You are using the bump stops as a major part of your suspension. As such, I would keep the shim between the 2 bump stops. You get a better spring action if the bump stops work against smooth, hard surfaces.Originally Posted by scott fairchild
You are using the bump stops as a major part of your suspension. As such, I would keep the shim between the 2 bump stops. You get a better spring action if the bump stops work against smooth, hard surfaces.
New question on old thread
Steve, great information! What changes do you suggest for the new Hoosier Vintage tires as far as spring rates?
Rob
'78 Zink Z-10C
The following is only applicable if the Hoosier tires are the FF spec radials. My ride height numbers and spring rates will work for the bias ply tires but forget the camber and toe numbers.
Your biggest issue w be get the negative camber. Front should be 3.5 to 4 degrees negative and rear 2.5 to 3.
Front ride height should be 1.5 inches and the rear should be what ever gives you the balance you want. Spring rates in the 400 to 600 pound range. Again what ever gives the feel you want in the car. Springs might be 500F and 400R or 500F 600R. With the stiffer rear springs, you will run a lower ride height. With 400R ride height might be 2.5" and 600R it might be 1.75". I like the stiffer and lower setup as a general rule. The stiff rear springs makes the car more neutral on corner exit.
You will want to toe the car out at both ends. Something like 1/8 inch out from the front to the rear of each tire.
Last edited by S Lathrop; 02.28.17 at 7:15 PM.
The vintage treaded FF tires are bias ply. If you start with the alignment settings that Gary had on the car for the Hoosier R60s, that would be a reasonable start.
I used the Bilstein shocks(Steve Lathrop's settings) with 775# front springs, 580# rear. 1-3/4" ride height front, 2-1/8" rear
0.8 deg negative camber in front Toe out 1/16" per side
1.5 deg negative camber rear 0 rear toe.
5/8" front sway bar. The rear bar was full soft. I balanced the handling front to rear with rake (rear ride height adjustment.)
Best of luck.
Dan
“Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty.” -Peter Egan
Dan,
Was your ride height with or without driver? Which rear bar?
Seems that as the spring rates are increased on the Z10 the handling goes from understeer to neutral to oversteer. Same for rear ride height? More rake reduces understeer?
Rob
Sorry for injecting some confusion into this discussion by giving the setup for the Hoosier radial tires. Been doing a lot of work on setups for the radial tires and it is easy to forget what I am really being asked about.
Rob,
Ride height is always established with driver weight and 1/2 tank fuel in the car. Measurement points were directly under the front and rear corners of the chassis. That ride height gave me a light rub with the nose in the Corkscrew at Laguna.
I used a 3/4" x 0.065 tube for the rear bar. You may find the spring rates I used a bit high if your local tracks are rough. Steve's recommendations for springs may be more optimum.
Save your money on the wizzy shocks. The motion ratios of the Z10 cannot leverage the benefits of them. The Bilsteins are a good shock and work fine.
Just drive the thing and have fun!
Dan
“Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty.” -Peter Egan
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