I'll be needing to replace the front pads soon. Any tips from y'all for someone that's doing this for the first time?
Thanks!
I'll be needing to replace the front pads soon. Any tips from y'all for someone that's doing this for the first time?
Thanks!
Which are you talking about - pad R&R or choosing a brand of pad?
If R&R, it couldn't be simpler. There are many ways to push back the piston. I'd say that best practice is to unbolt the caliper and use a c-clamp to compress it back in. Note that fluid will go back into the master cylinder so either bleed first to get the level down or put something underneath for the spill.
I've seen () the piston get pushed back with big screwdrivers without removing the caliper but you need to be careful what the screwdrivers are pressing against. Heat cycled brake Rotors don't like side loads....
For pads, I'd suggest sticking with what you have for another wear cycle to help your consistancy and feel.
Garey Guzman
FF #4 (Former Cal Club member, current Atlanta Region member)
https://redroadracing.com/ (includes Zink and Citation Registry)
https://www.thekentlives.com/ (includes information on the FF Kent engine, chassis and history)
I have a couple sets of pads that came with the car. Not sure what's on there now. I noticed it's a dual piston caliper and I've never had to deal with that before (Miatas are sooooo simple) and I wasn't sure if there was a trick to dual that I needed to be aware of.
BTW, will you be coming down to Rd Atl for the 50th?
Make sure that the MC has enough fluid in it so that when you put the calipers back on and push the pedal the level does not drop low enough to let air into the system. Probably will not be a problem but just something keep an eye on.
I plan to be there with my Swift in the FF races.
What type of spare pads do you have? Changing is no problem but I have heard that changing from (or to) PFC can be an issue. I've always used PFC so I don't have to worry. Changing brands may require a burnish although some have recommend turning the rotors when changing brand.
Garey Guzman
FF #4 (Former Cal Club member, current Atlanta Region member)
https://redroadracing.com/ (includes Zink and Citation Registry)
https://www.thekentlives.com/ (includes information on the FF Kent engine, chassis and history)
Different cars use different rotors. Unfortunately, no book that I'm aware have lists what the original rotors were.
My March fronts are Triumph Spitfire while I have no idea what the rears are from.
My Swift has floating rotors. They were made for my Swift by ICP (Richard Pare).
Garey Guzman
FF #4 (Former Cal Club member, current Atlanta Region member)
https://redroadracing.com/ (includes Zink and Citation Registry)
https://www.thekentlives.com/ (includes information on the FF Kent engine, chassis and history)
Jack up the car.
Put the car on stands.
Check fluid level in reservoir - should be about mid level so it doesn't overflow
Remove the wheels.
pull the retainer pins from the calipers
Slide a thin blade screwdriver between each pad and the rotor and pry gently to move the pistons back from the pad.
Remove the pads with a pair of pliers
Use a pair of larger screwdrivers to push the pistons back into the calipers.
Install new pads.
Install pins
check fluid level in reservoir
Repeat the other caliper,
Check fluid level
Press brake pedal and check for firmness - Bleed the calipers if the brake pedal isn't firm until it is.
Reinstall wheels
Remove car from stands.
Go race the car.
“Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty.” -Peter Egan
I didn't see where this is really much different that a Miata but, as with all things new (to me) I'd rather ask and be thought a fool than plunge ahead and spend hundreds (or thousands) fixing something that, "if I'd only asked...". With my luck I'd be looking at a pile of junk and someone would say, "Oh, yeah, it's got reverse threads and a locking tab that you can't see until you've made a 5/6 turn then you flip the tab over while humming Beethoven's Fifth and..."
I am a pry it back with a screwdriver guy too. I've been doing it for over 40 years and never had a problem. If you consider the loads put on the rotors when you put the brakes on at speed .....they are pretty tough.
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