Reynard Dash

[azjc]

Any one have a picture of the standard dash layout on a 87 & up Reynard FC? I've got what's left of a modified original dash and a home made dash... would like to see what it looked like before I finalize mine.

[Revs2-12k]

Here you go, my 87SF dash....Being 22yrs old w/ 4 known previous owners, I'm not sure if it's stock or not.

Hope it helps.

[rickb99]

Wow, not sure AZ.

The one I have here is a 'shorter' more tilted dash that I believe may have been built when the front hoop cross brace was cut out. It's doesn't stick as far down into the car.

Here's a really nicely blurred shot of that one out of the car at the moment. If Jeff see's this, he may be able to get a shot of what may be the original dash design. It is 'taller' attach's more upright and has more space on it.

NOTICE we do not have that cross brace with the padding on it. Jeff is 6' 2" and in a frontal impact that cross brace would/could break his knees.

Some day when I feel like throwing good dollars after bad ideas, I'm thinking about getting one of these slabs or cardon fiber from Pegasus. Then, totally destroy it in an attempt to make a dash (should be legal if CF mirrors are). After all, the dash is 'attached to the car', not a part of the body work, etc., etc.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...?Product=CF001

AHHH HAAA. Now that I see an original, original dash in those pictures, what they did to this one is just cut the bottom off to make it shorter. The other dash looks more like the one above.

What's that black knob on the right for? The one next to the ignition on switch?

[Purple Frog]

The black knob in the photos is an 89 1/2 upgrade. Some older cars were retrofitted, day-glo orange ones especially . It's the nitros control.

[rickjohnson356]

Most of the time when I see that kind of switch/button it is usually the starter button.

My opinion (even though you didn't ask) is that you need to design the dash with instrument and switch placement to suit yourself.

'Standard' placement is for street cars. we have unique cars, but generally the tach is right in the middle.

I usually rotate the tach so redline is straight up. If needle gauges are not combined (watertemp/oil press), then have them point up at 'normal' readings. However, with limited dash real estate, combo gauges are prevalent. I just changed out a mechanical wt/op for a digital combo gauge with indicator lights built in. Don't have an AIM yet, though.

[akilcoyne]

Froggie....I figured it was the choke....

[SWMyers]

My opinion (even though you didn't ask) is that you need to design the dash with instrument and switch placement to suit yourself.

In my last major rebuild I redid the Reynard dash to center the tach and fit an oil temp/oil press gauge on the right side. (Water temp remains on the left.) It's a tight fit but it can be done.

[Revs2-12k]

The black knob in the photos is an 89 1/2 upgrade. Some older cars were retrofitted, day-glo orange ones especially . It's the nitros control.

Ha! I had to read that twice to catch that little smart-aleck comment Frog, that's right, I remember now that you've raced against a certain Day-glo car at Daytona....Actually it's a pull type switch (just like a choke akilcoyne ! ) for my LED rain light.

I added the switch that sits diagonal on the upper right to operate a small 5-1/4" radiator fan for Solo & Hillclimb events. I also added the Longacre low oil pressure warning light.

[thewarehouse]

Here is a pic of mine. From a 90SF.

[azjc]

Cool, just what I'm looking for. I'd like to keep the car somewhat correct for the period and simple, so I plan on using the basic original layout but with a few changes that make it "feel" right. Also will lose the dash cross brace & shorten the dash a bit so my knees fit!

Rick - what supports your steering shaft? I was going to move the cross brace that goes under the steering shaft to above, but now plan on using a 3/4" rod end on the steering shaft going up to the forward braces for the dash via a 1" square tube. Should give me lots of knee room and a bit of adjustability...

[rickb99]

AZ,

The rod end sounds like a good idea. Sorry for the very poor quality photos.

1.
The "steer3" photo shows the block ours uses to guide the steering shaft. I'm 99% sure this is the same block you will find mounted to that cross brace now.

2.
The "steer1" photo from the cockpit side shows 2 brackets that were fab'd and welded to the forward front hoop braces. The brackes are welded about 3.5" down the hoop braces and cut to the proper length to keep the steering shaft angle the same as original.

3.
"steer2" photo shows the brackets from the front of the car. And, you can also see the points where the cross brace was cut out.

Using a rod end off of a new cross bar between the braces would require less precision then what was done on ours. As the new cross bar would be angled, the motion range in the rod end wouldn't be a problem and the finish fab length wouldn't be as critical. Our steering shaft is a standard 3/4" diameter.

P.S. our other dash is identical to the layout on Warehouse's. Must be original design.

[azjc]

Here is a pic of mine. From a 90SF.

I like the location of your fire extinguisher handle... I need to move mine from below the dash, too close to my knee.

[thewarehouse]

John,

That rod end idea really does sound good. I am 6-1, as I sit in the car now I have about 1" of knee clearance. I may end up doing the same thing. Or maybe just wear my hockey shinguards!

Jp

[rickb99]

Warehouse,

Yes, our driver is 6' 2". He REFUSED to drive with that cross bar and his knees 'up' right behind it. He works for a living and needs his knees to accomplish his job. Any impact that resulted in the knees coming back would 'involve' that cross bar (just a dash and steering block mounting point) in a bad way.

It's my understanding that the bar has been removed from quite a few 87 to 92's. Cut the bar out and add two tab's off the hoop farther out to the edge of dash for mounting it. See picture "steer1" above. Ours also has two 1 7/8" long "sleeves" on the LONGER bottom screws and one short sleeve on the top screw. This tilts the dash upward for better instrument view.

[racer27]

The Citation uses a plexi-glass dash, held in place wiht 4 well nuts. If your knees ever can in contact with the back of the dash it would just pop out. The plexi also supports the steering shaft. 3 years and no wear. Simple, effective and cheap.

We've also set it up so steering wheel hight can be adjusted up or down based on driver preference. This beyond the factory ability to move wheel in or out by pinning/bolting the shaft at different lengths.