How important is it to have a heat shield between the carb and the valve cover on a kent?
I recently saw a car with a fab'ed aluminum heat shield, but I don't know if there is much value there.
How important is it to have a heat shield between the carb and the valve cover on a kent?
I recently saw a car with a fab'ed aluminum heat shield, but I don't know if there is much value there.
"The winner ain't the one with the fastest car, it's the one who refuses to lose." - Dale Earnhardt Sr.
Colder air= denser air = more hp. Can't ay how much for sure, but it can't hurt. Mine has gold foil on the back side to reduce surface temp.
When I ran an FF, and later the Pinto-powered FC, I used a box that completely (as much as possible) surrounded the carb and intake manifold. The "heat of vaporization" of gasoline is very large, and you want the carb and manifold to retain that evaporative cooling as much as possible. When I first added that on my FF, the difference was VERY noticeable. The engine went from getting "soft" in a lap or 2, to actually getting faster as the cooling effect progressed.
By my "butt dyno," I would estimate 3-5 HP worth.
Dave Weitzenhof
Thanks Dave!
Looks like I can add that to the winter list I've started.
Any recommendations for the best place to buy gold foil/heat shield materials?
Cheers,
Ross
Last edited by R.DeVoe; 11.03.11 at 5:32 PM.
"The winner ain't the one with the fastest car, it's the one who refuses to lose." - Dale Earnhardt Sr.
I would like to do the same does anyone have a picture of one?
I bought some from C&R Racing in Indy. Its expensive everywhere though...
Pegasus: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=1838
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'Stay Hungry'
JK 1964-1996 #25
http://www.koolmat.com/heatmast.shtml
http://www.koolmat.com/zc.htm
"Generic" foil backed cloth is visible bolted to a frame next to the carb. My fabrications skills are almost non existent so this is not an "elegant" solution.
The Heatmaster material is what Coop did a group buy on this summer for Firman FB's. It obviously is draped over the headers. Zero clearance lines the tail.
Pat will lower the Heatmaster price some from the web site prices if you talk nicely.
My bodywork contacts the headers which is why I went to the Heatmaster. Zero clearance seems to block heat MUCH better than the "generic" silver material which previously lined the tail per a "hold hand on outside of bodywork as long as possible" test.
FYI the square of silver material on the firewall is zero clearance protecting the Microdynamics rev limiter. For autocross a rev limiter is pretty handy AND we have lots of "hot soak" between runs so protecting from radiated heat with no airflow is important.
Dick
85 VD
CM 85
Last edited by Dick R.; 04.10.12 at 10:16 PM.
Simple aluminum shield on my Club Ford. Not pretty, but it's funtional. The exhaust header radiates quite a bit of heat and is pretty close to the carb. The heat shielding on the plug wires melted a bit so without the shield it could possibly melt the air filter foam.
Last edited by AlanVDW; 12.31.11 at 3:17 PM. Reason: edit
Van Diemen RF 79 #? Van Deimen RF 78 #231
It's not how fast you go.
It's how well you go fast.
Alan,
You might try "hanging" some generic foil/cloth heat shield material from the top of your aluminum shield down to the top of the headers where they bolt to the head. With the foil side towards the headers, of course. It does a good job of keeping the plug wires relatively cool. Secure with "safety wire string" as an experiment. My third pic shows mine. I needed the Heatmaster material to protect the tail bodywork.
Dick
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