Sparco Helmet Speed Limits?

[Alain]

Ok, this issue may be a little different. I recently bought a Sparco WTX-5 helmet, and am very happy with it. There is one little problem though, The plastic air vent on the crown, present when the green flag waves, is no longer there after the race (75 Crossle 33F F2000). This has happened twice.

After the original departed, I ordered a new one ($80!) and noticed that the Sparco solution is thin strips of 2-sided tape. Given the performance of the original, I elected gorilla glue, which did not work either. So, I have a new one again (it does a good job of keeping my helmet fires to a minimum), but need advice on the best adhesive to keep this piece of plastic on my non-painted helmet.

All suggestions that I should perhaps slow down a little will be ignored. Thanks

[Robert J. Alder]

Plain old 3m double sided (the 1/16" thick grey stuff with red peel off separator) worked fine for me. Available at any hardware store. Hasn't come off yet. In fact, use that stuff for lots of race car uses. (insignias, etc.) I think its original use was for stickon automotive trim.

[formulasuper]

Epoxy?

[lancer360]

The 3M tape referred to is UHB (Ultra High Bond) tape. Much stronger that the typical white double sided foam tape. It can be found in some autoparts stores. Not sure if it will work but could be worth a try. More permanent option would be an epoxy as suggested.

[Robert J. Alder]

Nope. Just that thin "foam" type tape. Actually it's called "acrylic foam tape". Here's a link. Most Ace Hardware of automotive stores carry it.

[lancer360]

We are talking about the same tape. I had the name wrong. It is VHB (Very High Bond) not UHB.

[Revs2-12k]

Subscribing since I'm quite interested in this helmet. Looking for other input.

Hopefully after Oct 1st, 2014 the WTX-5 will be certified as Snell SA2015. Would be worth the 2-3 month wait. IMO.

[Steve Demeter]

The 3M acrylic foam tape essentially replaced mechanical fasteners to hold bodyside moldings on various vehicles.

Bonded to a properly prepped BSM (made of flexible PVC, a very difficult surface to bond to) and adhered by merely pressing it against a strip of 0.005" aluminum, let it set for 24 hours to develop max bond strength.

A 1" wide strip of the stuff will take in excess of 100 pounds to pull off in a 180 deg peel (the toughest test of adhesion) pulling at a rate of 3 inches a minute with a tensile test machine.

I know all this stuff cause I made them for almost 21 years.

Had to change one on a friends RAM once. Had to use a screwdriver to get it started. Then had to drill a hole on the molding to get an s hook with a piece of rope on it. Then had to pull as hard as I could to get it off.

The stuff works very well needless to say.

I would recommend wiping both surfaces with rubbing alcohol, allowing them to dry completely. The tape is pressure sensitive and you need to apply enough force pressing it into place to compress it to 1/2 of it's original thickness to get the best bond.

Properly applied to most anything other than PVC or TPO/TPE in this manner it will hold like grim death.

It does not like porous surfaces though.

[dalz]

I have the now-defunct ADV Sparco helmet and I never put them back on after my helmet art shop got done with it. Yikes, 80 bucks?

For a while they were using this helmet for the celebrity in the two-seat Indycar ride. TWICE I saw on TV the plastic vent go flying as soon as Mario or Arie wound it up.

[Rick Kirchner]

shoo goo or its workshop equivalent. best general purpose adhrsive i've ever found, as long as hydrocarbon resistance is not a requirement