Fuel Pump

[Craig Henry]

Rethinking my plan to convert to an electric fuel pump (block off plate, vibration mounts, switches, regulators, safety cut-offs, wiring, etc.). Is the common part store Carter pump sufficient/reliable or is their better brand to get?

Thanks for the help.

Craig

[Purple Frog]

Couple of things to look out for...

There are at least two different pump configurations. The difference is in the upper part of the pump. So, make sure you buy one that fits in your frame (if that is an issue).

Different engine builders do different things with the short actuator rod that drives the pump off the jack shaft. Sometimes they have been shortened in order to mount the pump on the block without a spacer. Sometimes they are longer to use a spacer.

If the actuator rod is too long (or longer than needed), eventually the pump breaks. Sooner than later.

Over-torquing the pump bolts deforms the pump base, and leads to oil leaks.

A leaking pump diaphram really causes the oil to get thin. [img]smile.gif[/img]

I'm thinking that if I ever went to electric fuel pumps, I might consider the neat one that Quicksilver sells that drops down into the fuel cell.

[Craig Henry]

Frog,

Thanks for the reply. The insulator spacer comment clicked in my head and I now know why the part stores were offering two different length actuator rods. Early and pre ’72’s came without the insulator and used the 1.75” rod. Late ‘72’s (and on) came with the insulator and the rod length increased to 1.95”.

Master PN FP2700 = 1.75” and FP2702 = 1.95”

I did notice my pump had a small notch worn in the top cover from rubbing the frame (non-Carter pump.) I’m going to convert to the shorter actuator rod/no spacer set-up to eliminate the problem.

Thanks for pointing me in the correct direction.

My new Facet electric fuel pump, straight and 90 degree barbs, and Burton Engineering block off plate will be posted in the “for sale” section soon.

Craig

[Exeter229]

Bumping an old thread to reference the above info on fuel pump spacers/insulator.

History: '90 Reynard with mechanical pump and spacer, long pushrod. Current fuel line setup is hose clamped -6an on stock stamped fittings.

So with the above history, I wanted to upgrade to all AN for safety and reliability. Additionally, to avoid clearances issues with the stock suction side port almost directly against the reynard frame rail, I purchased an indexable pump from Pegasus.

Without the spacer, new pump fits fine. With spacer, pump does not clear frame cross member.

So my question is: is anything gained from insulator/spacer in our applications? If necessary, I can machine my current pushrod minus insulator dimension or buy a short pushrod. However if the insulator is necessary, I'll keep stock pump and live with non-ideal hoseclamp fittings.

Understandably, an electric pump is a 3rd option, one I would like to avoid, but can implement after weighing electric vs stock pros and cons.

I would like to keep the new fuel pump for both indexing and safety.

For reference is the indexable pump from Pegasus

Thanks in advance,
Westy

[DaveW]

Would it be possible to install the pump with a relatively thin Bakelite (or other) spacer? That would give some insulation from the block heat and might still let the indexable pump fit. You'd have to check whether you could get or make the proper length pump pushrod to do that.

[BruceRace]

I ran an electric pump for years...never a problem.....attached to the frame with nylon ties....I got it from Ivey...it's still on the car today.....8-10 years.

[DaveW]

In a total-loss electrical system, running an electric fuel pump has the disadvantage of using up the battery quicker. OTOH, there is a tiny bit of HP saved that the mechanical pump would have consumed.

[Exeter229]

In a total-loss electrical system, running an electric fuel pump has the disadvantage of using up the battery quicker. OTOH, there is a tiny bit of HP saved that the mechanical pump would have consumed.

Agreed. Part of the pros and cons. Fundamentally though is the spacer necessary? Is that much heat getting to the pump?

[DaveW]

...Fundamentally though is the spacer necessary? Is that much heat getting to the pump?

That depends on how hot the pump and preceding area is. Vaporlock will happen much more easily on the suction side of the pump, so keeping everything from the tank pickup to the pump cool is important, especially if there is any restriction on the suction side. If the surrounding area is cool, the fuel will arrive at the pump also cool. If it's preheated by the surroundings before the pump, it is much more likely that a too warm pump will be the final straw, and cause vaporlock. So YMMV. The best thing is to keep everything as cool as possible, and the spacer CAN be helpful in that task.

[Exeter229]

Good info, thanks Dave, et.al.