Toyota Atlantic Engine - Fresh Top National Loyning

[SRavndal]

Sold

[chazcd1]

Seth;
Why are you changing your car? Do you have a second engine?
Chas

[SRavndal]

This is the only engine I have left, I didn't want to sell it until I made up my mind to change for sure.

[Steve Demeter]

Haven't seen you in a while.

So are you getting a different car or a different engine for the Swift.

Steve Demeter

[John B]

$26k, Are you on crack??
Sorry, I couldnt help it...

[bill gillespie]

Hi John,

I doubt he's on crack.....a new Loyning/ Hasselgren/ Jennings/ Elite FA engine in top club spec is at least 10-15k More than he is asking. Unfortunate, but true.

You might check your facts before you flame a forum member.

Regards,
Bill Gillespie

[H82BSLO]

$26K + $10K to $15K seems an awful lot of money.......is that really true ??

[Rick Ross]

The only cheap Atlantic motors come installed in cars. For $25K to $30K you can get a complete DB4 or 008 with spares package and a perfectly good motor. Assuming there are no hidden problems, you should be able to get the motor rebuilt for around $6K, and then you are good to go for another 1000 miles or so.

On the other hand, a run-out used motor alone (seperate from a car) will cost at least $7K or $8K. If you are changing chassis you will need to buy sump, valve cover, adapter plate, flywheel, etc. And depending on what came with the motor, you may need intake, carbs, fuel injection, oil pump, oil filter, crank trigger, etc. This all adds up fast, and you can be approaching $20K before you know what happened.

[rickb99]

$26k, Are you on crack?? Sorry, I couldnt help it...

We don't run FA but I don't think the "SR" number is at all unreasonable.

I believe when the Formula Atlantic Series was 'cooking' the engine program was a trade in your tired one for OVER $30,000!

And I've heard some mind boggling numbers for FA engine rebuilds too..

[Charles Warner]

On the other hand, a run-out used motor alone (seperate from a car) will cost at least $7K or $8K. If you are changing chassis you will need to buy sump, valve cover, adapter plate, flywheel, etc. And depending on what came with the motor, you may need intake, carbs, fuel injection, oil pump, oil filter, crank trigger, etc. This all adds up fast, and you can be approaching $20K before you know what happened.

This is spot on. I purchased a (purported) good motor for 8k. After it overheated on the second session it went to Jennings. Rebuild: 15k. What most racers forget (or just don't want to consider) is that these parts have a life. A block or head is not good indefinately. They wear out. The heads get porous over time. The blocks can't be relined. The cranks need replacing. You can not keep rebuilding a set of parts into a good motor. Eventually you have to replace the larger items and this is where the inflated costs come in. Starting with good known parts and lifing them is the best way to operate one of these engines on a reasonable budget.

[Charles Warner]

$26K + $10K to $15K seems an awful lot of money.......is that really true ??

Read what Bill wrote. A new engine will cost this. Not a rebuilt existing motor.

[H82BSLO]

Seth, what do you mean by "Club" configuration engine ?

[SRavndal]

The "club" configuration basicly means that the injectors are relocated from between the throttle plates and the valves to outside of the throttle plates wich provides a little more atomization time and when done properly results in more power.

[SRavndal]

For clarification, I have only rebuilt this engine once and it was rebuilt once by the previous owner. I agree with the previous comments that these do not last forever even when diligently maintenanced and regularly rebuilt.

I plan to have the engine at the runoffs for those that want to see it first hand.

Price of course is negotiatble.

[P.W. LeCain]

Hi John,

I doubt he's on crack.....a new Loyning/ Hasselgren/ Jennings/ Elite FA engine in top club spec is at least 10-15k More than he is asking. Unfortunate, but true.

You might check your facts before you flame a forum member.

Regards,
Bill Gillespie

10 -15 more? $41,000 for a Formula Atlantic motor? If that's the case, we have a couple to sell. I'd even include some crack at that number.

[bill gillespie]

paul,

Geez, did the word "NEW" get written in disappearing ink ? Didn't know you were hoarding some NEW engines...lol

Bill

[Rick Ross]

An Atlantic owner I know recently bought a fresh complete motor from a reputable engine builder for approximately $15K. I'm sure that all the major components were used (block, crank, etc.) The motor included intake, injectors, oil pump, oil filter, and flywheel. I think that this was a pretty good deal. I spent more than that building up a spare DB4 motor.....probably because I was converting from a 008 and had to buy everything (valve cover, sump pan, carbs, intake, etc.). If I did it again I would just call up the engine builder and tell him what I need, and let him provide all the necessary bits and pieces.

[bill gillespie]

Guys,

Seems most think I'm back on the crack pipe....so......here's a thought. Call the engine builder of your choice, and ask him the price for a NEW, bolt-in, engine in top spec.....don't forget the ECU, Sump, Valve cover, etc.

I think you are in for a shock........ask me how I know.

Regards,
Bill

[Matt King]

Engine prices like that make a crack habit seem affordable.

[H82BSLO]

Thank goodness for Mr. Farley, he is looking after me, obviously the cost of living is lower in Missouri than other states !!

[Rick Ross]

Thank goodness for Mr. Farley, he is looking after me, obviously the cost of living is lower in Missouri than other states !!

We're not talking about rebuild or repair prices here. We are talking about calling up an established Atlantic engine builder and asking him to send you a complete fresh engine plus accessories. I believe that Bill is referring to an engine with NEW components (block, crank, cams, rods, valves, ECU, etc.), and I am sure he is absolutely 100% correct about the price.

However, as I pointed out above, apparently it is possible to get a complete fresh motor (less ECU) for around $15K. This motor would have a used crank, block, cam, rods, etc. No ECU, and probably the older TRD injection system from the 90's. A perfectly good motor for most club racers, but probably not quite the power of the top dogs at the Runoffs.

[DB4 Tim]

WOW these prices blow me away...remember I am a Mazda 12a guy so it is surprising, and a good reason I chose a 12a..SORRY Toyota dudes

[SRavndal]

Updated the price to 20K OBO.

This engine does not have many miles on it from being new (Original build) and it makes strong power.

I need to make this move, I have and don't have the room for it anymore.

[chazcd1]

If you still have this for sale, please give me a ring. 9174458377,
Chas

[SRavndal]

Bump, looking at the recent listings for parts I think this priced pretty fair.

[John B]

.

[SRavndal]

This is still sitting sealed up in my garage. Needs a home and I am being told to free up the floor space now. I can deliver to the runoffs. Offers?

[SRavndal]

I just learned that the new thing is to modify the 1600's to 1800's and that of course requires some rework.

Still a regional killer and will need to put some money into this to be Nationally competitive.

Anyway, lowered the price again. Got to go, baby has reset priorities around my place!

[DB4 Tim]

A bit of an increase from 1600 to 1800

[Stan Clayton]

Tim, he is talking about displacement. See Table E in the FA section of the GCR. The 1800cc engine is the largest that will physically bolt right in to a RT-41, DB4 or 008/014 without extensively reworking the engine bay. To get that displacement they use a Toyota 7AFE block and crank with a 4 AGE head, rods and pistons. It all bolts right together because the 7AFE is nothing but a 4AGE with a longer stroke and a taller bock.

Because this combo displaces greater than 1615cc it must use an SIR. My guess is those guys are using a 31mm SIR, because that would allow the car to come in at its natural weight. One can't get a 008 or 014 down to the weight for a 30mm SIR, and an additional 75 lbs would have to be added to go up to a 32mm SIR.

Based on the times from this year I am guessing they're up only slightly in horsepower (if at all) from the 1615cc engines they used last year. but with the greater displacement and the SIR I am also guessing they've also picked up 15+ lb-ft of torque and better drivablility. I'll be better able to guess the engine characteristics when the Club publishes the trap speeds.

[aspenripper]

PM sent

[PMPerformance]

After what we saw at the runoffs this year the 1800 is definately the way to go..We all also had a meeting at that time concerning other engine packages also..There was quite a bit of talk about a 2.0L?? We are waiting to see final decisions being made by the CRB but we'll probably be changing all our cars to 1800's..