FF/Trailer Question

[Tim Webb]

I just took delivery of a new 20' enclosed trailer with beaver tail.

I will be taking possession of a DB-6 in a month or so. I need to use the trailer to pick up the DB-6.

I plan on using E-track to hold the DB-6 in place. I've got 20' of E-track in 4 5' pieces.

Since I don't have car I cannot put the car in the trailer to see where the e-track needs to be mounted, and since I need to have the E-track in the trailer to go pick up the car, I need some of your colective wisdon as to the mounting location for the e-track. Any advice?

I'll be carrying the normal crap to the track, rolling tool chest, awning, spare wheels....

[Brian]

With a 20 ft trailer I would put the car in backwards with the rear wheels just ahead of the trailer wheel boxes, and put the stuff in the front, keeping track so that the nose doesn't get too heavy. I'd put the etrack on the track width of the car and use over the tire straps, four of them.

I also put etrack on the walls and strap stuff to the walls with it. I have tire racks to keep the spares off the floor. I put my tool chest and heavy spares as close to the trailer wheels as I can, if possible. I do as much to keep hitch weight sane as possible. You can put bins of stuff beside the car between the wheels and it stays there real nice...

Brian

[PCalhoun]

Tim,
No need to put the car in backwards, but do mount the e-track to match the track width of the car. Then tie the car down by going over the top of the tires w/ 2" ratcheting tie down straps. A piece of old carpet between the tire and ratchet is helpful to not cut into the tire.

When mounting the E-Track be sure to have backing plates on the backside too & proper fasteners. Don't think you're going to hold down a car w/ E-Track mounted, on top of plywood, w/ self tapping screws holding the track down.

You should of asked me last week on the phone.

Regards,
Peter Calhoun
Pace American, Inc.

[Tim Webb]

My real concern is the location of the e-track fore and aft. I have the track width and will be using propper fasteners and backing plate. It's more a question of how to use the 4 5' sections in such a way that I can move the car up and back to adjust the trailer's tongue weight while still keeping the car on the e-track.

Thanks for the input.

[Garey Guzman]

I have been towing a DB6 for a couple of years now and I actually put it as far back in the trailer as possible. I only put tie down straps over the rear tires. I'm not sure if they are 2 or 3" wide but they are rated at several thousand pounds each. As Peter said, I use a piece of carpet between the ratchet and tire. I also put small tool boxes and portable air compressor in the back of the trailer. Tire racks are also in the back. The cabinets, workbench and spares are in the front. So far, this has worked fine, including moving from SoCal to TN, a 2100 mile trip.

The limiting factor for how far my car will go back is the collector pipe. I have the FC style tail on my FF DB6, not the longer DB1 style. I could measure mine for you but there are some differences between headers and collectors.

[stephen wilson]

Like Gary, I put mine just far enough to clear the full exhaust. Which on my Club Ford puts the rear tire an inch or three forward of the plywood seam for the beavertail section.

[Tim Webb]

That's what i was looking for. Thanks. That gives me a good idea of where to put the e-track.

Thanks for the response.

Tim

[Brian]

Last year I towed down to Savannah in horrible high winds. The trailer was rocked all over the place. I had the car tied down to E-track with straps over three wheels, and all three broke loose from the E-track. Now, I was using what I later determined where Chinese E-track clips, not genuine, but they tore off the E-track and actually damaged the E-track when they did. So, in the interests of helping the community, I'm telling the story...

The moral of the story is probably tie down over all four tires, don't drive for 15 hours in 50 mph gusty winds, and use genuine or at least high quality E-track clips! On the return trip I tied down fore and aft, rather than over the tires, but I may try that method again. I did have a wedge and a block of wood that kept the car from rolling around and getting damaged, but that was frankly luck, not planning. Who plans that the broom in the trailer will fall down and cleverly wedge itself under a front tire? The door hinges of the rear door of the trailer actually cracked, the box was being rocked so hard by the wind.

Brian

[John Robinson II]

To be safe and give yourself some room, place the rear axle just behind the rear axle. Also I use tow wheels with a strap going forward and aft. I place the straps on the same spoke and it stops them from turning. The only time it came loose is when the straps did not overlap. I spent a little more and ran the etrack almost the full length of the floor at the correct track. Word of warning, tow tires have a different track then the race tires. On mine the centerline of the wheel is several inches outside the race wheel.

John

[steve zemke]

I imagine E track is fine 99.99% of the time we are towing our cars. So is only tying down one axle, or diaogonally opposite wheels. But I want all of you to visualize your trailer laying on its side. You have spent in the mid five figure range to get your car into the trailer, and I for one, am not going to trust E track, Chinese or American to secure my car. It is fine on the walls, for gas cans, jacks etc. I believe the origin of E track is in the air cargo industry. I have yet to see a car hauler leave any GM assmbly plant with the cars secured with E track, or a car hauler show up at one of my son in laws five dealerships, both foreign and domestic, with their loads secured to E track.
Whatever you use to secure the car, make sure the bolts go through the frame, and just not through the plywood floor. There are lots of people who make, and sell, real tie down equipment, some of them advertisers here. I would call them ,and get their recomendations. Mine tie down points would be heavy duty flush mounted D rings, two for each wheel, and a good set of tie down straps, one for each wheel. Perferably the type that cradle the tire on each side with a central strap in the middle. Cheap insurance.

[BC]

What do you guy think of these?
http://www.pitposse.com/noname75.html

I was thinking of recessing them within the plywood (2x wheel) on a steel angle between the frame members.

[-pru-]

http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21238

[steve zemke]

BC
Looks like 8 of them would have a total rating, at 90 degrees, of 16,00lbs. Sounds like a lot, but you need to do the math for your application. Again, make sure the anchor points are tied into the frame. Good Luck

[TimW]

Tim

So, who's DB6 was it? Has a new one from a barn surfaced or is it one we've seen here?

Tim