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  1. #1
    Contributing Member Hawke's Avatar
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    Default Fuel tank - metal selection

    The time has come to replace the 40 year old, patched up fuel tank on my Hawke DL11. I was going to make it out of 1.6mm 5005 H34sheet.

    What's the consensus?

  2. #2
    Contributing Member DanW's Avatar
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    Default

    Is a fuel cell out of the question? They are required here, then we cover them with 16gauge alu sheet for additional protection.

    That ally is a good choice. It has good corrosion resistance and it's relatively easy to work, but still has some strength.
    “Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty.” -Peter Egan

  3. #3
    Contributing Member Hawke's Avatar
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    Thanks Dan. Fuel cells are not a requirement here for the class I run in. Il’l be cranking up the new welder now.

  4. #4
    Member T540's Avatar
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    Default Fuel tank thickness

    If you're running in Australia then look at Motorsport Australia Schedule N Clause 4.1.

    5005 Aluminium minimum thickness 2.0mm.

  5. #5
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    2 mm aluminum seems a bit thick but if that is the rules then that is what you have to use.

    When I first started working on race cars in the l1t3 1960's we still had aluminum tanks and I built several. Recently I build fuel thanks for an airplane. One thing I did that was different than how the tanks for my plane were designed is to make all the welded joints a butt weld. that is the 2 pieces of metal are welded so that the pieces being welded are end to end and the weld is along a flat surface. This required that the edges of the tank where I was welding were bent at 45 degrees. The alternative would be to roll the edges so that the weld was in the middle of a curved surface.

    Along the straight edges, I bent the edges 45 degrees with a 3/8" edge or lip. The adjoining side was bent the same. This makes welding much easier as it really reduces the distortion of the edges as they are being welded.

    I chose to weld my tanks this way as a hedge against the tanks developing cracks along the welded edges.

    When I first did tanks I gas welded them and I would recommend that you consider gas welding. The weld is a lot less brittle and the bead is infinitely nicer on the side opposite of the weld than a TIG weld.

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  7. #6
    Contributing Member Hawke's Avatar
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    Thanks for all your help.

    Steve, I can gas weld Aluminium, but it is so much easier to TIG it, and I just bought a TIG machine along with some fancy accessories.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawke View Post
    Thanks for all your help.

    Steve, I can gas weld Aluminium, but it is so much easier to TIG it, and I just bought a TIG machine along with some fancy accessories.
    I did my airplane tanks with TIG for the same reason, easier. Also it had been decades since I did any aluminum gas welding

  9. #8
    Senior Member jchracer's Avatar
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    If you do a lot of TIG butt welding, I backside Argon purge will keep the opposite side looking nice and will result in better weld properties. If you are creative, the setup can be pretty simple.
    Ciao,

    Joel
    Piper DF-5 F1000

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  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jchracer View Post
    If you do a lot of TIG butt welding, I backside Argon purge will keep the opposite side looking nice and will result in better weld properties. If you are creative, the setup can be pretty simple.
    I do have a "flux" that helps with the back side of TIG welding. I have done back purging and it really makes the job go better.

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  13. #10
    Senior Member GAC's Avatar
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    Even if not required, the fuel cell is the single greatest safety improvement in racing history. I would strongly recommend using one. It will also add value to the car when you look to sell it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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