How? 88 Reynard Clutch Slave

[Purple Frog]

The car has been sitting on stands since April...Yikes. I split the gearbox off today to FINALLY repair the trashed clutch slave cylinder. Fall should be coming, got to get ready to race.

Can you believe it??? Neither Craig Taylor nor Keith Averill were sitting in their offices on Saturday just waiting on my call...

What i can't remember is: How does one get the 'outer' cylinder out of the gearbox?

I'm hoping I don't have to pull the diff out just too be able to drive it out.

[Purple Frog]

Damn, I must want to race bad... It's 96 in the shade and 95% humidity. Oh yeah, we're having fun now! (If it were easy, everybody would be doing it...)

OK. The outer cylinder would in theory slide out of the case bringing the input shaft out with it. But, there is this small little problem of not having anything to get ahold of to pull it out. The adhesion of 16 year old seals and assorted combinations of RTV, etc. makes it want to stay in place. In retrospect if you had some way to put a slide hammer on the input shaft, you could then use the input shaft to pull it out. Or... you could take all the gears out of the rear, along with the lay shaft, and then use a lllooonnnggg drift to hammer on the input shaft to drive it out. There is a little issue of the input shaft coupling getting lost in that process. If you try either of these two 'shortcuts', my guess is that you would have to stand the gearbox on end with the bell facing up. Otherwise you will take the sideplate off to find the coupling.

So... I disassembled the left rear suspension and pulled the side plate and the diff. Then I cursed a lot until I got two nasty 'C' clips undone. Removed the input shaft. Then drove the outer cylinder out with a custom fabricated piece of soft wood. These English suckers that designed this mess must have been paid by the hour to do repairs.

I guess this whole little cute assembly is on it's way to Plano Texas come Monday for 'remanufacturing'.

[GR]

Cool to see you getting back into race mode

[rickjohnson356]

we have missed seeing you at the races this summer. thanks for the help at CMP. we finally have brakes that work when we want them to.

anything we can do to get you back on the road? (unfortunately we are tapped out- so no cash donations available)

[Mike Bingham]

i just replaced the 6 seals in on the Reynard . keith told me how to do it
1st- remove rear cover of Hewland
2. split the trans from the engine. tilt the trans so rear cover is down and bell is about 45 degree up..tires and wheels were left on. this took me 1 1/2 hours as i had quick disconnects on clutch and brake lines. caution - there is a coupler that connects the input shaft to the lay shaft.tjis is why you need to maintain the 45 degre tilt so coupler does not came off.

3. i fabricated a shaft puller, but averill said he once used a rope to pull the input shaft/slave cylinnder. if you do not have puller, try the rope trick. secure one end to the shaft, secure the other to a 2 x 4 spanning the bell housing..note-you should have removed the 3 bolts and two dowel pins that station the throwout bearing asembely..

as you take up slack on rope the whole aluminum assby and input will come out..you may have to gently tap one of the dowel throwout bearing assembly slots as you tighten up your puller..the whole thing will pop out

if i remember therr are two internal o rings on the throw out assmebly slider and three on the input shaft/housing assemebly..they are NOT inch..they are metric- avaerilll sells whole o ring kit for $ 20.00 and i keep a spare kit and the puller in the race trailer..

on re-assembly
remove oil filler tank and you can guide the input/slave assembly into place. one more thing...
once you replace this shaft/cylinger assmebly make sure to turn the input shaft and you can feel the rear gear turning ,,this is why you remove the rear cover,,,so connector is inplace and you are good to go.

if you really wanted too, you could have removed the nut holding this gear and tapped the layshaft that ould have mvoed the input shaft, and you could pop out the above assembely this way as well...but it is a bear to do this by your self..

i am out of office and can email photos of this monday if you send email address..
and my cell phone number too.

call anytime

mjb

[RacerDave51]

PF, I take it you won't make Nashville..

Mike, If you don't mind, I could use the photos when I do the slave on my 89.

DaveK
davidk@columbiatn.com

[Mike Bingham]

[SIZE=2]man!

this internet photo resizing is harder than Chinese algebra!
anyway
here are the pics
i am no photo guru
hope it helps
made puller out of 1/4-20 thread stock
piece of aluminum that i drilled 3/4 inch hole through
came in at 90 degrees and drilled two 1/4 inch htru holes so when i hack sawed the piece in two, could clamp around input shaft and secure with 2 each 1/4-20 farm bolts
did the tighten up thing and pulled the whole sleeve assembly out..easy.
took an hour to construct this and use the old drill press
well worth the effort..

mjb
[/SIZE]

[Purple Frog]

Mike,
Now that i have it apart, I see that the method Keith told you would be the easiest.
Thanks for the write up.

Oh well, at least i got to see what a 18 year old ring gear looks like.

Dave,
Working on the slave cylinder is something you may never have to do. It appears this one has 18 year old seals.

No, no intentions of going to Nashville. Although it has been said it would qualify me for the SIC and a possible SARRC Championship, it just isn't a big magnet for me at this point.

[RacerDave51]

MikeA, that's good to know. I almost took the slave apart when I had the motor out but since the T-box had been redone by the prev owner I decided to skip it this time. You see, I have the propensity of taking unbroken things and making them broken while trying to fix them up...

Thanks all--good photos MikeB

[Purple Frog]

The following is a shameless plug for Craig Taylor:

I sent Craig the semi-molten glob of used Reynard slave cylinder assembly and today I received in return a beautiful reconstructed better-than-new assembly. He had his boys tungsten coat the piston, size it correctly, machine a new bearing carrier, reassemble the thing, and ship it back. Jiffy-like. Fair price.

It should easily last through another 18 years or more of vintage racing.

Support Apexspeed advertisers.

[Lee Racing 8]

FROGGY,
I can't wait to see you at Topeka, really miss seeing you at the track and frognapping Fergie. Get that baby back together, you know I'm always available for some test runs.

[rickb99]

We are about to go for a slave cylinder rebuild shortly on a Reynard 89SF. Is the above the correct way to do it or was something changed from 88 to 89? Also no photos above. If they still exist, could somebody E-mail them to RJB99@AOL.COM ?

[Mike Bingham]

i guess when you delete Jpegs due to your size allotment on this forum, you loose the post as well..pls see above post in FC General Discussion

[rickb99]

Thanks so much Mike. Got them and they are a terrific help.