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  1. #1
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    Default New owner of Caldwell D9B

    Hi,

    I've been around as a lurker for a long time, and now I have bought a car.
    Its a bit of a project, but I enjoy tackling them. Working on something so I really understand how it works vs. just getting a pristine one is more exciting to me.

    Anyway, the car is missing the bodywork and radiator, but was a running car doing hill climbs 3 years ago and has been sitting in the corner of a shop since then.

    The car is a Caldwell D9B (on the serial tag) chassis number 72010076
    It came out of upstate PA, I'm not sure exactly how much history it has prior to the early 90's, when it had a different body on it.

    I have been searching for pictures and other info about the car, and have found a few nice examples throughout the US. one was even in the Atlanta area at one point not too long ago. Anyone else in the area have one I could take a look at from time to time?

    So far I have found a few people that can make a set of bodywork for the car, and possibly have a line on a radiator. Though for the radiator I figured having one custom made would be the way to go, I just don't know what Im having it made to.


    I have attached a few pics of the car from when I got it home. I had to clear some garage space, so it got stuck outside for the day.

    If anyone knows anything about the car, or can suggest some good info, Im new to this, and look forward to learning more about it, and getting it running again. Full restoration to vintage race specs will follow later.

    Brian
    Last edited by btjsb9; 11.24.14 at 2:14 PM.

  2. #2
    Contributing Member TimH's Avatar
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    I should have my rodded-out radiator back in a few days and will get you measurements and photos. It's brass, so I'm guessing it's original.

    Welcome to the addiction!
    Caldwell D9B - Sold
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    RF94 Monoshock - here goes nothin'

  3. #3
    Contributing Member ric baribeault's Avatar
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    Any log books? Could very well be my first car back in the 70's

  4. #4
    Contributing Member marshall9's Avatar
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    I dunno much about Caldwells, or bodywork for them, but have tied down a few racecars on flat trailers in my day, and suggest using lower places on the car for that purpose and it will be more secure.....Right rear CV boot is in danger from the ratchet. I think where the lower wishbone connects to the chassis is a good rear tiedown point, between it and shift linkage... front looks okay..... surprised that it didn't fall off the way it is, and also NEVER tow a FF with the car in a gear to keep it still, the back and forth motion moves the pistons up and down without lubrication and shortens ring life...not that it is my business, or tech advice, but it would be a shame to look in the rear view mirror and see the car bouncing down the freeway off the trailer after you put the resto money into it. Also, my shock builder suggests trailer tires, under inflated if towing long distances will increase time between shock revalving/shock oil maintainence intervals. Optimally, e track with the tie downs over all four tires is best as an alternative, but probably not practical with that trailer, unless you can measure and cut squares out of the trailer floor , installing tie down bars in the centers in front of and behind the wheels. Then the tie downs go over the top of the tires, holding the thing down.

    Nice project car, looking forward to pics as you come along with it !
    Last edited by marshall9; 11.19.13 at 8:58 PM.

  5. #5
    Contributing Member marshall9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ric baribeault View Post
    Any log books? Could very well be my first car back in the 70's
    Aren't they all?

  6. #6
    Senior Member Neil_Roberts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marshall9 View Post
    ... Optimally, e track with the tie downs over all four tires is best as an alternative ...
    That's what I do, but there is a risk if you load a warm car and tow into the dark. The tire pressure loss can slacken the tie down straps. I arrived home once with two straps completely off and two almost off. Check them every time you stop.

    Sorry about the thread creep. Congrats on the purchase! I wish I still had the D9 that I drove in the mid '80s. It was the best handling car that I have ever driven. I could make it do anything with only a small change in control inputs. The handling and the tiny dimensions made it a perfect autocross car.

  7. #7
    Contributing Member marshall9's Avatar
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    "That's what I do, but there is a risk if you load a warm car and tow into the dark. The tire pressure loss can slacken the tie down straps. I arrived home once with two straps completely off and two almost off. Check them every time you stop."

    Hence, junk wheels and tires for towing.....................change em, checking every fuel stop goes without saying

    Thread creep is off topic, but may save the man a lot of dollars and aggravation based on the pics.


    Congrats on the car, please post pics as you progress!

  8. #8
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    Tim, great! that will be a big help, then I can get to work on making it run again.

    I was looking over the car a little more last night, it seems there is still fluid in the brakes, but they have no pressure when stepping on the pedal, the previous owner said the Girling master cylinders were know for going bad when sitting. Whats my best route to fix this?
    are there master cylinder rebuild kits available? or is there a point to updating to a newer design master? I will probably go through all of them just to be sure.

    I do have a log book for the car, it only dates back to about 91 though.
    And at that point in time it had a set of bodywork on it that was far from original Caldwell parts (from the pics) I will get my hands on it from the box its in, and try to post some info.

    as for the tiedowns, thanks for the advise, I did not put the car in gear, just figured i would grab the upper shock mounts to pull it forwards, backwards, and down a little The two on the roll hoop were really just safety straps in case we had a short stop. We pulled out of Atlanta on friday at noon with a super motard on the truck, dropped that bike in Woodstock GA, picked up the trailer in Chattanooga, TN, then headed for Binghampton New York to pick up a touring motorcycle for my friend, then to Philadelphia, PA to get the car. It was getting late, and we were stopping in DC for the night, so I was in a bit of a rush. over all it was 2000 miles in 2.5 days with 1 delivery, 2 pickups, and a beer/dinner thing, that we were too late for dinner for. What an adventure!

    it looks like it has a fairly recent fuel cell, though not encased in a metal box, so I am not sure if there is anything I can do with that. I assume from sitting i will need to clean the carb, and I noticed the water pump belt is toast. otherwise any other suggestions to look at prior to firing it up? Also any recommendations for a battery? I have nothing to go off of, so now clue what to look for for cca, or anything.

    I played with it a little last night, pulling off some of the aluminum paneling that does not belong.

    mostly it was just packing it in its new home next to my other project. need to finish the cage in the Spec Miata and get it going.
    Last edited by btjsb9; 11.24.14 at 2:14 PM.

  9. #9
    Contributing Member TimH's Avatar
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    Well, yes, there are rebuild kits. Maybe you need a couple. But maybe a proper bleeding is all you need. Or there's a leak somewhere.

    Some organizations do require you enclose your fuel cell. I'd do it for sure, if only to keep debris from potentially causing a puncture.

    You do know to pre-oil a race engine?

    I'll take some pictures today and PM you my direct eMail address.
    Caldwell D9B - Sold
    Crossle' 30/32/45 Mongrel - Sold
    RF94 Monoshock - here goes nothin'

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimH View Post
    Well, yes, there are rebuild kits. Maybe you need a couple. But maybe a proper bleeding is all you need. Or there's a leak somewhere.

    Some organizations do require you enclose your fuel cell. I'd do it for sure, if only to keep debris from potentially causing a puncture.

    You do know to pre-oil a race engine?

    I'll take some pictures today and PM you my direct eMail address.
    what is a good source for parts like the Girling rebuild kits? I will try to bleed first, but I have a feeling the car has been sitting for longer than he said. the belts are dated 01, SFI, so i am guessing its been a few years since it was campaigned.

    Pre-oil, as in roll the starter without the ignition on to work oil pressure before actually starting?
    Last edited by btjsb9; 11.20.13 at 1:15 PM.

  11. #11
    Contributing Member RussMcB's Avatar
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    Congrats on the purchase. I smile when I think of the expression on your face at Road Atlanta when you ended the phone call with the seller. "I think I just bought a Formula Ford". :-)

    Looks like a good car and a fun project. Also looks like you already have a few fun projects in your garage.
    Racer Russ
    Palm Coast, FL

  12. #12
    Contributing Member TimH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by btjsb9 View Post
    Pre-oil, as in roll the starter without the ignition on to work oil pressure before actually starting?
    Yup. Even better if you pull the plugs so there's no work against compression.

    Pegasus certainly has Girling rebuild kits and nearly anything else you might need. I'd be surprised if Keith Averill doesn't, too.

    You have a PM for images.
    Caldwell D9B - Sold
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  13. #13
    Contributing Member provamo's Avatar
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    the pick-up points at the top of the rear uprights seem to have been modified via extension plates....i noticed that the upper rear radius rod seemed to be at an unusual angle

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    I have a Caldwell D9 and can send you pics and info about these cars. Someone already mentioned the rear upright extensions being unusual. I don't see a rear anti-roll bar on your car. The original body won't fit with that front roll hoop, so you'll have to decide if you want that safety feature. On my car the front and rear master cylinders are different sizes, 3/4 and 5/8, so be sure to check before you order. My contact info is Thomas dot Sabo at Teradata dot com.

  15. #15
    Contributing Member TimH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by provamo View Post
    the pick-up points at the top of the rear uprights seem to have been modified via extension plates....i noticed that the upper rear radius rod seemed to be at an unusual angle
    Any speculation why one would do that? I can see why a hillclimber could do without anti-roll but wasn't aware there were geometry problems with the original D9.
    Caldwell D9B - Sold
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    RF94 Monoshock - here goes nothin'

  16. #16
    Contributing Member provamo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimH View Post
    Any speculation why one would do that? I can see why a hillclimber could do without anti-roll but wasn't aware there were geometry problems with the original D9.
    there were "geometry problems" with "all" the cars once fat slicks with cantilevered sidewalls became the norm

  17. #17
    Member pahillclimber's Avatar
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    Plenty of pictures of this car on the pha museum and archives facebook page.
    Driven by Jim Cosner jr, Nelson Kase, JW Orrs sr and jr.

    Rich

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by pahillclimber View Post
    Plenty of pictures of this car on the pha museum and archives facebook page.
    Driven by Jim Cosner jr, Nelson Kase, JW Orrs sr and jr.

    Rich
    Got a link?
    I tried searching for it, but came up empty.

    Your right, those are the names I remember from the log book

    NVM, I found it, I was trying to out smart myself for searching.
    Last edited by btjsb9; 11.22.13 at 9:47 AM.

  19. #19
    Contributing Member Earley Motorsports's Avatar
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    Is this the one that was in Grassroots Motorsports magazine?
    Cheers, Graham.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Earley Motorsports View Post
    Is this the one that was in Grassroots Motorsports magazine?
    Cheers, Graham.
    Was in is the correct term!

    Yep that's the one

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    Contributing Member Earley Motorsports's Avatar
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    Cool, congrats on that, glad to someone here get it. That looked like a good deal.
    Cheers, Graham.

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    Default Caldwell spares

    I recently sold my Caldwell to a gentleman on the west coast and have some spare Caldwell parts he did not want to purchase.

    New engine cover, grey primer

    Rear uprights with stub axles, bearings calipers and rotors

    few other misc parts

    If you're ever looking for these items, keep me in mind. I'm pretty local to you in Aiken SC.

    Rick Little
    Last edited by rick little; 11.23.13 at 12:48 AM. Reason: location

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    Congratulation on the purchase Brian, another D9 owner here. I'd also be happy to provide any info or pic you may need. I'd also be interesting in any leads you find as far as bodywork goes. Keep us posted on progress, it's great to another one getting saved. marrepka at gmail dot com

  24. #24
    Contributing Member TimH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick little View Post
    New engine cover, grey primer
    How much? Was new owner crazy not to grab it?
    Caldwell D9B - Sold
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  25. #25
    Contributing Member provamo's Avatar
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    how dissimilar is the super vee body work?

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    Default Caldwell spares

    Quote Originally Posted by TimH View Post
    How much? Was new owner crazy not to grab it?

    Hey Tim,

    I don't know, maybe $500 for the cover, uprights, axles, etc. I've also have rebuild kits for the calipers, used steel wheels.

    Send me your email and I'll forward you some pics.

    My email rslittle@optonline.net

    Rick

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    Default Caldwell D9B

    Greetings -

    I just purchased a 1971 Caldwell D9B as well - I am out in the San Francisco area.

    I have pictures if you are interested. My car is also a project and in pieces at this point... I would be happy to share any of my experience.

    I was looking for example nose emblems if anyone has pictures. I have recreated the logo from pictures that I could find, but it seems most of the pictures are a bit different.

    Here is a link to some great history and pictures for the Caldwell:

    http://dougfraser.com/dfre-history.html

    Kurt
    kurt.joerger@sbcglobal.net

  28. #28
    Contributing Member TimH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kjoerger View Post
    I was looking for example nose emblems if anyone has pictures. I have recreated the logo from pictures that I could find, but it seems most of the pictures are a bit different.
    Yup.

    Here's the emblem that came with my car:



    Then last year I bought an old weathered set of bodywork from Gordy, and it had a badly rusted stamped medallion which we recreated in acrylic:

    My guess is there were probably many changes through the years. Neither car I've encountered had the emblem on the steering wheel which can be seen in some records.
    Caldwell D9B - Sold
    Crossle' 30/32/45 Mongrel - Sold
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  29. #29
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    It's my understanding that the FSV bodywork is the same as the D9B bodywork.
    Andrew Morrison (WA) has body molds and windscreens.
    amorrison@t-zeroracing.com

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by btjsb9 View Post
    Hi,

    I've been around as a lurker for a long time, and now I have bought a car.
    Its a bit of a project, but I enjoy tackling them. Working on something so I really understand how it works vs. just getting a pristine one is more exciting to me.

    Anyway, the car is missing the bodywork and radiator, but was a running car doing hill climbs 3 years ago and has been sitting in the corner of a shop since then.

    The car is a Caldwell D9B (on the serial tag) chassis number 72010076
    It came out of upstate PA, I'm not sure exactly how much history it has prior to the early 90's, when it had a different body on it.

    I have been searching for pictures and other info about the car, and have found a few nice examples throughout the US. one was even in the Atlanta area at one point not too long ago. Anyone else in the area have one I could take a look at from time to time?

    So far I have found a few people that can make a set of bodywork for the car, and possibly have a line on a radiator. Though for the radiator I figured having one custom made would be the way to go, I just don't know what Im having it made to.


    I have attached a few pics of the car from when I got it home. I had to clear some garage space, so it got stuck outside for the day.

    If anyone knows anything about the car, or can suggest some good info, Im new to this, and look forward to learning more about it, and getting it running again. Full restoration to vintage race specs will follow later.

    Brian
    Brian, This may be the D9b owned by J.Cosner and raced by his son in PHA hillclimbs in Pa. Later raced by N.Kase and then by J.W also at the hills.It was originally modified with side radiators and a different shell-then had a cage installed. It's obvious the cage is gone , but the wheels look familiar. If you have the logbook look for those names. If you think that may be the car, I can put you in touch with Jim Cosner for some history.

    Ted K. 610 847 5202

  31. #31
    Contributing Member provamo's Avatar
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    Default originally modified with side radiators and a different shel

    for a brief period in 1974 i co-ownded a Caldwell D9b that sported side radiators and a wedged nose cone from a TSR FV

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    Quote Originally Posted by provamo View Post
    for a brief period in 1974 i co-ownded a Caldwell D9b that sported side radiators and a wedged nose cone from a TSR FV

    That sounds like it might be this car.
    It had an odd shaped wedge nose on it. Definitely not the original bodywork.
    Here's a pic I found of the car,

    Ted, yes. That is this car, it has some remnants of the cage left on it.

    I haven't been playing with this car much, been busy finishing the other project first.
    Last edited by btjsb9; 11.24.14 at 2:14 PM.

  33. #33
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    Default D9b

    Quote Originally Posted by btjsb9 View Post
    That sounds like it might be this car.
    It had an odd shaped wedge nose on it. Definitely not the original bodywork.
    Here's a pic I found of the car,

    Ted, yes. That is this car, it has some remnants of the cage left on it.

    I haven't been playing with this car much, been busy finishing the other project first.
    Thats Jim Cosner's car.

    Ted K. 610 847 5202

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    Quote Originally Posted by TED K. View Post
    Thats Jim Cosner's car.

    Ted K. 610 847 5202
    I have the log book somewhere. I think it's I'm my file for all the cars/bikes.

    But that name seems familiar. There is a pic of that body, and color in the log book from when it was issued in 1990

    I will give you a call sometime later this week. Thanks!

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by btjsb9 View Post
    I have the log book somewhere. I think it's I'm my file for all the cars/bikes.

    But that name seems familiar. There is a pic of that body, and color in the log book from when it was issued in 1990

    I will give you a call sometime later this week. Thanks!
    Brian, I have a 1970 D 10. The shell on the D9b appears to be the same as the D 10. the D9 was different. Morrison's repo shell looks just like mine but needs some prep before painting-the originals could be used as is in gel-coat.. His windscreen looks good but needs a LOT of trimming to make fit.The Girling cylinders might be corroded from water -if the bore can be easily cleaned up, Pegasus, in Wi., sells the rebuild kits and new-the price is not that different for SAFETY. Check the bore sizes for what you have and what you should have.If you want more history, call Jim-I'll get his phone no.,he'll be happy to talk to you.Send me a picture when it's done.

    Ted K. greyeagles@msn.com 610 847 5202

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    Dave Isselhard has 3 D10s and molds for the bodywork.
    I don't know if they are the same as Morrison's (both in WA)
    Dave also made a run of nose badges a few years ago.
    His contact info is mk1racing@juno.com

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