Build Thread Swift FB89

[S Lathrop]

Steve, regarding your recommendation for the 3/8 inch hose for the oil cooler.
The Oil Cooler "input tubes" have an internal Diameter of ~14mm (0.55") so i thought about using a "dash 10" line because the internal Diameter is almost the same and i could fit the line over the input tubes..
Dash 8 would be closer to your recommendation of 3/8 inch, but harder to fit onto the input tubes.

Will i get problems with a Dash 10 Line because of excess Water circulating throught the head and the oil cooler and not getting into the radiator? Especially with running a thermostat? Tim

Maintaining the water pressure inside the block in absolutely critical. I fear that running a -8 or -10 hose will run the risk of lowering block pressure and allow the possibility of boiling water inside the head. I used -6 hoses when I did this and I had no cooling issues. That does not say that it won't work with a larger hose but be very careful. The problem will come when the thermostat is fully opened and water is slowing full speed through the engine. That happens when the water is hot and the potential for hot spots in the head is highest. Flowing a little water out of the rear of the head does help cool the back cylinders a bit better than having all the water exit at the front of the head.

[Tim.R]

The last weeks (since ~mid february) were spent working on the Lola, to get the car ready for the first event.
After the second event i finally got the time to get my engine back from the workshop and free up some time on the weekend to strip the swift back to a bare frame.

Obviously i found some problems on the way:
In post #40 i attached a picture which shows my oil pump and the Mocal water / oil heat exchanger on an blown block. After getting my engine back from the builder i noticed that my block has two more bosses for the engine mounting. These are interfering with the heat exchanger.
The heat exchanger will stay on the shelve until the next engine rebuild. Then i will take the time, get a freeze plug fabricated which has a water outlet (not that easy with the big and tall bellhousing) und figure out how to remove these bosses safely (I´m just too afraid to ruind the block!).

As i now have a bare frame i found some damage and old repairs, which need to be fixed.

The lower left framerail between the middle bulkhead and the rear "bulkhead" has a big bend in it. It is not bent inwards, so I´m struggling to understand how this happened. I think this will be cut out and a new rail will be welded in. I don´t like it to be "pulled out" and welded to the floorpan, as this will weaken the rail.


The left and right bars, which go from the middle of the front bulkhead to the lower corner of the rear "bulkead" were replaced quite dodgy. I would like to cut them out completely and weld in a new tube, which isn´t hacked into pieces.


The former owner of the car mounted the belts to the bar, where the radiator and the fuel filler are mounted. So this bar is quite damaged. I actually don´t know if i should just put nutserts in the holes and use them to mount the radiator and the fuel filler or if i should get that bar replaced


Some other things which will get changed on the frame:
- the mounting tubes (?) for the belts: these will be welded a little bit more inwards (center to center distance < 6 inches) to get the car ready for a driver with a hans device. It is not mandatory in the series i will race for beginning, but i like to protect my neck
- lower engine mounts: will be reinforced as per Neil Roberts (can be seen in the picture above). It looks like the welds on these mounts got rewelded in the same dodgy style as the bars and i don´t like this to be a problem, when the frame is fully restored.
- the tube, which goes around the oil pump, needs to be notched slighty different to prevent the adjustment screw from hitting it.
- a bracket for an adjustable clutch pedal stop will be welded to the front bulkhead
- steel floor (1.5mm -> ~0.06 inch) will be welded on when all bars are replaced and the frame is straight

The next steps are:
- wirewheel every weld to get the paint off the frame and check for cracked welds
- take the frame to the welder and get all things described above done
- put all things temporary in the "cockpit" and fabricate some small brackets for the body, switchpanel and arb adjuster and weld them to the frame.
- get the frame sandblasted and painted (white)

If anyone notices something what i should or shouldn´t do at this stage, please post it. I appreciate it!
Tim

[Gary_T]

For the upper front engine mount - put a 2nd tab on each outer chassis rail to put the joint in double shear (tabs in front of, and behind, the engine mount bar). I believe it is a single tab in single shear currently.

Gary

[Tim.R]

The mounts for the front upper engine mount bar are in single shear. They will be "upgraded" to double shear.
Thanks Gary

Does someone know how thick the lower frame rails are? I want send the dimensions to the guy who is repairing the frame, so he can order the materials before he gets the frame.
Another question is, my bellypan was quite a bit (1/2" per side) wider than the lower frame rails, does this have any function (could generate a little bit more downforce, but i don´t think this will be noticeable)?
I looked through my collection of Swift-pictures and can´t find another car, which has the bellypan this wide.

Regards
Tim

[Tim.R]

Quite some time since i last updated this thread but there hasn´t been that much progress . Mostly because i´m running into problems at every part of the car.


After not getting any information back from Swift (in UK) about the material of the frame i decided to cut a small (and already damaged part) of the frame out and send it away for an analysis. After two days i got the information that the material is S355JR.
The lower frame rails, the "middle" frame tubes and the material for the bellypan has been ordered two weeks ago and should get delivered in about a week.


I also got the new wheel bearings delivered (FAG 532066) and measured the the bores in the hubs (with the coordinate measuring machine at work).
All four bearings have an outer diameter of 63.993mm, the hubs have the following internal diameters:
Front: 63,848 mm (0,145mm undersize)
Front: 63,848 mm (0,145mm undersize)
Rear: 63,880 mm (0,113mm undersize)
Rear: 63,933 mm (0,060mm undersize)

Are the hubs of these early formula ford cars so soft, that the bores need to be "so much" undersize?
I learned that a bore for a bearing should not be more than 0,05mm (0.002") smaller than the bearing.

I´m currently considering a trip to my local machinist to get the hubs machined to spec but i´m afraid, that i could ruin them!


Any input and help is appreciated
Tim

[chrisw52]

for relocating the seatbelt mounts, PorterRacing sells a Hans adapter bar that bolts to the factory seatbelt locations and lets you mount the belts in a narrower position for the Hans device.

[racingflyboy]

Another question is, my bellypan was quite a bit (1/2" per side) wider than the lower frame rails, does this have any function (could generate a little bit more downforce, but i don´t think this will be noticeable)?
I looked through my collection of Swift-pictures and can´t find another car, which has the bellypan this wide.

Regards
Tim

Sorry for the late response to your question.

On my car, the belly pan is as you describe, or maybe even a full inch wider/side. The body panels sit just above the floor and cover this up when installed.

Steve

[Tim.R]

So, after quite some time i finally got my frame back from the shop.
I now have a welded on steel floor (front to back), the lower left frame rail between the roll hoops and two of the side-bars got replaced. I also added the tabs which Gary mentioned.

The bare frame now weighs 58,5 kg.

At the beginning of the next week i should get the alloy-sheets for the fuel cell surround and the front bulkhead.
The new body panels from swift cooper should arrive before christmas so the frame will be cleaned and painted in January 2018.

[xmazdatracy]

Looks great! However some people will point out that the floor should not stick out on the sides.

[Purple Frog]

What Tracy is saying.

If you are sliding sideways on grass those sides can dig into the turf and peel the floor off in a flash.

Seen it happen,

[S Lathrop]

I use 1.5mm aluminum angle strips and rivet and glue them to the sides of the frame. Works great and is easily repaired. I get the strips from my local hardware store, Home Depot.

The belly pan over hanging the lower frame rails is really a risky thing to do. Even more so because it is welded to the lower frame rails. Snag that lip and you will tear the lower frame rails apart.

[Tim.R]

Looks great! However some people will point out that the floor should not stick out on the sides.

What Tracy is saying.

If you are sliding sideways on grass those sides can dig into the turf and peel the floor off in a flash.

Seen it happen,

I use 1.5mm aluminum angle strips and rivet and glue them to the sides of the frame. Works great and is easily repaired. I get the strips from my local hardware store, Home Depot.

The belly pan over hanging the lower frame rails is really a risky thing to do. Even more so because it is welded to the lower frame rails. Snag that lip and you will tear the lower frame rails apart.

At first i wanted the pan "flush" with the frame-sides.
Then i changed my mind and called the fabricator to make the pan wider, as it has been.
Then i found the "Rethinking/reworking side pod fitment" thread and wanted to call my fabricater to tell him, to make the pan as wide as the lower frame rails.

I´m now considering to cut the pan as close as possible to the lower frame-rails (maybe 3-4mm wider, i don´t want to compromise the strength of the welds on the outside).
I think this is the best solution for now, at least it is better than the "full wide" pan!
Or does this sound like a bad plan?

[S Lathrop]

At first i wanted the pan "flush" with the frame-sides.
Then i changed my mind and called the fabricator to make the pan wider, as it has been.
Then i found the "Rethinking/reworking side pod fitment" thread and wanted to call my fabricater to tell him, to make the pan as wide as the lower frame rails.

I´m now considering to cut the pan as close as possible to the lower frame-rails (maybe 3-4mm wider, i don´t want to compromise the strength of the welds on the outside).
I think this is the best solution for now, at least it is better than the "full wide" pan!
Or does this sound like a bad plan?

Any lip will compromise the safety. Cut it flush and have the welder touch the welds along the out edge. It should tale him way less that 2 hours to do the job and that way you will be safe and you car will be much less likely to be damaged in a minor off track excursion.

That is what 40 years of racing advises.

[xmazdatracy]

Small details, but all very important. Especially since you sit on this thing. Imagine what butt/road rash/impalement might feel like.

Mine is welded too, but at the bottom with no lip. Also I just had my first off road experience and I am glad that it did not peal back as I was scrapping the pan across the track, rumble strips, and grass pan first the whole way.

Going back a step at this point is much easier than later. Looking forward to more posts!

[Tim.R]

edit:
Soo.. i´m currently trying to figure out how to upload pictures from google photos.
But, it won´t work out as i can´t get a "correct" link from google to upload here.
edit2:
I figured it out

First of all.. i took my time to carefully cut/grind down the sides of the floorpan.
Both pictures were taken before this step..

I redid all panels on the car, as most of them were cut up and dented.
It took some, but it was worth it



I fitted the pedals and the steering-components to the car to check my seating position.
1. I need to fit the extinguisher in front of the bulkhead, beside the battery. Otherwise i won´t be able to reach the pedals (they are already in the rear mounting position)
2. I need to get the mounting points for my belts lower and closer together (for the HANS-System). This will most likely end up like the porter racing seat belt bar.