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  1. #1
    Contributing Member dsmithwc04's Avatar
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    Default New guy to P1/P2

    I'm looking to get back into racing in the near future and will be several years removed from FE. I'm looking at P1/P2 with a lot of interest since I can have similar or slightly faster experience (P2) or perhaps even jump into P1. What are reasonable options with a sub $40k budget? Looks like Stohr WF1 might be best option that fits my budget but curious of running costs within the different options. Any straight advice would be most appreciated.

    Dan
    I race communist race cars.

    "Smokey, this is not 'Nam. This is bowling, there are rules." - Walter Sobchak

  2. #2
    Contributing Member lowside67's Avatar
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    Default

    If you were ordering a brand new Stohr, the cost of a P1 car is not that much more than a P2 car since all the big tickets for the car - chassis, bodywork, etc are all identical - basically the difference is a few extra aero parts on a P1 car and a built motor and Geartronics. The cost to keep built motors on hand and rebuilt for P1 though is a fair bit higher than P2, this will be the biggest ongoing difference in expense.

    As a used car, it's important to realize that MOST Stohrs are in original DSR format which is somewhat "P1.5" and unfortunately will require some cost to either get to the pointy end of P1 or P2. Not to say you have to do it right away, but new P2 legal aero etc are all expensive as P1 legal aero so best to budget in advance.

    Either way, these cars are incredible. I've not driven a FE but loved the Formula Ford I spent some time in and yet the Stohr is another level yet and the sound is amazing!

    -Mark
    Mark Uhlmann
    Vancouver, Canada
    '12 Stohr WF1

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  4. #3
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    Default

    Dan, I looked at everything after I sold my FE2, and spent a lot of time figuring out what "competitive" would cost. Ballpark figure, after you buy the car, you're going to spend double on running costs in P2 compared to FE if you want to run up front at Majors or HST. More on tires (open, softer), fuel, repairs (carbon fiber), gears or chains, and engine rebuilds. I think $40k is probably a little low for a front running car, so you'll also have some capital expenses as well. I would start with considering what you want to do at what level.
    Last edited by LarryWinkelman; 03.24.23 at 3:04 PM.

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  6. #4
    Contributing Member CGOffroad's Avatar
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    Default Considerations prior to purchase

    A couple of things to consider and have a plan for prior to your purchase... Are you trailering to and from track yourself? Do you have crew to help you at the track?

    With trailering, a sports racer can be a little more challenging to get in the trailer than a formula car. It is quite simple to put large diameter transport wheels on a formula car to go in and out of trailer. Sports racers may require a bit more 'engineering' to get in and out of the trailer.

    Do you have someone to help you set the body panels on the car? If doing it by yourself, are the panels easy to mount with just one person? If not, will you be happy installing some really nice carbon bits on your front cover and then maybe have to drag it across ground because you can't manage by yourself?

    No hill is too difficult to figure out a way to cross, and shouldn't deter you from one car or another. Just know what the hills are before hand and how you plan to manage them. People will probably comment with some solutions to these topics after reading my post.

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  8. #5
    Senior Member Farrout48's Avatar
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    My WF1 had to be loaded into the trailer with a process to be successful. I was able to load and unload easily by myself. WF1 had to be loaded rear end first because the splitter was not removeable and was quite low and long. A remote controlled winch is essential as pushing the car did not work. The main trick was to get the extended ramps (long boards hinged to the rear door), the door (on blocks), and the trailer floor into the same plane. Used a powered tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer. Had to use the front Stohr jack to keep the splitter from dragging on the ground for a short distance until the front wheels got onto the ramps. Overall, not an issue.
    Craig Farr
    Stohr WF1 P2

  9. #6
    Contributing Member dsmithwc04's Avatar
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    I'll have no problems figuring out how to get the car to the track. FE isn't exactly a 4x4 vehicle and took some thought to get it easily repeatable. I'm more concerned with what class I want to run and what will fit my budget. I was thinking P1/2 so I can easily run at my local track for testing purposes. Too hard to find a place to run an open wheel car although that is where my heart is. I've been toying with the idea of FB as well.

    I'm not looking to spend the money required to run at the front. Just be competitive in the top 1/3 of the field.
    I race communist race cars.

    "Smokey, this is not 'Nam. This is bowling, there are rules." - Walter Sobchak

  10. #7
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    You should do a quick review of P1/P2 entry lists at the tracks you are interested in. You might find that " Just be competitive in the top 1/3 of the field" will generally put you on the podium.
    I'm a former DSR guy and, at the time, it was huge bang for the buck but still hard to get out of the bottom of a 20 car field. If I were younger and interested in driving again, I would probably do P2 with a mostly stock, relatively reliable Busa.
    Good luck with whatever you end up in.
    Marty

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