Alexis FF Front Upper Ball Joints

[Robert J. Alder]

Anyone familiar with the Upper A-arm ball joint on my 1968 Russell-Alexis FF? They are weird little buggers.



The uprights are Triumph variety, but the upper ball joints have a weird threaded circular retaining ring on top that holds the unit into the A-arm. It was then Peened into a couple of divots. Sixty years have rendered the rings un-movable. A small cold chisel was tje solution to cut the retaining ring out of the way, but....it is going to take a bearing press, some WD-40 and probably some heat to push the unit down and out of the a-arm. Grrrr.

But the immediate problem is sourcing replacements. Anyone know where to get a couple of these babies?

Thanks,
Bob Alder
Call if easier 303-981-6364

[BorkRacing]

On Crossle series cars the ball joint is replaced with a heim and a bolt.
You may be able to source a spherical bearing that will fit and run a bolt throught it.

Robby

[Ralph Z.]

Bob, here is an older photo of my '68 Alexis MK14. As you can see, we have a different solution.

[Robert J. Alder]

Robby: thanks for the suggestion of a spherical bearing. I haven't pressed out the old one yet, but doubt the receptical has groves for the needed CirClips to retain a spherical bearing. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Ralph: Yes a different (Better!!!) setup on yours. But it would mean fabricating two new A-Arms, a last resort.

[Marty Nygard]

Before you press out the old ball joints, you might want to consider that they could be threaded in (same threads as the retainer).
M

[Robert J. Alder]

Yikes. Hope not. Great observation. I'll take care, however after getting the A-Arm off the car to better work on removing it. Heat and a monkey wrench will test for threads before just pressing it. Thanks.

[tlracer]

The 6 notches in the top make me wonder if they're designed to be adjustable for wear and/or pre-load?

[John Nesbitt]

The 6 notches in the top make me wonder if they're designed to be adjustable for wear and/or pre-load?

Or, as Marty suggested, the piece is threaded, and the notches are there to accommodate tightening/loosening?

[BorkRacing]

Try looking in an old NAPA catalog. They have pictures of ball joints for various applications.
If there are no snap rings then i'd suspect it is threaded.

Robby

[Earley Motorsports]

Have look through the Moss Motors online catalog. You might just find them there.

[LFFR]

Bob,

That ring looks like it staked @ 5:00 position. I can't zoom in enough to tell for sure.

Pour through the Quinton Hazell catalog. It has to be British, from the 60's, easily available and cheap:
https://www.qhwebcat.com/en/2462-ball-joint

John Mihalich, Jr.

[Steve Davis]

I'll bet that cap has an internal thread to the top of the bearing shaft. You've broken the 'peen', so soak it for a day or 2 in Kroil or PB Blaster then try a flat punch on the edges of those indentations. If you haven't, you could try the punch first lightly. It MIGHT just come right loose for you. Once you see what's inside, you'll be better prepared to go find a replacement. It sure looks to me like there is (was) a special tool for tightening and loosening that cap - probably for setting the preload (or 'just none') on the top of the ball shaft.
My best guess. Oh.. and best guess that it would be RIGHT HAND thread.. but also consider the possibility that it could be LEFT HAND... Try both ways incrementing up the force till it starts to move .. or doesn't. If the joint is truly toast and you have a mig welder, you could also tack a tab onto the cap to give yourself something torque on.

Steve, FV

[Robert J. Alder]

The 6 notches in the top make me wonder if they're designed to be adjustable for wear and/or pre-load?

Might be. But.....of no consequence after 50 years (circa '68 build). I tried rotating thinking I could loosen/remove the retainers to remove/replace the whole unit. Won't budge. Interesting idea. They may well have been designed to "adjust" but moot now.

[Robert J. Alder]

If the joint is truly toast and you have a mig welder, you could also tack a tab onto the cap to give yourself something torque on. Steve, FV

I was able to buzz of the peens so they weren't holding things up. Great idea for getting leverage to turn after soaking.

[Robert J. Alder]

Problem solved! Thanks to input from Andy Antipas (Titan guru) and Nathan Down (with Thomas Vintage Racing shop and guru on all things British). Both said to contact Peter (and James) Denty's shop in England.

Per James, "They were also a common fixture on a lot of Brabham’s, McLaren’s, GRD etc…and they are referred to as Thompson joints." And he has them in stock no less! Tapered pins not shown, but he also has those to fit different uprights.

Life is good.

[Steve Davis]

Wow .. COOL!! "REPLACEABLE PARTS" inside ball joint. What'll they come up with next ??

And .. did they say HOW you are supposed to take it apart?

Steve, FV80

[Robert J. Alder]

On a 60 year old unit which has NEVER been apart, no doubt lots of penetrating oil, heat and a bearing press with a little grinding and small cut off wheel thrown in.

[tlracer]

Don't forget the most important tool of all for jobs like this...the strong vocabulary!!