Advice for new to me trailer hunting

[zookie]

I have a 16' enclosed and would like to go up to a 20' or 24' for a number of reasons. This could be a brand new trailer or could be used.

This is my first trailer and while I've learned a lot about trailers, tires, bearings, and towing. But I know I have a lot more to learn and when I'm looking for a new trailer for the purposes of motorsports (and not just for my current very small formula car), I'm hoping people here can help give me some direction.

I need it to be at least 8' wide, I believe. Though I'm not sure why I wouldn't just go up to 8.5".

The reasons to go wider or not are probably my biggest area in needing help. If I go 8.5' I'm assuming the wheel wells will bump into the inside trailer space. Is this a big deal or do most of you have trailers that have the wheel well bumps in your trailer? I pull with a large GM gas SUV. At 8' or 8.5' will I need to get extended side mirrors to see around it?

The other is V nose or not. I hear about better gas mileage and if it's just a consensus that V nose is the way to go, maybe this is an easy question...other than it costing more.

I don't believe this trailer will be aluminum. I think long term I may want an aluminum trailer at some point and while I'll shop it, my guess is that it is substantially more expensive and this will not be the last time I upgrade my trailer in one way or another, I'm sure.

If I go new, or even used, what are the manufacturers that I should definitely check out or if there are some I should definitely stay away from that would be helpful as well. Best I've got is to steer toward manufacturers that have been around and will likely be around for a while but I'm not sure who this is other than some google searches. But some references here would be very helpful.

Other than that, I don't know what I don't know. Should I be asking questions or considering anything else as I shop for a new to me trailer?

Thanks for the advice in advance!

[zookie]

Shoot. Mods, just realized I put this in the classifieds forum instead of the general discussion trailering forum. Can you move it or is there a way that I can? Or just delete and I'll repost? Sorry about that.

[quartzracer]

Copied from the F150 site>

Enclosed cargo trailers are build worlds apart in quality yet all look very similar.

The standard siding and roof aluminum skin used in the industry is .025-.035".
This aluminum is designed to be an enclosure and weight constrictive. (supposedly the best for lightest trailer)
Unfortunately, this also makes it prone to damage including bad weather and is easily defeated as deterrent for access (break in's). You can gain entry in a 0.030" aluminum skin trailer with a pocket knife.
Higher quality trailers will sacrifice weight for a .040" aluminum that gives structure, is more secure (requires tools to break in) and resists damage and weather much better.

Skin attachment is usually done with rivets and screws in the lighter aluminum. Panels are layed over each other like fish scales and seams are caulked to try and make them weatherproof. Heavier aluminum like the 0.040" use 3M seam/panel sealer. This is the same process used on most newer cars to hold on body panels. You will still have the fish scaling overlay. No screws or rivets needed. This makes for a clean exterior than won't have screws or rivets coming out.

Most manufacturers make trailers on 16" centers for floors, some do walls and a few do the same on the roof bows. Some use square/rectangular tubing for all structure, others use angle and pressed steel panel supports. Tubing is the preferred metal. Pressed panel structure is also prevalent because they can be made from very thin sheeting reducing weight but hurting structural integrity.

Interior paneling is also a place where manufacturers' cut costs.. but can also hurts structural integrity. 3/4" ply floor is pretty standard.
Some bottom end trailers will not even have interior walls or made from very thin veneer.

Lower quality trailers with sub-quality frames and week interior paneling are usually pretty easy to spot on the road as you can watch the rear door (doors) sway in the door opening as the trailer travels down the road. The thin veneer also does very little to protect the trailer from objects falling in the trailer that can easily break through the exterior.

If you notice I am not naming brand "X or Y". Most manufacturers' are also making different quality levels of trailers. This mean high end trailers are built well but entry level trailers are poor in comparison. This makes it very difficult to buy a used trailer as you might think "Brand X" makes a good trailer and you end up buying an entry level trailer with "Brand X" on it.

Suspension is almost always springs with higher end manufacturers having torsion axles. LED lighting is pretty standard these days. Radial tires should also be a quick way to see if the manufacturer is cutting corners. Bias tires are usually another cost cutting measure.

Long story short, you get what you pay for.
There has been a long history of manufacturer's trying to cut corners and getting caught in economic decision issues. Many of these lead to them going out of business. Unfortunately many great trailer manufacturers' have also gone out of business from the poor economy and the recent history of material sky-rocketing slowing sales even more.
In fact over 60% of trailer manufacturers have gone out of business in the last 6 years... most because they couldn't weather out the poor sales due to rising material costs.

[steve zemke]

I have a 24', aluminum, V nose that has been to Arizona and back. Pulled it with a 3/4 ton Suburban. No problems. Next trailer is going to be some form of goose neck, fifth wheel.

[Kazis31]

Complete trailers ,Colorado.
Full aluminum ATC.
Excellent build quality and you can pack any mods you want in it.
super light.

[Pop Chevy]

Be careful of some of the trailers mage down south, I have seen VERY lightweight frames made of sheet and no paint at all on them. Not good for us northerners that have to put up with rough roads and salt. when you go to look at trailers look underneath. There are a lot of manufacturers in Ga, and Fla, etc. Great prices, some are good some are junk. Choose wisely.

[patman]

8.5' for sure. Wheel wells are not a problem.

I have a V-nose and like it. Tows a bit easier, although not a huge difference. The advantage for me is the extra space for tires/winch/tool box without taking up any cargo room.

I have found it is cheaper/better to buy a basic trailer and then add the bells and whistles yourself just the way you want. E-track is a good example, cheap and easy to install, and a necessity IMO, but only comes on much more expensive trailers.

If you buy a cheaper trailer, make sure to look on top and bottom. My current trailer is a budget one, and they did a terrible job with sealing the roof, and a terrible job with undercoating. Both fixable, but a crap thing to find after you buy.

If you have a diesel tow rig, don't bother with aluminum, but if not, it is worth looking into, the lack of corrosion is a nice thing to go along with the lighter weight.

[zookie]

Thanks all. Checked out the ATC and what I could find online. Those are awesome, naturally, though unless I can find one used I probably can't swing it this time. Maybe next upgrade! Looks awesome though.

I like that extra room in the v-nose. Extra sqft is extra sqft! I don't mind at all doing some of the labor work installing e-track, pitpal stuff, etc.

I'll have to find a place locally that I can start looking at different trailers closely to understand the weak areas, poor construction, etc. I get what you guys are saying about checking close though. I'll just have to learn what that means as I review some.

[jaltaman]

I did this upgrade a couple of years ago. I had a 20' enclosed trailer and ended up getting a 24' Haulmark Edge. It has been a transformation, in that the cabinets and extra space save at least 8 hours per race weekend by not having to pack/unpack/pack/unpack the truck like we did before.

The length seems about ideal - it's easy to tow, easy to park, but has lots of room. I've got 3 sets of tires/wheels, a large rolling toolbox, a car hoist, setup tables, rolling car stands, 3 fuel jugs, the formula car, an ATV, air compressor, generator and all the tubs of parts/spares in the trailer. Fits easily.

As for the width, outside is 102", inside it's 96". Yes, there are fenders inside the trailer. No, they are not an issue.

I couldn't go with a V-nose, and have never towed one, so I cannot comment on that. However, my trailer tows like a dream, but I also use an Equal-i-zer weight distribution hitch which I also recommend (towing should be uneventful).

As for things to have in a trailer - get cabinets. I am not a fan of the L-shape cabinet layout that seems to be en vogue right now, because the leg of the L intrudes on space in the trailer, so I would advise just having a set of lower and upper cabinets that go horizontally across the trailer.

I also highly recommend the rubber diamond plate flooring. It's good stuff.

You'll want tire racks on the sides, and you can do that yourself. Check out Pit Products as theirs are awesome.

My walls are carpeted halfway up, which is nice but not mandatory.

A side door that is 4' wide, preferably with heavy duty hinges so you can mount a door cabinet if desired.

As mentioned, LED exterior lighting should be expected, probably on the inside now as well. A pair of halogen / LED outside lights on one side are also nice, along with electric outlets inside and out, plus a 30-Amp connector outside for a generator.

You may need to replace the beaver tail on the rear door with a longer ramp. We use a solid 6' ramp and it makes loading the car a breeze - no boards required. You can do this modification after you get the trailer, and again, Pit Products is your friend.

Anyway, I hope that helps. Good luck!

[Steve Demeter]

Zookie,

Try looking at Tegtmeyers in Wilmington

https://www.tegtmeyertrailers.com/

[Jim Edmonds]

Zookie, Please don't believe anything I say. As Regan said, "trust but verify".
Almost all trailer manufacturers put too small wheels and axles on their trailers. They'll tell you their size is OK . . . but they mostly aren't. I hate changing tires when it's 115 degrees in the desert . . . or at night when the cell phone users are coming within 3 feet of you at 80MPH. My personal rule: With the highest load you can imagine you shouldn't be over 70% of a trailer tire's load rating. On a 20' trailer 225-15 tires are on the edge so when running a 20' I carry two spares. A 24' trailer needs 16 inch tires and 7000 pound axles . . . even if it's just licensed for 10,000 pounds. Over 24' consider 17.5 inch tires. The 17.5 tires are God's gift to those who want to run 80MPH across the desert on the hottest day of the year.
Although, if you live in cold country and don't tow over 55 or 60 you can get away with a lot.
I go to the truck scales regularly; and split the trailer axles across two scale pads. Yes the scales are accurate enough with an offset load. Once you do that on a regular basis you'll get better at your front to back loading . . . not just load it and see if it sways when you drive off. It's only $10 or $12 at most scales.
You said future motorsports. That means a lot more weight than you are thinking about with a formula car . . . unless you're already planning to carry the wife's Fiat or her golf cart. Of course more capability means more tow vehicle requirements.
Really, consider 70% of a trailer tire's maximum load rating as the maximum you'll put on it. Happiness is making it home Sunday night without a trailer flat, Ha. Like I said, don't believe anything I say.
Jim Edmonds, Phoenix, AZ