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  1. #1
    Contributing Member EricP's Avatar
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    Default Wheel Bolt Attachement Point/D"ring"?

    As I contemplate tie-downs for my car, I'm remembering something I saw on an S2 last year. Owner had welded a D "ring" (it was fixed, protruding out about an inch) onto extra center wheel bolts. For transport he would exchange the standard bolt with the ring bolts, load and then use hook-straps forward and backward on each D ring (required two straps per wheel, pulling in opposite directions so that the suspension wasn't really torqued either way).

    Good idea? Bad idea? I'm planning on using nets but I wonder if this would be simpler. Not sure if it risks torquing something in the suspension in a bad way.

  2. #2
    Contributing Member TimH's Avatar
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    Doesn't sound simpler to me..
    Caldwell D9B - Sold
    Crossle' 30/32/45 Mongrel - Sold
    RF94 Monoshock - here goes nothin'

  3. #3
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    I mostly see them on sedans and sports racers where a wheel blanket would be hard to put over the tire and need an idler because of low ground and fender clearance. for open wheel it's hard to beat securing the vehicle by the tires, especially if you use a chassis stabilizer with them.

  4. #4
    Contributing Member EricP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner View Post
    I mostly see them on sedans and sports racers where a wheel blanket would be hard to put over the tire and need an idler because of low ground and fender clearance. for open wheel it's hard to beat securing the vehicle by the tires, especially if you use a chassis stabilizer with them.
    Is there a cheap approach to a chassis stabilizer like heavy foam under the belly pan? I saw the Mac’s one and it seemed a little pricey.

  5. #5
    Contributing Member DanW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EricP View Post
    Is there a cheap approach to a chassis stabilizer like heavy foam under the belly pan? I saw the Mac’s one and it seemed a little pricey.
    Years ago, Purple Frog described using a pair of tire tubes under the chassis and inflating them to raise the chassis.
    “Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty.” -Peter Egan

  6. #6
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    I was told it is preferable to tie down chassis so as to stop movement of the springs and shock while trailering. If you tow 250 miles, that's 250 more miles on your suspension.

    Just a thought, Rob

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  8. #7
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    allowing the suspension to work keeps trailer twist from working on the frame. the chassis stabilizer is a compromise between no motion and full motion.

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  10. #8
    Classifieds Super License BeerBudgetRacing's Avatar
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    I looked at the D-ring / loop and was going to make some.

    After thinking about it a while, I'm thinking that since I have pit wheels, why not use motorcycle chocks type things and secure the wheel to them...
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptm-pp2911

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptm-pp1678bk

  11. #9
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    www.wrenchaholics.com

    Rental, Coaching, and Data Analysis for Great Lakes Region

  12. #10
    Grand Pooh Bah Purple Frog's Avatar
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    I vote for wheel nets. Always used them with success. And they are easy.
    There is something about pulling on D rings on the ends axles that worries me.

    I sort of remember that DaveW opens all the valving on his shocks during transport to eliminate extra wear on them.

  13. #11
    Contributing Member Steve Demeter's Avatar
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    I agree with the purple one. Although I don't use nets I use ratchet straps attached to tie downs in the floor over the tires.

    Never had one come loose in 40 years.

    But the nets are most definitely more robust.

    The stresses that a d ring on a wheel nut would put on an axle scare me to death.

  14. #12
    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Purple Frog View Post
    ...I sort of remember that DaveW opens all the valving on his shocks during transport to eliminate extra wear on them.
    I used to do that at times when I had little bleed area in the shock pistons. However, I haven't done that in many years. The rubber torsion suspension and LT tires on the trailer cushion the trailer and racecar quite well.

    And I do use wheel net tie-downs attached to floor-mounted D-rings on the rear. On the front I just put a strap attached to D-rings over the outer top rod-end on the suspension to keep the car attached to the floor if some disaster occurs.
    Dave Weitzenhof

  15. #13
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    I use the Mac's tier blankets for dragster fronts. Been using them for nearly 7 years with no problem.

    After Roebling this spring, the car come loose in the trailer at some time late in the tow. I think it happened going over speed bumps in the RV storage yard. The only thing that saved about $1500 of rear wing assembly was the new 90 deg tailpipe extension I had to put on for breaking sound that weekend. the car didn't roll forward because the tie down acted as a shock and it had to roll uphill against the beaver tail. it rolled backwards and the pipe ate a half-inch divot in the rap before I got home.

    They don't call em Roses for nothin!

    Still haven't figured out what happened. Towed all the way to Indy and back, no problemo.

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