Tiga FFA-77 Mk 9 clutch cross shaft issue...

[fshort]

Hi all:

After getting my Mk 9 re-cased due to terminal sidecover-area cracks, I re-used the clutch cross shaft (ext. slave cyl) that came w/ the new (used) case.

After installing new bushings, etc. and gently smashing the clutch lever onto the shaft, I noticed the I/B side of the lever was hitting the case. Due to no sleep = low brain pressure, I just pried the lever O/B enough to clear the case...

Due to a unrelated issue, we had to pull the gearbox to fix the flywheel - to make it 1 piece again. I noticed that the TO bearing wasn't centered on the input shaft - when it was, the lever hit the case. Please see photos.

So, some research showed me I need a 16MM OD x 215mm L cross shaft, instead of the 16MM x 200mm L one I have. I have found (2) VW p/ns, both for early Bus 68-75: 002-141-701 or 002-141-701F, with those dims.

If I'm correct in my logic, are those correct parts/dims? The Hewland manual shows much more shaft length outside of the case - their p/n is HC9-254A.

I would prefer to buy non-Hewland parts, and I'm happy to spend money with road racing vendors vs. VW shops. Also, EMPI shows a HD cross shaft 100% welded around the levers...

What advice can you give me?

Thanks in advance!

Regards,
James

[Robert J. Alder]

If any of you buddies have a spare push-rod lever, you might borrow it and install instead of your old one. Those levers are all a modified stock VW part. The stock VW lever hangs down vertically. Those modified for Hewland application are cut and re-welded to point straight back. The modified levers aren't always consistently fabricated. Sometimes they are off enough they won't cleanly clear the bell housing, thus forcing the shaft (and Throw Out bearing) at bit to the outside.

Or, remove yours and put a torch to it to open it up a little bit and reinstall. Be sure to wire brush the shaft and its splines and the splines in the lever to get them absolutely clean and tidy. Makes reinstall a lot more fun. Shouldn't have to force it at to get it on the shaft and then get the circlip in place.

[Earley Motorsports]

I agree with the take it off, put a little heat to it and bring it out a little for clearance.

[fshort]

Thanks for the input!

Please see this photo from the Hewland manual cover - it sure looks like more shaft is sticking out than what I have...

[Robert J. Alder]

Just another tip/hint. When assembling the cross shaft, make sure the circlips (#34 and #40) are installed correctly and that the pain-in-the-rear shaft bushing (#36) is correctly seated in place with with the tip of the set screw is properly in that bushing's hole. All very tedious. (Hint: Clean the bore for the bushing with a brake cylinder hone and debur the bushing itself so it all installs and moves easily. Makes getting that set screw tip to easily "hit" the hole.). If all done correctly, it should center the throw out bearing fingers properly and prevent the shaft from drifting outward. I'm still thinking the lever needs some re-bending outward so it better clears the bell housing. By the way, the std. return spring #38 is a pain. Just go with an external. hardware store spring like you Hewland manual picture shows. WAY easier.

[fshort]

Robert, great tips!

I'll post what happens next...