Pertronix Ignitor II part number

[Stumpthumper]

I recently replaced a Pertronix ignition with a borrowed one at the track. I ordered a replacement and it look very different. Does anyone have the correct part number for our cars? The one I ordered was a 91849. It's shorter, and I don't know if it will work. The one I had and the one I borrowed had numbers on it that don't seem to correlate to an actual part number.

[Steve Davis]

I believe that all the info you need is on the Pertronix website. The BIG 'gotcha' is to make CERTAIN that the ignitor you choose is matched to the resistance of your coil. Some of the newer 'hi performance' type coils have very low internal resistance and will FRY the less expensive ignitors in about 3 milliseconds. The 2nd 'gotcha' is to NEVER leave the ignition switch in the ON position for more than a few seconds without the engine running. It won't always happen, but if the ignitor just happens to be in the 'closed' position, it will burn out the ignitor in a matter of a couple of minutes.

IIRC, the number that I'm using is the 91847A, but you need to match whatever you use to your coil (measure across the primary terminals (the + and -) with an ohmeter to be sure.

Else, just call Pertronix, tell them your application, and they will tell you which one you need.

Steve, FV80

[Ed Womer]

This is for informational purposes only, but one of the issues with my first motor last year was a (junk) Chinese distributor that Dean sad wouldn't hold timing and was all over the place. I bought a Pertronix 009 replacement and when Dean checked it out he said just looking at it it had way to much advance and could be the reason the engines don't want to idle since setting it at 4k it would be so retarded at idle that it wouldn't want to idle.

Ed

[Steve Davis]

If you use one as a replacement for either standard points or any other type of ignitor .. or even the same type, you should ALWAYS reset the timing dynamically to be sure it's right. There are various types that use different methods of sensing the lobes on the distributor shaft, so you can never be sure without using a timing light after installation.

Steve

[Stumpthumper]

If you use one as a replacement for either standard points or any other type of ignitor .. or even the same type, you should ALWAYS reset the timing dynamically to be sure it's right. There are various types that use different methods of sensing the lobes on the distributor shaft, so you can never be sure without using a timing light after installation.

Steve

I really just want to swap like with like. I use tue bosch blue coil with the internal resistor. I have no idea what distributor I use, which seems to be how you decide which ignitor to use.

[Steve Davis]

If we assume that your car is a Formula Vee, and it has a professional built engine in it, it is almost a guarantee that it will be a VW/Bosch double 009 or equivalent.
Steve

[Stumpthumper]

If we assume that your car is a Formula Vee, and it has a professional built engine in it, it is almost a guarantee that it will be a VW/Bosch double 009 or equivalent.
Steve

Thanks, that helps.

[Ed Womer]

Just to clarify yesterdays post, I meant setting the timing at 4K rpm of 36 degrees.

Ed