Narrow wheels

[Jeff_8]

I have recently switched to a rather light single axle trailer after years of lugging around a heavy double axle. The wheels are 14" Ford pattern with a lot of negative offset, and I want to narrow the overall width of the trailer by changing to rims with positive offset as there is a lot of clearance.

While looking at rims, and there are a lot to choose from, with so many Ford and Toyota varieties, would narrower tyres be more economical on fuel, or would the difference on a trailer be negligible? Also would alloy rims help, as the rims on now are quite light compared to other similar sized steel rims?

Jeff

[problemchild]

Help what? You do not state what you are trying to achieve. Enclosed or open trailer?

Hard to believe that minor differences in track or wheel weight will have any significance in regards to fuel mileage, unless you were towing with a vehicle 4 feet wide, and even then .....

[Jayeff]

I have recently switched to a rather light single axle trailer after years of lugging around a heavy double axle. The wheels are 14" Ford pattern with a lot of negative offset, and I want to narrow the overall width of the trailer by changing to rims with positive offset as there is a lot of clearance.

While looking at rims, and there are a lot to choose from, with so many Ford and Toyota varieties, would narrower tyres be more economical on fuel, or would the difference on a trailer be negligible? Also would alloy rims help, as the rims on now are quite light compared to other similar sized steel rims?

Jeff

I don't think switching the rims will make any difference in the mileage at all. However, if you went from bias ply to radials that might make a difference. Either way, it's not going to be much. If you want to use less gas, go slower.

[Purple Frog]

Interesting effort, even if the results might be negligible.

1, the taller the tire the bigger the circumference, the less revolutions per mile... thinking fractional wheel bearing drag, and wheel bearing heat.
2. The best offset would be one that centers the contact patch under the wheel bearing centerline. Thus evenly loading the inner and outer bearings.
3. Tire construction and load rating to match trailer load and speed.
4. Correct tire pressure.
5. Wheel material is one of mostly cosmetic choice. Of course if you are backing into salt water, aluminum lasts better than steel.
6. Hard compound tires have less rolling resistance.
7. The smallest safe contact patch being optimal. (remember note #3) A narrow contact patch that is long versus wide being most optimal.
8. On the flip side... if its a big heavy trailer that requires its own brakes to help the whole unit stop; then you need enough contact patch for the brakes not to lock up the wheels under braking.

As always.... YMMV

[Steve Demeter]

Personally I prefer the biggest tires I can fit under the fenders. Ever have a trailer tire blow out. Not a pleasant thing at all. Bigger tires in general = less risk of blowouts .

Regardless the general rule of thumb I have heard is replace em every 4 years regardless of anything else no matter how good they look.

[problemchild]

If you are concerned about mileage, drove 10 mph slower, or 20. That will make way more difference than tire construction or pressure ..... or anything else mentioned above.

[stonebridge20]

Cryo and REM-ISF treated bearings and races have shown about a 3/10 mpg improvement on tractor trailers. They run a lot cooler and last 2-3 times as long as untreated.

[Jeff_8]

Help what? You do not state what you are trying to achieve. Enclosed or open trailer?

Hard to believe that minor differences in track or wheel weight will have any significance in regards to fuel mileage, unless you were towing with a vehicle 4 feet wide, and even then .....

I am wanting to narrow the track as it is wider than it needs to be, so while I am purchasing rims I am looking for info on whether to go wide or narrow and whether to pay extra for alloy rims.

Jeff

[DaveW]

With a car, there is a definite lower drag figure for narrower, taller sidewall, tires. For instance, those on the Golf SportWagen forum note over a 10% mileage increase for 195/65R15 vs. wider, lower profile 18" tires. Just make sure the tires have the load capacity you need.

BTW, I have found that for my trailer (dual axle, 5.5K+ lb loaded) that I've owned since 1989, light truck tires work much better than trailer tires, including the aspects of ride, rolling resistance, and durability. They have better high speed (100+ mph) capability, which is a definite plus. They also last longer - trailer tires are usually supposed to be replaced every 2 years regardless of mileage. I get well over 5 years out of the LT tires with no durability issues. I run them at 50 psi for durability and trailer stability.

[Jerry Kehoe]

Dave, like you I have always used light truck tires over trailer tires. I have the same load as you with my trailer and find regular tires work great with great reliability even when towing across the country on hot summer days. This is especially true where in Western states the speed limit for either trucks or cars is 75-80 mph . Trailer tires are generally not speed rated high enough and in general from talking to many friends, most feel the trailer tires are of poor quality and it doesn't matter if they are Goodyear or some off brand label.

[DaveW]

Dave, like you I have always used light truck tires over trailer tires. I have the same load as you with my trailer and find regular tires work great with great reliability even when towing across the country on hot summer days. This is especially true where in Western states the speed limit for either trucks or cars is 75-80 mph . Trailer tires are generally not speed rated high enough and in general from talking to many friends, most feel the trailer tires are of poor quality and it doesn't matter if they are Goodyear or some off brand label.

I agree with the lower quality of trailer tires comment, especially when it comes to the "made in China" tires.

Also, trailer tires are made with thicker, stiffer, sidewalls than LT or passenger tires to withstand curb-rubbing and stresses created due to scrubbing on tight turns, plus minimize trailer sway. The heavier sidewall results in more heat build-up (thus the requirement for higher inflation pressure and speed limitation vs LT tires) and a stiffer ride.

I've never failed a LT tire on the trailer vs poor results with my few attempts to use trailer tires.

[stonebridge20]

[QUOTE=DaveW;571899

I've never failed a LT tire on the trailer vs poor results with my few attempts to use trailer tires.[/QUOTE]


Dave, I've always had good luck and never a blow out with Carlisle trailer tires except they dry rot (even covered with RV covers when not in use) after a couple of years.

What light truck tires are you using specifically on your trailer. I'm due for a new set.

[DaveW]

Dave, I've always had good luck and never a blow out with Carlisle trailer tires except they dry rot (even covered with RV covers when not in use) after a couple of years.

What light truck tires are you using specifically on your trailer. I'm due for a new set.

Firestone Destination LE 2's
P225/75R15
1874 # load capacity @ 35+ psi
T speed rating (118 mph)
Currently $102 ea at Tire Rack

Rated by consumers to be the best in category.

The spec says 44 psi max, but all tires have a very large safety factor for inflation, so I use 50 psi for durability and trailer stability.

I mounted them inside out so the white lettering doesn't show.