Changing from clip style master link to a riveted style. What's the proper way to mushroom the pins?
Thanks,
Neil
Changing from clip style master link to a riveted style. What's the proper way to mushroom the pins?
Thanks,
Neil
With the rivit master link tool. The one we use is Motion Pro Chain Riviting Tool
I recently purchased a Motion Pro tool for MC use on my RZ350 w/520 chain. The body of the tool deformed significantly with the first rivet removed and broke the pin. I ground the next rivet and it was removed all right, but it does not seem to be setting rivets properly. I have not gotten around to getting this straightened out due to racing activities being the priority. Be careful and talk to some bike people. Competition Accessories, where I purchased the tool, would not replace it, but gave me the phone number of Motion Pro in California. This might have been a quality control glitch. E-mail me at chambersfw "at" yahoo "dot" com for details.
- Frank C
Motion Pro offers a couple of different tools. Spend the money and get the larger proffessional version that is much beefier than the standard version they offer.
Hey Guys, Since you have to disconnect the axle from the diff to change the sprocket anyway, it is just as easy to lay your chain on an anvil or other solid & heavy object & use the point of a stubby ended center punch to swage the master link pins. The link side piece that slides on over the pins is a close tollerance, tight fit on the pins & will stay there once you tap it in place. To remove a link I just grind the pin ends down & drive out the pins with a proper size pin punch while the chain is supported on the top of a vise with the jaws adjusted slightly wider than the pin diameter. I've used my chain assemble using this method all season (8 races) with no problems.
Scott Woodruff
83 RT5 Ralt/Scooteria Suzuki Formula S
(former) F440/F5/FF/FC/FA
65 FFR Cobra Roadster 4.6 DOHC
The Motion Pro tool that I had problems with is the one shown in David's link (~$82 - his link has the price of the replacement removal pins), and the frame deformed about 10 or 15 degrees. The comments from the vendor and some differences between web descriptions (more cautious) and the instructions packaged with it suggest there have been some problems. Talk to a good bike shop about it or alternatives. For your applications, you don't have to set the rivets in place, as noted by Scott.
- Frank C
Yes, I used the heavier duty version of the Motion-Pro tool. It is also 10 times easier to do this off the car (which is what we do). I just keep 3 different chain lenghs and swap in the chain for he desired sprocket size. Through trail and error I have learned which chain lenghs work with what sprocket ranges (and the adjustment range of my rear diff carrier).
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