Pertronix Ignitor Electronic points

[PK]

The magnet assembly on my Ignitor II came apart at the Lime ROck NARRC runoffs Sept. 28. I bought the earlier version (Ignitor I) from a pit neighbor and continued. It seemed that everyone I talked to that day had failures to report on this product. What is your experience and has Pertronix fixed the problem or should I remove the product? Is Ignitor I worse than Ignitor II? (they are not compatible).
Bruce, #87 NCF, New England region

[size="1"][ October 16, 2002, 09:22 AM: Message edited by: brucesallen ][/size]

[markD]

Mine failed at Mid-Ohio last week on the first lap of the morning practice, opened up the distributor and everything looked fine. Checked gap, etc. and it still would not work. Replaced with points and condenser and ran the remainder of the weekend. My engine builder was with me and he has had 2 other DOA's recently. Maybe they aren't built for the racing environment, mine has less than 6 races on it. I'd like to hear what their replacement policy is, I've not had a chance to call them.

[Greg Sibley]

Mine was DOA and I was told to send it back for warranty replacement (which I haven't received yet). OTOH Neil Porter says they haven't had any trouble with any they've installed, which I assume is quite a few.

[kjhum]

We have had nothing but problems with the system. We have gone back to the basics and Ivey has also stopped using them. We could not even get our C dash tach to read correctly.

[mrsteve]

my car runs fine with pertronix, no problems on track as far as ignition goes, but I can't get my Stack tach to read correctly. it cuts in and out every few seconds. more out then in. spent yesterday trying various resistor, diode, and capacitor combinations in hope of making it work. no luck. looks like its time to go back to points and condensor. stack tach works fine with those. dave

[Bullitt]

No problem with mine (type I) all season. It also works fine with my SPA electronic tach.

Geoff

[DENIS]

Not to argue with those who support this product, but did you all read the reports and such in GRM about the Crane system? I did my best to supply you all with the proper part numbers and pointers on installations. Go back to FFU and pick up the numbers there. Calll Summit and have it in a few days. Half dozen installed and functioning fine here in AZ.

[mark defer]

Dave,

I installed a new engine with the Pertronix ignition and my Stack didn't work either. Went to Radio Shack and got some 100k resistors and now it works fine.

[PK]

Warranty: The instructions say 30 months. I called and they said send it back with sales receipt and they will get around to it in a few weeks. I sent it.

[Phulkrum]

Hi - We have sold about 50 of these kits (Type I and II) and Bill Kincaid's was the first one we have had a call back on with a problem. It was a defective unit that did not work when it was installed. He could of gotten a replacement from me but I guess he decided to get the factory to replace it. Care has to be taken when installing the ring around the distributor cam. It has to align with the cam lobes and should fit tight. "Lightly" tapped on until it seats. On mine, if the ring is loose at all, I epoxy it in place. Standard Stack tacks have not been a problem but I have heard of people having problems with the C-Dash.
Neil

[Jeff Smith]

Todd,
I did just what you suggest, before you posted it. Summit still has them on back order with an anticipated delivery of first week in Dec... EEKK!
I called them back and had them check with Crane. Mine is being drop shipped and should be here this week.
Just spoke to a Crane rep and he told me that we cant use our bosch blue coil. I thought it was stated before that it is ok...any experiences?
He said a 3 ohm coil is needed bosch isnt big enough, and bigger coil wouldnt increase battery draw either.
TIA,
John

[size="1"][ October 15, 2002, 04:10 PM: Message edited by: John Robinson ][/size]

[mrsteve]

Hi Tom, Was it the STACK 8100 you installed with the Pertronix? What kind of coil are you using and also did it take just (1) 100k resistor? I tried (1) 100K, and it was still dropping in and out. Thanks, Dave

[DENIS]

John, I've had ZERO problem with the use of the Blue coil in any FF (about 60+ of them if I go back to the School days!) or even in my VW days. This doesn't mean that there are not benefits to using another, just that I have not. And I have the parts in stock if you don't get them any quicker. Summit does not stock all the parts I listed as they sell the 'kits' not the independant part numbers I called out. They can however get them and do so as I recently got three of each. As you may recall, you cannot use the stock shutter for our distributor so that's why you need the alternate 'install' kit for the proper one. When you get it call me and I'll offer you some install tips based on doing one as late as last week.

[mark defer]

Dave,

I've got the 8103SP, but the dash is probably the same in all of them. I put the 100k inline (tach wire) going to the Bosch Blue coil. If you email me your address I'll send you some. You might also want to take the ground for the dash directly to the battery.

Tom

[SWMyers]

I've had both versions of Pertronix running for well over a year. Bosch blue coils. One with a Stack tach. No failures at the track, although Jay changed one of them on the dyno last week. Don't know what the whole story was. Points, on the other hand, have failed me many times. Usually after a spin at a dirty track. Dirt gets inside the cap and grinds down the rub block pretty fast. Or the block breaks off all by itself. I've run MSD units with pointless Bosch distributors without incident, but they have huge current draw.

[cdona]

I have installed two Pertronix Units.The one on my brothers car has not missed a beat all season.The one on my car failed after 2 weekendsI did find that coil compatibility has little or nothing to do with it.I used a Bosch Blue on both ,one lives and one died.

[Bullitt]

Don't forget that there are 2 identical looking versions of the blue coil. One has the ballast resistor built-in, and the other doesn't. You need to measure the coil with a multimeter to determine which you have. as I recall, some of the packaging was even mis-marked in this regard.

Geoff

[SWMyers]

In the old days, the blue coil had a resistor and the red coil did not. Has this changed?

[Bullitt]

That's how they're supposed to be, but Bosch is selling some "blue" ones now w/o the resistor. I think I read about it on the S2 forum a while ago. HAd something to do with mfg in Mexico. Only info I could find today was here:

[url="http://www.blueglue.com/archives/vintagvw/mhonarc/2001/09/msg00501.html"]Blue coils[/url]

Geoff