2007 Stohr Chimneys or...cooling advise

[cjahn]

Howdy,

I have a 2k7 Stohr FB. Orig bodywork. Some holes drilled in to the lower pod on the exit of the rad but only 3 holes around 2.5" in diameter. Engine is a 2006 GSXR 1000. Nothing fancy. Stock.

It was a nice sunny and 75 degree day (not hot by any means) and the car ran up to 220 water, 265 oil in just a few laps if I was using a 11k redline. If I kept it at 9k I could stay around 200.

I am looking for Stohr Chimneys (not sure if that is the right term) but something to aid in the cooling of my FB. Stohr/Dauntless doesn't have the molds or parts. I will take anything and even make my own if necessary or adjust the car if required.

No point in racing if I have to go at 50% to keep the car from overheating.... Any input, advise, assistance appreciated.


Thx!
Cj

ctjahn@courtneyjahn.com
920-904-6099

[kiwimanz]

Man that's some high temps for that kind of ambient temp.
Has the car always had a cooling problem?
Are you running a thermostat in the engine?
Are you running the stock Gixxer water pump?
What type of rad are you using single / double row?

Maybe some will argue, but I never thought the "chimney's" looked to be that effective.

Just looking to get a base line on the prob first
Cheers
Linz

[ghickman]

Howdy,

I have a 2k7 Stohr FB. Orig bodywork. Some holes drilled in to the lower pod on the exit of the rad but only 3 holes around 2.5" in diameter. Engine is a 2006 GSXR 1000. Nothing fancy. Stock.

It was a nice sunny and 75 degree day (not hot by any means) and the car ran up to 220 water, 265 oil in just a few laps if I was using a 11k redline. If I kept it at 9k I could stay around 200.

I am looking for Stohr Chimneys (not sure if that is the right term) but something to aid in the cooling of my FB. Stohr/Dauntless doesn't have the molds or parts. I will take anything and even make my own if necessary or adjust the car if required.

No point in racing if I have to go at 50% to keep the car from overheating.... Any input, advise, assistance appreciated.


Thx!
Cj

ctjahn@courtneyjahn.com
920-904-6099

Chimneys aren't going to help your overheating. If you are seeing 265 Oil Temp at 75 ambient I would highly recommend not running the car again till you address the problem, engine won't last.

I'm fairly certain that this was a universal problem with all the Stohr FB with the original bodywork.

As I recall you can do surgery to some of the duct work on the exit side of the coolers that will help. I know later when the GEN 2 bodywork came out they addressed the overheating issues hence the reason most of the them were converted to GEN 2 bodies.

I would suggest contacting JESSE BRITSON at BRD in Portland Oregon. He most likely knows more about the Stohr cars than anyone. He developed his own bodywork that is far superior to anything Stohr ever did and it looks better also. He may know what tricks can be done to improve the cooling without doing a re-body.

Perhaps this thread should be moved to the FB General Discussion

[cjahn]

Man that's some high temps for that kind of ambient temp.
Has the car always had a cooling problem?
Are you running a thermostat in the engine?
Are you running the stock Gixxer water pump?
What type of rad are you using single / double row?

Maybe some will argue, but I never thought the "chimney's" looked to be that effective.

Just looking to get a base line on the prob first
Cheers
Linz

Thanks for the reply.

Car is new to me in the last couple months. Don't know if there is a thermostat in the motor. Where do I look? Should it have one? Car goes from cold to 180 in a lap!

Stock Gxsr water pump (I think)

Double row rad..

Just bought the car and working out the issues with an old Gen1 FB.

Cj

[cjahn]

Chimneys aren't going to help your overheating. If you are seeing 265 Oil Temp at 75 ambient I would highly recommend not running the car again till you address the problem, engine won't last.

I'm fairly certain that this was a universal problem with all the Stohr FB with the original bodywork.

As I recall you can do surgery to some of the duct work on the exit side of the coolers that will help. I know later when the GEN 2 bodywork came out they addressed the overheating issues hence the reason most of the them were converted to GEN 2 bodies.

I would suggest contacting JESSE BRITSON at BRD in Portland Oregon. He most likely knows more about the Stohr cars than anyone. He developed his own bodywork that is far superior to anything Stohr ever did and it looks better also. He may know what tricks can be done to improve the cooling without doing a re-body.

Perhaps this thread should be moved to the FB General Discussion

Thanks!

I heard from another person that the chimneys helped another car similar to mine (runs in the same crowd).

I will contact BRD.

Thx
Cj

[kiwimanz]

Thanks for the reply.

Car is new to me in the last couple months. Don't know if there is a thermostat in the motor. Where do I look? Should it have one? Car goes from cold to 180 in a lap!

Stock Gxsr water pump (I think)

Double row rad..

Just bought the car and working out the issues with an old Gen1 FB.

Cj

The thermostat is not necessary, the stock pump works fine if the coolant lines are not too long.
The BRD body work has slots cut into them to exhaust hot air I think.
Any way it did seem like the cooling wasn't a big issue after that.
Good luck...
Linz

[glenn cooper]

I had an even worse problem with temps at Mid Ohio Majors last month, and only got it sorted for the Sat rain race...
The front wing has a center flap, and the angle was quite high on IT, and the left and right side winglets.
This kept enough air out of the sidepods by not allowing the air to split at the keel and dump into each sidepod.
Removing the center flap cured it.
I did not have time to play with lowering it.

PS - You should be at 180-ish on water when you take to the track.
Getting the wter temp up will bring the oil temp up, hence getting the water to 180.

GC

[peteytoo]

Thanks!

I heard from another person that the chimneys helped another car similar to mine (runs in the same crowd).

I will contact BRD.

Thx
Cj

CJ:

I have been through this on my 07 Stohr - if this remains unresolved, let me know and I'll PM my phone number so I can relay verbally - much to much information to type.

Pete

[cjahn]

CJ:

I have been through this on my 07 Stohr - if this remains unresolved, let me know and I'll PM my phone number so I can relay verbally - much to much information to type.

Pete

Much appreciated. Please email your contact info if possible.
thx!!!!
Cj

[Benno88]

Since replacing the radiator and radiator cap (we had a dodgy one) on my 07 Stohr we havent had a single problem with overheating and we are running in Western Australia. Hottest ambient temp we have practiced in so far is 44 deg celsius which is over 110 farenheight. So no problems with the older body dissipating heat from over here. and we also block off over 50% of our oil cooler all the time because we cant get the oil temp hot enough otherwise...

[cjahn]

Since replacing the radiator and radiator cap (we had a dodgy one) on my 07 Stohr we havent had a single problem with overheating and we are running in Western Australia. Hottest ambient temp we have practiced in so far is 44 deg celsius which is over 110 farenheight. So no problems with the older body dissipating heat from over here. and we also block off over 50% of our oil cooler all the time because we cant get the oil temp hot enough otherwise...

Thanks! I did get a new rad cap for good measure. The old one on the car albeit new was low pressure. I intend on closing the gaps around the rads too in the coming weekends and looking at air flow. Additionally, I think I might be running WAY too much oil (cant see it in the sight glass) and it was indicated that it could cause overheating issues as well. I am no expert but I am not sure. Regardless we will fill it to the proper level before the next event.

thx again everyone!
cj