Put a fair amount of red loctite on the stub axle threads. There is no nut on the stub axle. It threads directly into the hub.
There is plastic in the bearing but I am not sure what heat you are talking about.
As far as torque goes, I have the figure that I torque to but it may not be what is recommended by Van Dieman. Call your CSR and ask.
I got the stub axle out now; so I see the part in question.Originally Posted by Fred Michael
I read on another thread about too much red loctite on the shaft nuts. Red loctite generally requires heat to remove it and the plastic in the bearings doesn't like the heat and deforms.
I talked with Kevin at Comprent and he's saying anti-seize and ~180 ft*lbs for the stub axles.
"Because of the different metals we use antiseize in case you have to change it. 40 lbs more than you torque the wheels."
Last edited by toolo4sno; 07.26.18 at 9:38 AM.
I have done well over a hundred of them, all with red loctite and never had a problem with them coming loose. You MAY need heat to get them apart.
The hub comes out of the bearing with the stub axle in place so no heat to the bearing.
New problem. When assembling the upright after cranking down the stub axle I noticed my C-Dash's speed sensor was broken. The threaded shaft at the wheel end was split. Can I assume this isn't a critical part and I don't need it to run? Are there any other systems that use the wheel speed sensor's information?
I used JB weld to join them back together, but I doubt the sensor will be functional. In fact I don't think it ever was since I've owned it. Should I just pull it entirely?
Last edited by toolo4sno; 07.26.18 at 10:05 PM.
I am finally, after almost a year of owing this thing, signed up for a track day at Grattan.
I have my suspension set at the baseline recommended settings. Everything looks good for the most part, but the front end is dangerously low. During my test drive around the block all I did was scrape. It was so low that I couldn't likely get two ply cardboard underneath if I tried. I expect the tracks I frequent to have better surface asphalt than my neighborhood block, but I was surprised by how much it scraped. I was also surprised that I couldn't get my center jack under the floor it was so low. Is this normal? Should I raise it at least to get my jack under there? Any other setup recommendations for a beginner going to Grattan? Initially my front push rods were at 22"; now I have them set to 22.75".
I will probably have video in about a week or so. I am not going to suggest to you that my driving will be worth watching, but I can say the video, audio and presentation will be stellar. Especially the audio, but we'll see if everything works as it should.
Which "baseline" from Enterprise? Front should be pretty low, but an original setup published years ago was nearly undrivable. Lots of different setups--driver and team dependent and also tire dependent.
Yes it's from Enterprise. I am seeing V2.0/5/07 on the suspension document. Undriveable isn't good at all. What made it undriveable?
Last edited by toolo4sno; 08.01.18 at 3:45 PM.
Someone else will have to chime in here since I don't do my setup anymore. I think that setup was from the old Hoosier tire. I know I don't want that much preload in the front anymore.
Unless you have added the GPS module and configured Pi logging to log when GPS shows motion you will not get any data.
You might see engine metrics but if your not logging often it reverts to pit lane or warm up screen.
Most times the logging is started by wheel speed sensor doing more than 5mph.
Only used with Pi system.
My only concern was some engine system using it for some odd reason. If pulling the sensor won't impact driving the car at all then I'm pulling it for now, because I am pretty sure it's toast or at least intermittent.
I can't find my latest setup with the new AR tires but I remember the front floor to be around 25 mm off the ground. In his test of the AR tires Mike Davies recommended a rake of 18-20 mm with hot tire pressure 14 PSI. Most folks jack the front from the center of the wing (using a flat plate/board to span the struts) or at the bolt that connects the lower A arm to the bulk head. Take a look at anyone’s side view of their open wheel car and its obvious no jack fits under the floor.
Andrew M. Cross, Jr.
I suppose I should mention I am running the Hoosier slicks, and have the Hoosier wets as well.
What kind of cold tire pressures should I start with?
In the past, hot pressure for Hoosiers was 20-21. Cold starting pressure is sort of an estimate as to how much of an increase you expect. Depends on ambient temp, how hard you drive, and the use of nitrogen vs air.
Andrew M. Cross, Jr.
How old are those tires?
No idea on the tire age. My quick googling said Hoosier racing tires don't have an easy to read date code. The last owner to run the car did so 3-4 times in 2015. I am going to say they are from that timeframe. I had my local tire shop rebalance both sets wets and dries. I didn't explicitly say look them over with a fine toothed comb, but I'd like to think they would have flagged any nasty signs.
I have a seeping leak on what I think is my transmission fluid's overflow tank drain bolt. Can I assume a crush washer is supposed to be in there? I can't really see one in place.
This is the small bolt in between the two lower bell housing bolts.
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