Yes i checked the pump. There is suction and return from both scavenge sections. I did not disassemble the pump but by spinning it i can feel both sections working. It would seem that no pins are sheared causing one section to not operate.
Yes i checked the pump. There is suction and return from both scavenge sections. I did not disassemble the pump but by spinning it i can feel both sections working. It would seem that no pins are sheared causing one section to not operate.
as there might be enough friction there to make it spin, it does not take much to pull down, then you also can inspect the rotors, and houseings, it is important to check every part of the system to try and find just what the problem is.
Roger
Stripped the, pump no broken keys. I did not have clearance specs but the wear seems acceptable.
Now we start to put it all back together, I guess you have new bearings etc, check bearing clearence with Plasti Gauge strips when doing bearings, blow out all oil lines, or better still flush them out, check everything, then check it again, see if you have a buddy close to help you, as four eyes and two brains work well, and no beer until each part is assembles and checked, don't rush.
Roger
Done. I checked and guaged all the mains and rods over the weekend the clearances were within range and the crank was not scored. There was a slight taper to one rod journal but that will have to be fixed over the winter. all the lines were blown out and the pan is back on and sealed.
As I have learned through just 2 trials and errors, when all else fails, go back and read Keith Averill's, R. Pare's and Purple Frogs posts.
CREW for Jeff 89 Reynard or Flag & Comm.
so to speak, well when you fill it up with oil, take note of how much it takes, and once you have oil pressure (plugs out) dip the tank, then run the engine for about 5 - 10 minutes check the oil level again, see what the difference is, you should put about 4.5 litres in at first fill, make sure the pump and filter are primed, the level will go down as pil lines fill and oil goes arond engine, but should remain at same level after that, and as Rick said, also go over those posts, but I think just about everything has been covered, but have been wrong before.
Roger
If you're going to run that track often, I'd do a Zen meditation on installing a 20 Lb low oil pressure warning light in a nice ez to see place. Any chance you have a couple of pictures from different angles to post of the oil tank and lines??
CREW for Jeff 89 Reynard or Flag & Comm.
A idoit light for oil pressure should be a must on all race cars, I use a 15lb one and don't worry much if it comes on at idle after a race, as long as I can get 40psi (fords) at rev's, as to high a oil pressure is as bad as to little, and it would be good to see some pic's before you box it up and after its in.
Roger
Well i have a 20 lb light in the car and added a mech gauge as well. i will try to get some pics up but i am not very good at linking pics to a forum. Tonight may be a problem as i am off to split the trans and change the input shaft seal. Then change the gear set. then reinstall the back half of the car, align, and off to the races on thurs.
I must be truly mental i am planning to run both the f2000, and IT grids this weekend. The heats are back to back and i have one pit guy . Not to mention that both cars are mine and i have'nt even looked at the IT car yet. "I ask myself. Am i addicted to racing or crazy? I reply...YES!!!!!!!
If anyone can teach me how to host pics that would be great.
Regards Jason
Hi Jas
I have to admit I don't know how to get pictures up here either, I've tried but failed!, but I think you should take another buddy with you, drink heaps of water, as you are going tobe running around like a blue arsed fly.
Good luck again
Roger
I would take more people if i could but no one was avalable. This is going to be a true grassroots thrash!!
As a side note :When i purchased the car last year i was under the impression that it had a 9:31 final drive. Therefore i checked the gearing and it should have been stellar. I always suspected that it was a 10:31 given how much everyone else was shifting compared to me. I was right so now i have adjusted the ratios (within the limits of what i had). We shall see how it will fair now! It should be a completely new car i also doubled the spring rate, and changed the ride hieght since i was last at Gimli. So many changes so little testing.
I hope in your thrash, when you stated that you were going to change gears, THEN put the gearbox back on the car, that you don't drop the splined sleeve (inside the diff.area) that couples the input and layshaft.
Keith
Thanks for brinnging back THAT NIGHMARE for me Keith!
Changing gears the night I was leaving for an event, I managed to let the coupler slide into the diff. Rather than pull everything needed to take the side cover off, I wrangled with a magnet and some surgical clamps and was able to retrieve the coupler and rotate it horizontal in a mere few hours.
Never again. I use the draw bolt and pull the input shaft towards the rear before fully removing the layshaft. On re-assembly, as soon as I can get a thread of the drawbolt started on the input shaft through the layshaft, I do, then I push the layshaft/housing the rest of the way on.
I'm sure there are other ways, but that's my insurance
Greg
Last edited by ghoneycutt; 08.23.07 at 8:55 AM.
SF86 Reynard FC
FRCCA http://www.formularacecarclubofamerica.com
Bill Scott Formula Car Series http://www.bsfcs.com
BMod Autocrosser http://www.nationalroadrally.com/
Why do you have to put a curse on me like that? It's like saying "break a leg" before an actor goes on stage. BTW i did'nt drop the bobbin. I just had the side cover off too change the input seal so i was well aware of the potential problem.
Cheers Jason
P.S. 1:30am both cars are loaded and i leave at 9:00. Two classes what was i thinking?
Well how did you do!
Roger
it was an event filled weekend punctuated by a leaking fuel tank at the tig weld.
How did the oil pressure issue go?
Roger
it seemed fine but this track doesn't have the same sweeping corner as race city.
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