Fire system removal

[TimW]

Is there any precautions that need to be done when disconnecting and removing the firesystem from the car? Am undergoing a teardown on a new (to me) car and would prefer to not inadvertantly discharge the thing in my garage. There is a pin tyraped to the top of the canister, but not inserted anywhere. I think this is because its in its state ready for use; is there any sequence required for removing the actuation cable and inserting that pin to disconnect & store safely?

picture here:



Thanks in advance.

[Roland Johnson]

DO NOT remove the cable without inserting the pin! You have a pull to discharge system. There is another set of holes above the cable. You must insert the pin through those holes. If you cannot get the pin in you can unscrew the discharge system from the top of the bottle. I usually put a point on the pin, then it will go in better. You will then find a small allen screw that holds the outer cable in.

[TimW]

Thanks for your help. Is this correct? Pin is inserted 9/16" deep. Wear marks on the pin makes me think this is as far as it should go, but would appreciate an experienced opinion.

[Roland Johnson]

The pin should go all the way in. If you unclamp the bottle you should see that the pin hole continues through. Did you put a point on the pin to make this process easier? You can remove the discharge line to make this easier. If you can't get it all the way through, I would unscrew the bottle. Feel free to call if I can be of help. 619-294-7012

[TimW]

whew, glad I asked. thanks again for the help.

voila!

[TimW]

Is the set screw for the cable metric?

[Jerry B.]

SAE...and it might b in there pretty tight, either doo to corrosion or ....

The pin on the chain lanyard is called a shipping pin. Its used for what your doing...and shipping. Once you put the cable core back in the head, remove the shipping pin and leave it removed.

tips....the cable core should go thru the bottle head so its just visible on the other side with the sheath fully inserted in the head, the set scru snugged down to prevent sheath movement, and the cable handle pushed all the way in. Then you know your "safe' and can remove the shipping pin. But when u have the bottle out, make sure the pull cable moves easily and has no corrosion/dirt etc and you might use a little vaseline on the core so it moves easily/prevents corrosion.

Weigh your bottle on a gram or postage scale and compare the weight to a new bottle or the new weight on the tag, if its there. Note the date and weight so you can keep a log every six races or so. Halon loss is what your after here.

I noticed you have aluminum tubing and brass B nuts with probably compression type fittings. Ine of the things you should do when nut and bolting the car is check the tension on these B nuts and the integrity of each fitting and no "movement " of the line in the fitting. have fun...

[Murray]

The aluminum and brass is the standard set-up that comes from Fire Bottle as the kit. I have had that system in my old Datsun for 6 years and have found no loosening of the fittings. Good information from "Earthman".

[TimW]

Thanks for your help everyone. Was able to remove it without coating the garage floor. Thanks also for the advice in reinstalling/maintaining.

[trout roberts]

Tim:

While you have the time, disconnect the bottle from the actuating head and blow some compressed air through the lines and nozzles. I do annual techs in the NW and we have had occurrences where the lines were packed with dust, cobwebs, etc. to the extent that when the fire system was actuated, nothing happened. Not a good situation! If possible, blow the lines out before your first on-track excursion each season...cheap insurance that when needed it'll work properly.