Open Wheel Race Car Buyer's Checklist

[Michael_Mustang]

I searched and couldn't find one, so I figured it'd be a good idea to start a thread about a generic buyer's checklist for open-wheel race cars. This is also a learning experience for me as I currently do not own an OW race car but I am a prospective buyer and want to know what potential buyers need to look for. To start, I'm basing this on other race cars I've owned (all tin tops) and some hard-earned lessons as a buyer.

This is a work in progress and I'm looking for feedback from the experienced folks here to make it accurate and relevant. So as a start, here goes:

1. Pre-Inspection Research (via Internet and by talking to racers)
A. What is a typical sales price for a race car like this?
B. What are the known problem areas?
C. How much does it cost to fix or replace typical known issues and problem areas?
D. How much does it cost to rebuild/replace the engine?
E. How much does it cost to rebuild/replace the gearbox?
F. How much does it cost for a set of new tires?
G. For the specific car being inspected, how competitive was it in recent races (race orgs will publish results)?

2. Initial Impression and Documentation
A. What is your initial impression on the condition of this race car (prior to detailed inspection)?
B. Does this car have a log book? Ask to see it.
C. Does this car have a current year annual tech inspection noted in log book? If not, when did it last pass the annual?
D. Review log book for race history, tech inspection notes, and crashes.
E. Ask the seller about any wrecks or crash damage the car may have suffered and subsequent repairs.
F. When was this car last driven on track (practiceday or raced)?
G. Does the seller have a maintenance log for this car? If so, review it.
H. Does the seller have the car's setup notes? If so, review them.
I. Ask the seller how the car is stored during the off-season.

3. Body Panels
A. Any signs of damage?
B. Do the body panels line up correctly?
C. Any signs of crash damage repair and does it look properly done?
D. Overall visual inspection. Does anything look wrong?

4. Frame
A. Any signs of damage or corrosion?
B. Any signs of crash damage repair and does it look properly done?
C. Overall visual inspection. Does anything look wrong?

5. Suspension
A. Are suspension components secure and without slop in joints?
B. When were the dampers last replaced or rebuilt?
C. Are the dampers showing signs of leaking or seeping?
D. Are the wheel bearings without play and not making any abnormal noises when rotated?
E. When were the wheel bearings last replaced?
F. Overall visual inspection. Does anything look wrong?

6. Brakes
A. When were the brakes last serviced (including fluid flush)?
B. Condition of brake lines, brake pads, calipers, and rotors?
C. When were the brake calipers last replaced or rebuilt?
D. Any signs of brake fluid leaks?
E. Overall visual inspection. Does anything look wrong?

7. Engine
A. When was it sealed (if applicable to the car's class)?
B. When was it last rebuilt?
C. When was the oil last changed?
D. How many hours are on the engine since it was built (or rebuilt)?
E. Has it been recently dyno'd? If so, how do the HP and TQ curves look?
F. Does the engine run well and appear to be healthy based on sound and throttle response?
G. Does the engine burn oil?
H. Any signs of engine oil leaks or seeps?
I. Overall visual inspection. Does anything look wrong?

8. Gearbox
A. When was it sealed (if applicable to the car's class)?
B. When was it last rebuilt?
C. Is the shifter linkage secure?
D. Does it shift well in all gears?
E. Does it whine or make abnormal noises?
F. When was the oil last changed?
G. Any signs of gearbox oil leaks or seeps?
H. Overall visual inspection. Does anything look wrong?

9. Engine Cooling System (if it has one)
A. Are there any signs of leaks?
B. When were hoses last replaced?
C. When was the radiator last replaced?
D. What coolant is currently in it (any anti-freeze will need to be flushed out)?
E. Overall visual inspection. Does anything look wrong?

10. Fuel Cell
A. When was it last replaced?
B. Has the fuel cell aged out (expired)?
C. Overall visual inspection. Does anything look wrong?

11. Electrical System and Transponder
A. Is battery properly secured?
B. Does the electrical wiring appear to be secure, safe, and with no signs of chafing?
C. If applicable, is the electronic ignition properly secured?
D. Is the transponder included in the sale of the car?
E. If the transponder is a rechargeable type, is the charger included with the car?
F. Overall visual inspection. Does anything look wrong?

12. Safety Equipment and Driver Fit
A. How well do you fit in the cockpit (bear in mind some of this can be adjusted)?
- How well does the seat fit you?

- How well does the steering wheel position fit you?

- Can you reach the pedals?
- Can you reach the various controls and the shifter?
- Does the instrumentation layout make sense?
- Do you have adequate shoulder clearance?
- Overall, do you feel comfortable sitting in this car?
B. Age and condition of seat belts (harness)?
C. When was the fire suppression system last serviced?
D. Verify proper operation of kill switch.
E. Overall visual inspection. Does anything look wrong?

13. Tires and Wheels
A. How old are the tires and how many heat cycles are on them?
B. How old are the wheels and how many track sessions are on them?
C. For unmounted wheels, do they look straight/unbent?
D. Overall visual inspection. Does anything look wrong (e.g., flat spots, sidewall cracks, etc.)?

14. Spares Package
A. What's included in the spares package?
B. How many sets of tires and wheels go with the car?
C. Do the spare parts look OK to use?

15. Final Thoughts Based on The Inspection
A. Does this car appear to be legal per class rules?
B. What does this car need to be track-ready?
C. What does this car need to be race-ready?
D. Does the car appear to have been maintained well?
E. Based on market research and what you've just seen, what is this car really worth?
F. Avoid buying the car in the heat of the moment when your best judgement may be cloudy. Instead, sleep on it and negotiate a day or so later.
G. Remind yourself that there are other good cars out there on the market (or will soon be). If something doesn't feel right about this car, don't buy it.
H. Be prepared to walk away.

[DanW]

http://www.thekentlives.com/index.ph...-formula-ford/

[Michael_Mustang]

http://www.thekentlives.com/index.ph...-formula-ford/

Thanks! Good stuff there.

[Steve Demeter]

I think the OP covered more than most buyers check for. Great job of thinking it out.

Remember driver fit can and will most likely need to be adjusted 9new sat, adjust pedals, raise / lower steering wheel) but as long as the fit between the frame is not too tight most everything else will need to be tailored to fit you.

Also, tires are disposable so I would not wry about their condition. Wheel : good idea.

[Pi_guy]

It is a comprehensive list.
But the list if it is all positive as you would like, it is still not in a ready to drive condition.
Most cars when you buy them they need to be gone through and prepped for you.
This would be better as a list for renting a car from a prep shop or buying a street car.

But one of the best ways is to talk to people that know the car-- formula car world is small.

If it has a data system look at the data files this will tell you much.

There is a spreadsheet floating about with approximate costs per class.

Couple of points

It is not a real race car if it does not have a off switch that is able to be operated on the outside of the car.
New battery every year
shocks should be on a dyno and rebuilt once a year
Brakes should be bled before every weekend
and so on.

I think you would be better to pick the series and class you want to run in and work from that.

[Michael_Mustang]

Good points and thanks for the feedback. I'd always go through a car before first hitting the track.

I agree about the kill switch but I know of at least two SCCA classes that do not currently require them, T4 and B-SPEC.

It is a comprehensive list.
But the list if it is all positive as you would like, it is still not in a ready to drive condition.
Most cars when you buy them they need to be gone through and prepped for you.
This would be better as a list for renting a car from a prep shop or buying a street car.

But one of the best ways is to talk to people that know the car-- formula car world is small.

If it has a data system look at the data files this will tell you much.

There is a spreadsheet floating about with approximate costs per class.

Couple of points

It is not a real race car if it does not have a off switch that is able to be operated on the outside of the car.
New battery every year
shocks should be on a dyno and rebuilt once a year
Brakes should be bled before every weekend
and so on.

I think you would be better to pick the series and class you want to run in and work from that.

[Pi_guy]

Good points and thanks for the feedback. I'd always go through a car before first hitting the track.

I agree about the kill switch but I know of at least two SCCA classes that do not currently require them, T4 and B-SPEC.

Your subject line says Open wheel ---- please show me a current formula car with out a master switch.......

[Michael_Mustang]

Your subject line says Open wheel ---- please show me a current formula car with out a master switch.......

I was responding to your generic statement:

"It is not a real race car if it does not have a off switch that is able to be operated on the outside of the car. and I then gave you two examples of real race cars that don't have them, albeit they're door slammers..

OK, apparently all OW race cars have them. Like I mentioned, this is a work in progress.

[holmberg]

There is a spreadsheet floating about with approximate costs per class.

operational costs

[Rick Kirchner]

here ya go

[billtebbutt]

When you try the car on for size, sit in the car with both helmet and hans/head restraint on.

Leakdown test

bt

[BorkRacing]

These are all common sense points that one gains through experience by being in the race world. You need to jump in and gain the knowledge and experience in OWR to fully understand, appreciate and understand these points.

For example:

Age of fuel cell/is it out dated. Common sense outside of OWR would say well then you need to addd the cost of a new fuel cell if it is outdated. Experience tells you that it could be recertified.

Shocks, do they need to be rebuilt, were they dyno'ed. I came from 2 decades of PROD racing and SRF and thought I understood shocks. I read all the comments on Apex and then thought I knew all there was. Then I talked to Steve (Citation/Zink) and Ange (Anze Shocks) and learned volumes more and realized that on some cars they are game changers and on others have very little impact. You need experience and contacts in OWR to make a call on shocks.

My list is far more simple.

1. Pick a class that makes you smile and challenges your abilities (ex. CF or FC or S2, etc[)
2. Read all you can on Apex about that class
3. Make friends who are in that class and talk to them often
4. Go to races for that class, crew if you can
5. Make a budget for a car ( have 50% more in reserves)
6. Make a budget for 1 season of racing (be reasonable, 2 or 3 events)
7. Jump in and buy a car, they all need work of some type but by now you know that.
8. Work on our car for a few months, maybe a year.
9. Now look at the list at the top of the page and say "yep, that is all common sense points"
10. Become a friend to someone new to your class

[Farrout48]

Do not worry about the existing seat. Chances of it fitting you perfectly are minimal unless you happen to be the exact size as the previous owner. THe guy who owned my Stohr was bigger that I am. I was able to reposition and pad up his bead seat such that it was useable but the upper body support was not good enough. Then I had a seat poured for me. Huge difference in comfort and support.

SItting in a car statically is just an approximation of can you actually fit in the car. Once you get on track and experience the G loads, the fitment will change. You will discover things that are annoying and just not right for you. Fitment is a process.

Remove the existing seat and sit in the car. That will tell you more about your ability to actually fit in the car. Can the pedals be moved forward and rearward? Some steering shafts can be adjusted, some cannot. Shims can be added to the wheel mount itself to move it closer to you. Wear race shoes to see if you feet can fit.

Depending on the class you are looking at, the basic cockpit sizes are all different - even between model years of the same builder. Go to some local races and visit the OW guys. Sit in some cars to get a basic feel.

Do not worry about tires. You will be buying newer ones. John Berget sells quality used race tires at a decent price. They are great for practice days and even racing on while you learn to drive the car. Rain tires can look great but be so old as to be worthless.

I like to have 3 sets of rims for good race tires, older practice tires and rains. Check to see if they are true but new rim halfs are easy to replace.

[Bob Wright]

After looking at everything carefully...plan to tear a used OWR car down to the frame before you race it. First, you'll find out what is good or bad, and second- you'll learn how to put the car together which can be invaluable when you're thrashing to fix it at the track.

I have always tried to buy used cars that are 'well used' so I have no expectations, but have a known history. Gearbox, shocks, brakes, steering rack, clutch and motor always get rebuilt immediately. Most rod ends get tossed based on inspection. Never use anything but a bead seat or Speedseat fitted to you.

[John Green]

All good but with the exception of my current FC, I bought my racecars from drivers actively racing them. Remember, everything is always for sale and the right price will buy a car right off the track with known performance. Otherwise, if you buy a dormant car figure on taking it all apart to confirm condition.