3D printable FF model
As an offshoot of my FC model project.
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/sho...able-FC-Models
I now have the 98+ Van Diemen files available in both Ford Kent and Honda trim for the FF as well.
Here is how the cars look when printed.
If you would like a copy of the files to print send me a message.
That's badass!
Cool stuff, Roger!
I'm an OnShape user too and we might be able to collaborate some.
As a modeler, I might be interested in obtaining one. Is that possible?
Jack Bartelt
Lola T540 CFF
Lola
Jack,
that looks awesome! what Kit is that?
Jeff
I forget the manufacturer. IMC maybe. Mecum Lola with Fred Cady aftermarket decals.
Jack Bartelt
Lola T540 CFF
RSS, I may have asked you before but I can't recall, what type of printer do you have?
I am considering getting into resin printing but am pretty lost.
Chris Livengood, enjoying underpriced ferrous whizzy bits that I hacked out in my tool shed since 1999.
I have no experience with Resin printing as they are generally not as strong as the FDM stuff and have less choices material wise.Originally Posted by Chris Livengood
But for printers I have a couple Ender 3 V2s, a CR10S Pro-V2 and a Voron 2.4 I have also had a couple Any Cubic printers and one or two off brand ones.
My suggestion for people getting into printing would be to start with and Ender 3 V2 and see how it goes from there. They are easily upgraded and fairly common so parts are easy to get and there is lot of support from the community. (They are the Van Diemen of the printing world).
Roger
I have an ender 3 v2 with a Micro Swiss hot end. I get good results with it lately. Especially since I extended Z and put it all on a dedicated cabinet with a filament drier. It's almost as reliable as my CNC mill now. I run both machines almost nonstop. I look to convert the printer to Octoprint control soon, but i'm not really in a hurry for that. I will convert the Y axis to linear rail as well, when doing tall prints the Y axis gets rather sloppy in the stock form.
Are you using small nozzles and fine layers or am I just not judging your pictures well? If i printed even with a .4mm nozzle I don't think I can get the resolution and detail your prints show. The wing planes for example look to be rather fine in detail, I don't think i could replicate it. PLA is super friendly and I have really dialed in my PETG work, but even still your prints look crazy nice.
Chris Livengood, enjoying underpriced ferrous whizzy bits that I hacked out in my tool shed since 1999.
My Stock ender 3 V2 gives ridiculously good prints at 0.12mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle wall speeds around 35mm/s and interior stuff at 50mm/s. For some reason this printer has been great since day 1 hence why I never modified it.
Running that on my modified Ender 3 V2 (Microswiss Direct drive and hot end with a Voron Stealthburner cooling setup) gives slightly less quality with the same settings. I have spent hours trying to dial this one in to be as good as the stock but just can't get it all the way there maybe 90-95% quality wise.
Now my Voron 2.4 can do similar quality to that at 150mm/s no problem. I have never actually tried to print really slow with this printer to up the quality as I made the printer for larger faster printing not slow perfection.
If you are looking to go to linear rails look up the Voron switchwire as a number of guys have converted Ender 3's into a switchwire.
Man, my stock Ender was awful. I damn near threw it out. I got one good print out of it and from there i couldn’t get it to work without tweaking for hours on end.
In the current state I can pretty much turn it on and hit go. I suppose for these low end machines they vary. I’ve got it all working now.
I usually print at .24 layers with a .5 nozzle but will give .12 a shot. What slicer are you using? I’ve got some carbon filament and some TPU as well. I haven’t printed in either yet but am looking forward to it.
Chris Livengood, enjoying underpriced ferrous whizzy bits that I hacked out in my tool shed since 1999.
Here is a close up of the print quality.
Still some ringing and some uneven extrusion early on in the print but you need to be close to see it.
If you like frustration you will love TPU same print 10 times in a row and only 4 will work for some reason. On the carbon filaments make sure to dial down the fans as layer adhesion is usually pretty bad if you run too much cooling.
did you ad BLtouch? Can you share your PETG settings? I've had nothing but trouble with PETG on my enders3. Did the cabinet make that big of a difference?
Awww, come on guys, it's so simple. Maybe you need a refresher course. Hey! It's all ball bearings nowadays.
Really nice!
I will have to play with lower layer heights. With the Micro Swiss I had to make a new fan shroud, I used one of the available models. I'm not sure it works all that well, but I also don't have any idea what I am doing. I have managed to make some pretty nice stuff despite my ignorance.
I got hardened steel nozzles for the carbon, everybody says it prints really well asides from wearing out nozzles and feed tubes. As for TPU, I hear that it is dreadful, and you aren't the first to warn me. I'll be making spaghetti before I know it.
Chris Livengood, enjoying underpriced ferrous whizzy bits that I hacked out in my tool shed since 1999.
I've been thinking of building a voron for a while now. Did you buy a kit or did you source all the components yourself? If kit which one?
Awww, come on guys, it's so simple. Maybe you need a refresher course. Hey! It's all ball bearings nowadays.
Didn't have time to source ended up buying the Formbot kit off of Aliexpress I have been please with it so far. If you want to spend a bit more you can now get the LDO kit which wasn't available when I was building mine. I probably would have got that kit if it was around at the time.
I have sent out version 1 of the files to all that requested it (I think).
If I missed you just send me a message or reply here and I will get you the link.
That cabinet made a difference only because the machine is on a stable surface. The cabinet is not an enclosure. It's a file cabinet from Amazon and I store all the dumb printing stuff in it. The printer sits on top of it. These machines are noodles and need additional support, literal and emotional.
No I don't use the BLtouch (it looks like a good mod). I level like a man, with a sheet of paper and determination. I usually have to run -.3mm on the Z height. That might be the thickness of a sheet of paper, who knows? Nevertheless, I haven't had to level since putting the machine on the cabinet, it works great. I also moved the filament spool off the printer frame. See comments above about the machine being a noodle. I may buy a piece of granite counter top and set the machine on that, it wouldn't hurt.
For PETG I print at 240C nozzle temp, .5mm nozzle, 65 bed. I use Elmers jumbo glue stick on the bed before printing. I like to over extrude, usually like 130%, but PETG can be picky about this. Sometimes you get some massive nozzle boogers. They usually jettison without any negative bearing on the print. Bed adhesion is great with the glue, just make sure you put it down nice and even. Once the bed cools the prints pop off easy. The glue is easily cleaned off with water or glass cleaner for when you revert back to PLA or whatever. Sometimes the PETG doesn't want to flow (depends on the brand and blend), so I up the nozzle temp if it appears a little to rigid. Otherwise it is a slightly stringy PLA at this point. I try to stick to lower temps on all my filaments as it seems to reduce stringing.
Keep in mind that I don't know what I am doing. I'm just another dog on the interveb.
Chris Livengood, enjoying underpriced ferrous whizzy bits that I hacked out in my tool shed since 1999.
Have you seen...
... these?
https://www.facebook.com/mmcmodels
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