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  1. #1
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    Default Moving the pedals

    Hi Guys,

    Can anyone give me some pointers on moving the pedals? I know I need to remove the bolts on the bottom plate (of course) - but how do I move the pedals away from the master cylinders?

    Thanks,
    -Adam
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  2. #2
    Senior Member LenFC11's Avatar
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    Depending on how much room you need it's certainly easier to adjust the rods from the masters
    Cheers
    Len

    Porsche River Oaks. Houston

  3. #3
    Senior Member Nardi's Avatar
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    If you need to move the pedals a lot, you may need the extensions for the master cylinder push rods. Perhaps someone on Apex will have them, if not possibly Brad at Primus has them.

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys - so do I just pull the dust boot back from the master cylinder and there’s an adjuster I can turn there? I’m just not sure if it’s OK to spin the push rod or not?

  5. #5
    Senior Member LenFC11's Avatar
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    Carrol Smith's books are a great resource.. a must read for all newbies
    Cheers
    Len

    Porsche River Oaks. Houston

  6. #6
    Senior Member Nardi's Avatar
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    Just loosen the jamb nut and turn the push rods. It may have some resistance but it won't cause a problem with anything. I index the push rods before turning so I turn them equal amounts. You can also adjust the pedal pad if you need more adjusting.

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    My ESR (same as FE) has 2 sets of mounting holes in the floor, it's a big job to move the pedals (toward the rear in my case). I did need to get the MC rod extension's in order to maintain he pedal leverage relationship. Too much MC rod adjustment results I aweid pedal lean. Plan on some time t get this job done correctly.

  8. #8
    Contributing Member Lotus7's Avatar
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    If you are spinning the rods outward to move the pedal towards you, don't lose track of how many threads remain engaged. If you haven't done it previously, best thing to do is wind the rod fully out, then start counting rotations back in. Too few threads engaged when the pedal is where you want it means you'll need extensions.

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  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by LenFC11 View Post
    Carrol Smith's books are a great resource.. a must read for all newbies
    Great idea! Get Tune to Win and Prep to Win, they are now even available on Amazon but get them from one of our supporting venders.

    To get you started. The other end of the rod you have circled is rounded and sits in a cup that is the outward side of the MC piston so it is sealed and you can move it all you want. Some MC's have a circlip so you can't pull it out. Measure the distance of each rod on the 2 break MC's because you will want to put it back together with the same ratio. Unscrew all the pushrods by backing off the nut and then remove the pedal assembly. You may have to do both at same time if there isn't enough room to unscrew the rods all the way. Remount the pedals in the position that puts them in a comfortable place for you. (Remember that at full depression your foot does not like more than a little past 90 because then you tend to lift your foot and leg to push the pedal and that is not great in a formula car.)

    Now measure the new push rod distance and determine if you need extensions. Most likely you will. Get them from one of the places mentioned here or at a good local hardware store. Install by adding exactly the same to each brake rod to maintain your original ratio and something similar to your clutch and you are almost done. Don't forget to move or adjust the throttle too.

    HTH, Robby
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  11. #10
    Classifieds Super License stonebridge20's Avatar
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    Origional poster. You REALLY need to get Carol Smith's books.
    Apex is an amazing resource that I really wish I had when I started out but the Smith books I think are going to be invaluable to you based on your origional question.
    Stonebridge Sports & Classics ltd
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  12. #11
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    Thanks guys, I ordered the books this morning around 7:00 AM! He has a deal on his site for $99 for all of the books.

    Thanks for all of the tips. I need to move them around 1", and my car has the drop floor in it that will prevent the pedal assembly from moving much forward, so it would probably be a new front floor, etc. I may try to see if I can get 1/2" or so out of the pedal pads and make it work. I have the call torn down right now so it's probably the best time to do it.

    I'm a decent with wrenches but never worked on a master cylinder or a formula car - currently in the process of converting the car to ESR trim.

    Thanks again!

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  14. #12
    Senior Member LenFC11's Avatar
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    Sounds like you are too far away from the pedals.. maybe you should be making a new seat that can get you closer..
    Cheers
    Len

    Porsche River Oaks. Houston

  15. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by LenFC11 View Post
    Sounds like you are too far away from the pedals.. maybe you should be making a new seat that can get you closer..
    I am a bigger guy so sadly that would probably cause other problems

  16. #14
    Senior Member LenFC11's Avatar
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    My misunderstanding. Sounded to me as you were trying to move pedals forward

    I am also tall. I would replace the rods from masters with shorter ones to get as much room as possible
    Cheers
    Len

    Porsche River Oaks. Houston

  17. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by LenFC11 View Post
    My misunderstanding. Sounded to me as you were trying to move pedals forward

    I am also tall. I would replace the rods from masters with shorter ones to get as much room as possible
    By bigger I mean the huskier type

    I’d like to keep the seat further back but just move the pedals about 1” closer. It might not be needed - I’m going to do a test and tune day before I put the effort in - mostly because I will probably need a new floor or I’ll have to patch my current floor.

  18. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by schaibaa View Post
    By bigger I mean the huskier type

    I’d like to keep the seat further back but just move the pedals about 1” closer. It might not be needed - I’m going to do a test and tune day before I put the effort in - mostly because I will probably need a new floor or I’ll have to patch my current floor.
    Do a search here on replacing floors. They should be bonded and riveted and I believe SCCA requires 0.06 but 0.08 give a stiffer frame.

    Robby

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    Quote Originally Posted by BorkRacing View Post
    Do a search here on replacing floors. They should be bonded and riveted and I believe SCCA requires 0.06 but 0.08 give a stiffer frame.

    Robby
    Thank you much. I did notice that mine is bonded and riveted - the glue spread out in a few places. You guys have been super helpful!

    I’ll need to figure out what to use to bond it at some point.

  20. #18
    Contributing Member scorp997's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by schaibaa View Post
    Thanks for all of the tips. I need to move them around 1", and my car has the drop floor in it that will prevent the pedal assembly from moving much forward, so it would probably be a new front floor, etc. I may try to see if I can get 1/2" or so out of the pedal pads and make it work.!
    You do know that you can move the locknuts tithe pad side of the pedal and get more than an inch of adjustment
    -John Allen
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    (‘72 Royale RP16 stolen in 2022)

  21. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by scorp997 View Post
    You do know that you can move the locknuts tithe pad side of the pedal and get more than an inch of adjustment
    I see that on my clutch and brake but not my throttle - maybe that’s not the standard pedal? I was seriously considering bolting or riveting an extender to the throttle pedal and make the brake match. I didn’t want to do anything janky though
    Last edited by schaibaa; 04.07.18 at 12:11 PM.

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