Block crack on top bell housing tab

[upnorthelan]

Hi All,

I’ve got a VD RF96 that came with a crack 3/4 around one top tab (for lack of a better term). I’ve seen one example of a similar crack being welded. This is a Pinto motor. My understanding is that a cast iron block could be brazed, but my engine builder doesn’t do that work. Anyone have experience with this? Otherwise I’m on the hunt for a block in the Midwest.

Thanks,

Mike

[DanW]

I had this problem when I bought my Crossle FF. Arnie Loyning repaired it with a eutectic alloy and it worked great. A competent weld shop or prep shop experienced in welding cast iron should be able to help you.

Keith Averill in Madison Heights may be able to help you or knows someone who can. http://www.racing-stuff.com/

[kea]

Mike, Have your engine builder contact a welding shop. Brazing cast iron is the common fix for that material.

[tlracer]

See if you can find a shop listing 'metal stitching' - I found a company on the internet with good reviews called Sperry Welding in Capac (but I'm just a limey so it might be miles from you!)

[Earley Motorsports]

Yes, get it brazed/bronze welded up. A lot less of a problem than starting with another block. Also see if you can figure out why there is so much stress on the tab to crack it in the first place unless it had been backed into a wall at some time.

[jrh3]

I’ve had success with preheat, silicone-bronze rod and TIG.
What is the horizontal irregular black line above the fractured ear?

Maybe put the welded bell housing on a mill to tru up the mating surface.

[upnorthelan]

Thanks All!

this is what I was hoping to hear. I just so happen to have some silicone bronze rod and a TIG although I’m not very competent. I’ll try to seek out a shop first.

jrh3: that crack is the seem of the head meeting the block.

[upnorthelan]

Graham,

this car did smack a wall before my time. It’s got a massive weld across the bell housing. The stud running from the block passes thru pretty easily, but I may need to shim it.

thanks too to Keith. He’s played a major role in sorting the car out!

[APEowner]

It's hard to tell from a picture but it looks like there's brass showing through the paint around the crack which would indicate that it's been brazed before. That doesn't mean that it can't be fixed again but it does mean that care needs to be take to avoid contaminating the new repair with the old, unknown filler and that there may be something going on that's stressing that tab more than it should be.

[problemchild]

Why does the block need to be repaired?

I can see if it's an easy fix, then it looks better, and is a feel good fix, but if the block is otherwise good, and has been in use as-is, why worry about it?

[upnorthelan]

Problem Child,

that’s a fair question. I don’t think it’s near the water jacket. I’ve only run it briefly this way, but it looks as though it’s been there a long time.

APE,

I think what you’re seeing is my wife’s gold paint marker. I circled the crack and drew a frowny face on it for the engine builder. The tab looks like the original sand casting. I’m assuming that tab got stressed during the crash that took that corner off way back when.


I’ve now spoken to 2 welders in the Indy area and neither braze. Both suggest warming the block in an over and them afterward slowly cooling it off in said over so the filler rod won’t crack. Seems like someone in Speedway should be able to do it if I can find them.

[Rick Kirchner]

Why does the block need to be repaired?

I can see if it's an easy fix, then it looks better, and is a feel good fix, but if the block is otherwise good, and has been in use as-is, why worry about it?

well, on a 96 there are 4 bolts at the back hanging the engine off the bellhousing. At the front, it's a flimsy, flexible shear plate mounting through the water neck to to spots on the frame.

While the back of a 94-97 is a lot stiffer than the 98 and up cars, losing a stud will undoubtedly pass increased loads to the others and I'm guessing potential issues in the future as a result.