WTB rear drums

[Amon]

If anyone has nice rear drums for sale, please let us know!

Thanks!

Mark

[budawe]

It will depend on whether you are running a contemporary zero roll car. If so, I'd recommend the ICP us made drums. Richard Pare makes them and is a frequent visitor to this forum. If this is for a vintage vee, after market Brazilian drums will work fine and can be had from any local bug vendor. If you have trouble finding them let me know and I can source and ship for you.

If you plan to buy used, make sure there's enough material to refinish them. If there is still a bevel on the edge of the friction surface, the drum can be turned. I do not recomend running drums that have been not refinished.

[Jeremy Soule]

Why the distinction of a different type of brake drums for different suspension styles?

[Daryl DeArman]

I would not recommend using lower quality rear drums no matter whether vintage or modern. They don't last long and if you don't strip the splines out before they crack, you have a safety issue because you tried to save a few bucks.

Let the guys who putt around in street bugs and ol' vw powered sand rails and dune buggies use the cheap drums.

On a semi-related note, I heard that Brembo was moving a foundry to the USA. What's the chances we might not be playing the lotto as to where those Brembo drums are made?

[budawe]

The side loading generated by zero roll cars is considerably higher than traditional z bar or vintage cars. The ICP drums eliminates the weep hole and is quite a bit thicker in the webs.

The key contributor to rear drum failure are sharp edges in the inspection and weep holes in the face of the drum. Radius the openings and the sharp edges in these holes and the stress riser action that starts the cracks will be lessened and they will provide good life for vintage cars.

I recommend that all new rear drums be retorqued after the first couple of sessions. After running, new splines settle in a bit and could result in loosening of torque. Don't be afraid of high torque settings. I go for about 350#. You can use a torque meister or a big breaker bar and a helping hand. A helping hand is a long bar with a bracket that allows you to bolt the bar using the lug nuts. I don't like using the wrench that requires a big hammer to bang the nut tight.