were changed."

This is incorrect, the rule states this
"The soles of the driver’s feet shall not extend beyond the front edge of the wheel rims (in normal position (i.e., pedals not depressed) and shall remain behind the front bulkhead (per 9.4.5)."
From your photo your foot position seems fine.
Measure your roll bars, they need to be 1.375 X .080 at a minimum and the front and rear bracing needs to be at least 1 X .080.
If your bars and braces check out, I'd put off building a new chassis for now and just try running the car first and see what it needs.
Also check my post about homologation, if the bars and braces meet the rules it doesn't need to be homologated.

[FerranteRacing]

"Does the car have a logbook? Without that, it will not be allowed on track with most organizations for competitive purposes. At first glance, the pedals appear to be in front of the front axle line which has been outlawed for decades now and would require a logbook from before the rules were changed."

This is incorrect, the rule states this
"The soles of the driver’s feet shall not extend beyond the front edge of the wheel rims (in normal position (i.e., pedals not depressed) and shall remain behind the front bulkhead (per 9.4.5)."
From your photo your foot position seems fine.
Measure your roll bars, they need to be 1.375 X .080 at a minimum and the front and rear bracing needs to be at least 1 X .080.
If your bars and braces check out, I'd put off building a new chassis for now and just try running the car first and see what it needs.
Also check my post about homologation, if the bars and braces meet the rules it doesn't need to be homologated.

The bars were the first thing I checked. and yes they are up to standard. I am having to replace the two down braces from the cage forward, they made the car too restrictive to get in and out easily. Also adding some other bracing so I can fix the seat and how I sit in the car. Funny thing is in all of my searching I cant even find another car with the same body.

[CARSHouston]

To be honest, I've worked on a few DSR, but can't recall seeing this chassis or body, could be a one off.
Good luck with it.

[10rmotor]

"Does the car have a logbook? Without that, it will not be allowed on track with most organizations for competitive purposes. At first glance, the pedals appear to be in front of the front axle line which has been outlawed for decades now and would require a logbook from before the rules were changed."

This is incorrect, the rule states this
"The soles of the driver’s feet shall not extend beyond the front edge of the wheel rims (in normal position (i.e., pedals not depressed) and shall remain behind the front bulkhead (per 9.4.5)."
From your photo your foot position seems fine.
Measure your roll bars, they need to be 1.375 X .080 at a minimum and the front and rear bracing needs to be at least 1 X .080.
If your bars and braces check out, I'd put off building a new chassis for now and just try running the car first and see what it needs.
Also check my post about homologation, if the bars and braces meet the rules it doesn't need to be homologated.

Those tube dimensions are for 4130. Not sure what the main roll hoop needs to be for DOM or mild steel. The 1 X .080 I think needs to be .095 DOM at least, maybe more for mild steel. We used 4130 for the front hoop and roll bar, and DOM for the 1" side braces.

[Roland V. Johnson]

The SCCA is not the only game in town. There are Vintage race groups that should welcome the car at their events if the car is up to their more period standards. Check around.

[CARSHouston]

Those tube dimensions are for 4130. Not sure what the main roll hoop needs to be for DOM or mild steel. The 1 X .080 I think needs to be .095 DOM at least, maybe more for mild steel. We used 4130 for the front hoop and roll bar, and DOM for the 1" side braces.

Please check the current GCR, SCCA removed the difference between DOM and 4130 a while back, but I still use 1.375 X .095 DOM for hoops and 1 x .095 for the braces

[10rmotor]

Please check the current GCR, SCCA removed the difference between DOM and 4130 a while back, but I still use 1.375 X .095 DOM for hoops and 1 x .095 for the braces

I'll check it out thanks!

[Bill Schmidt]

Looks like a fun B-Mod car for solo events. Solo would be a great way to make a few shakedown runs before taking it to the track at high speeds.

[FerranteRacing]

Looks like a fun B-Mod car for solo events. Solo would be a great way to make a few shakedown runs before taking it to the track at high speeds.

Thats actually the plan. When I got the car the intention was autocross only, but the more I look into time trials I would like to give that a try at some point.