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  1. #1
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    Default FV project parts

    Recently purchased a Zink chassis that I am planning to use for autocross. I am in the process of tearing down for rebuild and I need help with suggestions and sources for F/R shocks, steering wheel, and pedal set.
    Appreciate any help and guidance.
    Thanks

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    BLS

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    Can't help with the rear shocks, someone will. For the front you could use VW bus steering stabilizers. It's what a lot of us used for road racing back in the 70's before the high priced shock showed up.

    Keep your eye on the open classifieds section. Small diameter steering wheels in good shape show up pretty frequently at decent prices. Do you have a steering shaft? Easy to make if not using 5/8 CM (or mild steel) tubing.

    Pedal set - What are you starting with? If you have the original Zink set that should be fine. If you have nothing just fabricate a set per your own design or get someone to do it for you, either copying the original set or just build from scratch. It's really not difficult. Also, some FV's used the original VW bug pedal set IIRC.

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLS View Post
    Can't help with the rear shocks, someone will. For the front you could use VW bus steering stabilizers. It's what a lot of us used for road racing back in the 70's before the high priced shock showed up.

    Keep your eye on the open classifieds section. Small diameter steering wheels in good shape show up pretty frequently at decent prices. Do you have a steering shaft? Easy to make if not using 5/8 CM (or mild steel) tubing.

    Pedal set - What are you starting with? If you have the original Zink set that should be fine. If you have nothing just fabricate a set per your own design or get someone to do it for you, either copying the original set or just build from scratch. It's really not difficult. Also, some FV's used the original VW bug pedal set IIRC.
    Great information, thanks.
    I have the steering shaft and is in good shape, so I am keeping it. For the steering, the current one is too small and for a lock-to-lock is almost 2 turns, so is hard with the smaller diameter.
    I still have the original (?) set of pedals but rusty. If I can, I want to use the original; just checking in advance.
    I will check on the steering stabilizer.
    Thanks!

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    I don't know if it's appropriate for Autocross, but almost everyone uses a small diameter wheel in FV, 10 inches is fairly common.

    If it is hard to turn I'd guess you have other issues.

    I'd certainly just clean up the original set of pedals.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLS View Post
    I don't know if it's appropriate for Autocross, but almost everyone uses a small diameter wheel in FV, 10 inches is fairly common.

    If it is hard to turn I'd guess you have other issues.

    I'd certainly just clean up the original set of pedals.
    I am planning on taking the pedal cluster apart (brake/clutch/accelerator), clean and reassemble and see how it works. Also have to move them closer as I am only 5’-5”.
    The steering is not hard to turn, but it looks like (I need to check properly) is almost 2 full turns lock to lock. My logic is a bigger diameter steering, less turns.

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    Quote Originally Posted by For fun View Post
    My logic is a bigger diameter steering, less turns.
    Nope. Sorry. Turns are turns. A smaller steering wheel just means a little less leverage & a little more forearm.
    If you want more turn for less input, extend the pitman arm length or shorten the pick up arms on the spindles (a.k.a. quicksteering).
    Glenn

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  9. #7
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    The bus steering dampers have exactly the same bump/rebound curve... The bump curve is very close to what a black Penske FV shock is, but the rebound is different

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    Quote Originally Posted by grapefarmeral View Post
    The bus steering dampers have exactly the same bump/rebound curve... The bump curve is very close to what a black Penske FV shock is, but the rebound is different
    Thanks
    Great information

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    Quote Originally Posted by For fun View Post
    I am planning on taking the pedal cluster apart (brake/clutch/accelerator), clean and reassemble and see how it works. Also have to move them closer as I am only 5’-5”.
    The steering is not hard to turn, but it looks like (I need to check properly) is almost 2 full turns lock to lock. My logic is a bigger diameter steering, less turns.
    It was very common to make an extension for the steering arm to speed the steering up. Being short, will make this easy. I am 6' 1" tall and to speed the steering up on my Zink required that I make a special mount for the steering box that moved the box forward of the axle beam.

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    As noted, the turns don't change for wheel diameter. Also as mentioned, you can extend the steering arm. Among others, EMPI makes one. https://empius.com/products/quick-steer-kit-thru-5-68/

    That will make the turning effort increase quite a bit.
    Also, it's not likely you will ever need more than a half to 3/4 turn of the wheel in actual use. The 2 turn lock to lock is really only for loading and unloading and moving around the paddock.

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  14. #11
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    "Also have to move them closer as I am only 5’-5”."

    The perfect FV driver then

    I have the opposite issue. IIRC, the closest standard Zink pedal adjustment should get it close enough for you. If not it's easy to add what you need.

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