Suggestions wanted in break in. It seems that this may have been the cause of my problems.
Suggestions wanted in break in. It seems that this may have been the cause of my problems.
It would be good to know what your “problem” was, Joe! In any case, here’s a suggested procedure in outline form – assumes the engine is not being dyno run:
1 Assemble engine properly. Install in car properly.
2 Obtain appropriate liquid refreshment for end of day celebration and invite somebody over who’s done this before.
3 Pump for oil pressure with plugs out.
4 Install plugs and fire up.
5 Check to be sure water is flowing through head. CRITICAL!
6 Run at 2,500-3,000 rpm until up to temp. Maybe 10 minutes.
7 Check for leaks, etc.
8 Shut down and allow to cool.
9 Re-torque head bolts.
10 Adjust valve clearance.
11 Replace all oil, install new filter. Pump for pressure again.
12 Top up water level.
13 Re-start, set ignition timing, run for 10 minutes – vary rpm’s.
14 At track, pump for pressure, warm-up in paddock.
15 Run 1-2 laps slow. Check systems.
16 Run 10 laps at medium speed. Check systems. Check header bolts, etc.
17 Run hard, go racing
Assuming you have down step one correctly, you should have no problems.
Dale Carter
2003 VanDiemen FE #29
Life is Good
I had problems with the rings not sealing enough and I had some lifters wearing improperly. The best guess was that when I started the car I just let it idle. I thought that it would be better, little did I know. Then I just brought it to the track and ran.
Well, that makes the question a little more interesting!! The quality and extent of proper ring seal and its relationship to break-in period and procedure is a complicated topic. I do not pretend that the basic procedure I outlined above is the definitive process or that it will guarantee optimum engine performance. It ain’t that simple. Proper ring seal and the time it takes to get there are a result of several factors – type of ring, extent of ring prep, type and quality of cylinder honing, various machining tolerances, type of oil used for break-in, etc.
[size="1"][ 02-04-2003, 05:34 PM: Message edited by: John Merriman ][/size]
Dale Carter
2003 VanDiemen FE #29
Life is Good
I recommend you get Jakes book as he has a whole chapter on engine break-in.
If you are breaking in a new cam and lifters, when you start the engine you must immediately bring the rev's to 3000rpm. This is so the cam lobes and lifters get properly lubricated via the spash that comes off of the mains and big ends. It is also a good idea to remove the oil scraper from the pan as this will increase the amount of oil being thrown around the bottom of the engine, which is for this exercise is a good thing. It will also provide more oil to the cylinder walls. Most books recommend holding the engine at this rpm for ~20 minutes. Also use a good cam lube like Isky rev lube.
Once the cam is broken in you will need to load the engine to seat the rings. Jake says drive slowly, 4500rpm max, for 20 to 30 minutes. Change the oil and its ready to race.
Anything is possible, until it is proven impossible.
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