Knowing the expertise of Mr. Camadella...
I keep looking at blown up pictures of the steering wheel. I can't quite make out the label on the lower right yellow button. Does it say DRS? Maybe i need to trace that harness again.
Knowing the expertise of Mr. Camadella...
I keep looking at blown up pictures of the steering wheel. I can't quite make out the label on the lower right yellow button. Does it say DRS? Maybe i need to trace that harness again.
Last edited by Purple Frog; 09.26.11 at 10:42 PM.
Beautiful! Can't wait to see it in person.
You do not look angry: you look focused (not a Zetec pun, by the way). Somebody shoulda said "Smile!" before they clicked....
Question: Are either the front or rear ARB cockpit-adjustable? I could not see anything connected at either end.
"I love the smell of race fuel in the morning. It smells like victory!"
Barry Wilcock
Pit Crew: Tumenas Motorsports/Houndspeed, Fat Boy Racing
Okay, I'll accept "focused." And I'm not going to defend myself against shorts and Crocs (even with black socks) when it was probably 105 F under that tent.
Both the front and rear ARB could be driver adjustable, but I'm not a big proponent of both. We are thinking we will probably make the front bar driver adjustable, and we have the nice Comprent adjusters ready to go on the car.
It says DRS...which could stand for all kinds of things, most of which start with "Driver." Yes, Camadella and I could design and build an driver adjustable wing in less than a week, but I have little doubt Rule 20 would be invoked before it even hit the track! (Actually, I think the 2011 GCR prohibits driver adjustable wings now.) I'm also sure I don't want to give the average driver a button that reduces downforce.
Nathan
DRS: Driver Removal System
It is an eject button, as in a fighter plane...
"I love the smell of race fuel in the morning. It smells like victory!"
Barry Wilcock
Pit Crew: Tumenas Motorsports/Houndspeed, Fat Boy Racing
It stands for Diagonal from Red Switch. This is intended to remind you that the yellow switch is located diagonally across from the red one.
Pretty sure it's either that or Doppler Radar System.
Don't worry, no need for apologies or frowns.
I've had some requests for more detail in a couple of areas, so here goes.
The front tie rods are cut lengths of a custom streamline aluminum extrusion. The center hole is extruded at the tap drill size for 5/16-24 thread. We machine to length and a slight profile shape at one end to clear the wishbone, tap the two ends, one left hand and one right hand, and the part is finished. Retail price is $26 each.
The front and rear wing pylons are also cut sections of a custom hollow extrusion. The front pylon has cross holes that fit barrel nuts, the rear pylons are essentially spacers. They retail for under $30 each.
All of these parts will be black anodized (I've been a bit busy and haven't sent a batch of parts out recently).
With few exceptions, every assembly on the car has a retail price less than the equivalent for a Van Diemen. Since I'm also usually the one programming the CNC parts, and I'm lazy, I tend to design parts that are easy (and fast) to set up and machine. As a result, even though some of the machined parts look very trick, they are actually fairly inexpensive.
Glad to answer specific questions, either through postings or PM/emails.
Nathan
Last edited by nulrich; 01.06.15 at 4:16 PM.
I was curious about the construction of the roll hoop fairing. It looks like it has panels riveted on, but how is the center "tow" section reinforced to allow pulling/lifting ?
The center section is machined from solid steel in two halves, TIG welded together around the top of the roll hoop, then TIG brazed to the roll hoop. The rules don't allow openings in the bodywork that aren't used for cooling, so the fairing can't completely cover the roll hoop. Also, we needed a good spot to lift and tow the car.
The cover is also designed to provide a wear surface. Hope we don't ever have to test it, but the idea is that if the car ends up upside down sliding along the track surface there will be a substantial amount of steel to grind through before reaching the roll hoop itself. Then the fairing can be removed (one of the reasons it's brazed on) and replaced.
Here are some photos.
Nathan
Last edited by nulrich; 01.06.15 at 4:16 PM.
Thanks for the pictures, cool solution. But I'm missing how a fully faired roll hoop violates the bodywork opening rule (forward facing openings IIRC), unless you mean an opening that would be required for a strap.
As the designer, fabricator and test driver of a home built DSR (7 years ago). I have to express my astonishment and awe at the wonderful job you have done and the original thinking you have performed Nathan.
Marty Nygard
The more I see, the more impressed I become. What a neat, well-detailed, nicely crafted racing car. Can't wait to see more of the details and hear more about her testing.
Glad she's American! Congratulations, Doctor!
Chris Crowe
Last edited by Christopher Crowe; 08.01.11 at 11:37 AM. Reason: idiot spelling
IN REGARDS TO POST #31
I could tell by the black socks with shorts ... ... That is leaving nothing to chance.[/quote]
LOL
Last edited by Reddog; 11.01.11 at 8:48 PM. Reason: CUZ
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