rf f1000 diff bearing housing

[steve123]

Hello all,

I'm trying to locate the Diff bearing support housing that mounts the Diff to the frame.

The shoulder bolts that were used kept snapping and wiped mine out.

I switched over to ARP bolts, Hope this works better.

I'm having a lot of trouble locating them.

I have attached a drawing for identification.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Stephen

[Mike Devins]

what kind of dif?

They surely can be made as long as you have the drawing. If I can help let me know.

[glenn cooper]

If so, they are asymetrical - the top and bottom mount holes are different distances from the center of the bearing - there is definitely a TOP and a BOTTOM when mounting.
The drawing looks like they are the same distance?

[steve123]

what kind of dif?

They surely can be made as long as you have the drawing. If I can help let me know.

Yes I am preparing to make them myself that's why I made the drawing

Was curious if anyone knew who made the originals.

The original Diff was from a Ford Fiesta the previous owner upgraded to a Quafi
The same Housing will accommodate both

[steve123]

If so, they are asymetrical - the top and bottom mount holes are different distances from the center of the bearing - there is definitely a TOP and a BOTTOM when mounting.
The drawing looks like they are the same distance?

Yes 2009 RFR F1000

[glenn cooper]

All RFR parts are made in the UK by them or their suppliers.
If you are breaking the mounting bolts you have a big problem.
The std bolt is a blk oxide 10mm AHCS (allen head), as far as I know there is only one grade of that type bolt.

[HayesCages]

From a bolt supplier:

"The standard among high-strength fasteners, these screws are stronger than Grade 8 steel screws. They have a minimum tensile strength of 170,000 psi. and a minimum Rockwell hardness of C37, unless noted. Length is measured from under the head."

[steve123]

All RFR parts are made in the UK by them or their suppliers.
If you are breaking the mounting bolts you have a big problem.
The std bolt is a blk oxide 10mm AHCS (allen head), as far as I know there is only one grade of that type bolt.

Thank you all so very much

The bolts that are breaking are the shoulder bolts that mount the sprocket to the Diff.
The threaded portion would snap off, then the remaining portion would back out and damage the bearing housing.
I heard that this is pretty common.

[glenn cooper]

OK, Classic case of "now we have all the correct info to offer helpful advise!

The std sprocket mount bolts are fully up to the task.
I kinda hated that they were shaved down heads of an allen bolt that left the depth quite shallow, but enough to get a 10mm allen socket to hold it, while the nut on the other side was tightened.
I believe the car came with nylock nuts, which people tend to reuse, which they really should not be - I get that you can reuse a few times successfully, but what really will work is the use of a Jet Nut (US), or "K Nut" (UK), which are essentially the same thing - a ONE TIME USE fastener, which when removed should be tossed into the bin, or saved in a small jar, which can later be made into a stylish, although quite heavy necklace.

The deformed outer circumference of the top of the nut's threaded portion ensures it will hold tight.

When the cars are being built, the assembled dif, w/ sprocket is dropped into the chassis.
The interference fit of the bolts is such that they need to be driven out with a very long drift. It is messy, time consuming, and really needs massaged to enable sprocket changes.
I took all of mine, spares too, and chucked them up in a lathe and removed a tiny amount of material so that they slid and in and out with moderate pressure.
The first time removing them was "trying"...

8x1.25mm Jet Nuts, Qty 100, spares on hand!