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  1. #1
    Senior Member reisertracing's Avatar
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    Default 88' Reynard questions

    Getting 88' reynard CFC ready for ARRC.

    Need to know preset for suspension, prior to set-up.
    Manual suggests first setting suspension to preset values.
    Anyone know preset values? i.e., rod lengths front and rear, shock mount lengths, etc.
    Dumb question, to change ride height, shorten shock mount or lengthen(tighten or loosen)? Hate to show my ignornace but need to learn.

    Don't have a jig for rod presets with car.
    Thanks, as always in advance.
    Hope everyone is having a great fall.
    Johhny Reisert

  2. #2
    Grand Pooh Bah Purple Frog's Avatar
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    Default

    Throw the manual out the window.

    There are no pushrods on a stock '88 Reynard. If it's been converted to pushrod, then the manual won't apply anyway.

    I think there were some spring selections listed in earlier posts.

    17 years after the chassis was built means that the preset concept probably won't work anyway. I know my '88 had about a .125" "twist" in it.

    Set your ride heights trying to get the upper pivots of the rockers about even off the deck.

    For Road Atlanta (relatively smooth) set the car lowish. 1.5" front +/- and put in 5/8" to 3/4" rake. Stiffer cars have been known to be lower.

    Tightening the spring perches will raise that corner, also adding crossweight to the opposite corner. If you are using a front droop limiter, set it last in the process.

    Slight toe out in the front, nuetral to slight toe in at the rear. 1.5 neg degree camber at the front, .75 neg at the rear.

    Wings fairly flat (lower downforce).


  3. #3
    FF23
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    Default '88 Reynard FC set-up?

    Hello Purple Frog,
    I helped someone last weekend with this type of car. What springs do you recommend?
    He had 800 LB fronts (Holy Crap) and 650 LB rears. Major push!! I had him swap the springs
    front to rear (push fixed). Now the front sway bar is at full soft, LOTS of front toe out, and
    lots of front wing dialed in. Not Good!!!!
    My guess was to put the 650's back on the rear and buy 350's for the front, set the toe and
    wings as you suggest and the front sway bar medium. Please give me your opinion so that
    he won't have to rely on a guess.
    This guy loaned me some brake calipers after a little do-da broke one of mine. He's new to
    Formula car racing and could use lots of help. Obviously!
    Hope the vicious watch frog is doing well.
    Thanks,
    Gerald.

  4. #4
    Grand Pooh Bah Purple Frog's Avatar
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    Default

    800 front, 650 rear is very close to THE Keith Averill suggested set up. With that setup you almost have to use a droop limiter on the front (usually the KEA model )with some preload. Many folks successfully use that package to go fast. Call Keith for more setup details... 248-585-9139

    Push is sort of a rare word in the Reynard vocabulary, something is off.

    Soooo many things I would need to know, to tell you why you were pushing. Track, tire make and model, tire age, tire pressure, ride heights, cambers, rake, driving style, yadda, yadda, yadda.

    My first guess is that the rake was hosed and you were front end high. Like maybe the car was set up with a droop limiter with preload, then someone took the droop limiter off and didn't lower the front.

    I would not go softer than 600 on the front. I even went as high as 1200 on the front. Seems like I ran a lot up around 1000, with more in the rear. But... that was a special car... No droop limiters, no rear ARB, 1/2" off the ground, trick diffuser, amphibian driver of low repute, etc. (in other words don't try this at home, especially in front of children.)


  5. #5
    Senior Member kea's Avatar
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    Default 88'Reynard questions

    Gerald,
    The guy you are talking about had other problems. We will get him to take those spring numbers (droop limiter,etc.) and work next year, once we find the real problems. We've had too many others race with those springs and go fast.
    Keith
    Keith
    Averill Racing Stuff, Inc.
    www.racing-stuff.com
    248-585-9139

  6. #6
    Senior Member Mark H's Avatar
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    Default

    The higher front (than rear)spring rates seem to help "put the car down in the corner" for me, with the Reynard's tendency to never push, but maybe some drivers like the rear to step out more than outhers?
    Johnny it seems like what you need to do is measure everything, turn on the spring pearches a few rounds(exact turns) and remeasure than you will see what way to go? But remember when you do this you are changing corner weight so do it on the scales, because RH and corner weights are a things that are done togeather.

    With the 1000 lb springs 30mm is the min. at RA to not bottom too bad where 27mm is ok at flat tracks like RR or CMP.

    With lower rates mentioned above, like 600 lb ect. you better keep that baby up in the air 45mm + or the T3 & T5 curbs will knock your diffuser clean off?
    SuperTech Engineering inc.
    Mark Hatheway

  7. #7
    Contributing Member
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    Default Reynard

    Check your rake! You should have 1/2" to 3/4". In fact, I'd check to make sure that the car was square! Something sounds way off. 350-pound front springs would be ok for a 1600, but definitely not for a 2.0. Also, you shouldn't need much toe-out to get the car to turn in. I would expect 1/8" total would be plenty.

    Larry Oliver
    International Racing Products
    Larry Oliver

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