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  1. #1
    Senior Member DK540's Avatar
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    Default Replacing one ramp door cable

    Did a search here and on Google and could not find the info I wanted.

    I have a used, 2004 Haulmark 8x20 Race Trailer I am re-habbing and it only has one ramp door cable. It works fine - tension, etc. - but I would like to put the other cable on for safety, maybe even both since Haulmark sells them as a pair.

    My search kept turning up stuff on adjusting the cable by way of adjusting the spring tension. Not necessary I don't think, IF there is only one spring or if the tow are connected in a way that tension is created on the left spring when the door comes down. Right side is fine. I just need to install a cable on the left side.

    Because the spring tension is already good, I am hoping I can just thread the new cable into the spring drum, let the door come almost all the way up, and attach the eye end to the door.

    Plausible? Tension imbalance? Are springs separate? (entire spring/drum/shaft assy. is covered by interior aluminum)

    If so, it seems I could put the new cable on the left side, go up and down with the door a couple of times, and then use the same process to replace the right side cable, though it is possibly under more tension.

    DK

  2. #2
    Classifieds Super License racerdad2's Avatar
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    Default

    Hmmmm.... IF you're comfortable using the tension rods I'd loosen it up, count the turns, then install both sides starting with equal tension. I've done many garage doors and my ramp door. Slow & deliberate. IF it's your first time I'd have some help alongside for extra safety.
    "An analog man living in a digital world"

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  4. #3
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    Default

    We used to take a block of wood and put it under the side of the door with the cable off and have someone stand on the other corner to flex the door.

  5. #4
    Senior Member Nardi's Avatar
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    Default

    What Dad said. It's not particularly hard to do. A couple of 1/2"dia (I think) rods, maybe 10" long.....Enough to hold on to and provide a bit of leverage to oppose the spring tension. Wrench to loosen jamb bolt(s). You need 2 rods so you can SLOWLY rotate the tensioner +/- 90* per rod. Count number of turns to relieve tension so you know what to return to. You can even play with the tension amount depending on door weight.
    Look at your garage door spring to see how it all works. Same principle.
    I found the biggest pia was removing and replacing the cover over the whole spring assembly! Really!
    Give it a shot......It won't hurt......Too much! JK!

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  7. #5
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    Default

    Just make darn sure the 1/2" rod is bottomed in the next hole before putting any load into it!

    I had to change the spring tension in my trailer door after I removed a flap from it. I missed the step in some online adjustment instructions (Many to read/watch here.) where you are supposed to lock the shaft with a pair of vise grips. As soon as I loosened the hub in the middle of the shaft, the shaft spun due to the wire tension and the two wire spools unwrapped, leaving a bird's nest of wire in each corner. Don't do that.
    Last edited by captain_pants; 03.30.17 at 12:06 PM.

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  9. #6
    Contributing Member Steve Demeter's Avatar
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    Default

    Normally the trailer doors are set up in this area much like an overhead garage door.

    Just be darn careful when you loosen the set screws to use the rods to wind the spring.

    I would highly recommend having a helper.

    There is a lot of stored energy there, even when the door is up/

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