Crankshaft pulley lock

[na94]

I am trying to remove my crankshaft pulley so that I can swap the seal that I damaged during the original conversion. With the transaxle locked, the clutch slips when I try and remove the bolt, so I need to lock the pulley in place (I don't want to split the bellhousing to lock the flywheel if I don't have to).

Has anyone found a tool comparable to the $300 Honda 'excalibur' one? If not, I may just make my own, but I would prefer to pick up a jobber tool off amazon.

[problemchild]

I have an advantage in that I have FV tools around which are required for FV flywheels and brake drums. So I use a tool that locks the flywheel by jamming against the teeth (standard issue for Air cooled VW). I then use a 3/4" drive johnson bar with a 3' extension. One shot with a sledge hammer breaks it free. I have got lucky on the 3 I did and the 1 shot did it before I rounded the bolt head or something else. Using different air guns (including big 3/4" drive unit) did not budge it.

Its the toughest part of the process

[Roux]

Make up a tool and never look back. Mine is crude as hell but holds the pulley like the honda one and you can loosen with bolt without access to the flywheel. Less than an hour invested so you are earning >300 an hour

let me know if you need a picture

Steve

[na94]

Thanks, I have a picture of the Honda one. Measurements for stud depth and radius would be really helpful, though.

Did you use 1/4" plate?

[Roux]

The plate was 3/16" and I drilled two 1/2" holes spaced to engage close to the maximum radius on the pulley spokes. Half inch bolts about 1.25 inches long after cutting off the threads were pushed through the holes, and heads welded to the plate at the back, The pins protrude 7/8". I welded a ~20 inch long piece of 1.5 OD conduit like material that has been flattened as the handle to the plate with some decent amount of overlap.

A bit crude, but if you refer to it as being rustic you can deflect some criticism.

Steve

[cjsmith]

Here is what I came up with, a simple piece of square tubing with a 1/4" thick piece of steel welded on the end to fit into the web of the pulley. As Greg mentioned, this is the most challenging part of the process. I like Steve's tool, nice job . Like all of us you try to come up with something that you can build or have some one make for you to get the nut off with out damaging the pulley.

[Neil_Roberts]

Here is a selection of cheap tools for this job.

LINK

If the link doesn't work for you, just go to amazon.com and search for "Honda pulley removal tool".

[na94]

Thank, everyone.

This one looks like it has potential:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-43580-S...PVE78S80RK94ZE

...but I think I will make my own. I will probably have it cut on a water jet, so I may just spec a hole to take a 1/2" breaker bar. If it works, I will post the drawing on here. I will probably try chromoly steel too.

I also like the idea of using the 1/2" bolts that have been modified. Press fit + a weld bead should work well.

[na94]

FYI, I am having a tool laser cut out of 3/8" 4130 that can be held with a 1/2" drive breaker bar. There is a minimum price so I am making 16 'blanks' - the tool less the bolts.

Here's what the profile looks like:
Honda-Fit-Crank-Pulley-Tool.pdf

If anyone wants one, I can get one to you for $20 plus shipping. They should be cut in about 2 weeks.

You will need to run the holes through a drill press before inserting and tacking the bolts. Drilling and reaming for a press fit would be ideal, which I did spec the part out for (.004 undersize of a standard AN bolt shank, which itself is undersize), but tolerances on the cutter are +/- .010".